Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

The bypass presents a dummy load (which always seems a bit wasteful to me), and is only needed when you are using the dimming function and even then only if you dim the bulbs down to the minimum light level. Without the bypass they might flicker.

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So you think my bank at around 20W, no dimming wanted, non-dimmable bulbs will be ok without a bypass and work fine with the 212 as on/off?

I’m just worried on the “try and see”, i.e. if the bulbs turn off completely is that enough as an ok? No risk electrically then?


It should work just fine. I’d be interested to hear what problems @danmarson is having?

The only thing to be wary of is that you get a UK/EU spec device. If you get a US one (they are often a bit cheaper on eBay) it won’t work with a UK ST hub. (I can see from the label that this isn’t Dan’s problem).

@PailOckenden My current problems are that the dumb switch only seems to turn the light off some of the time, and needs maybe 3 or 4 throws to actually turn the light off.

Also the device was originally added onto ST as a “Home Energy Meter” so I have not yet managed to get the light working through ST either.

The intermittent thing sounds like an RF problem. Have you got another mains powered z-wave device (which should act as a repeater) that you can put half way between your st hub and the light switch?

Ot can you position the fibaro antenna wire differently?

What device handler should you change it to after its detected by ST in the IDE also?

Is there a procedure in the thread on how exactly to add it and set it up? Device handler in IDE etc?


Interesting, I’ll have a move around with the antenna tomorrow, The Dimmer is in the room above the ST Hub so I wouldn’t have thought it would be a problem. Happy to try anything!

In the IDE I changed the device type to Fibaro Dimmer, and it appears correctly in the iOS app, but still not behaving correctly at the bulb.


@R2D2 I have this working now!

I couldn’t sleep on this and wouldn’t let it beat me.

The problem seemed to be with the device type itself.

@PailOckenden I did move the antenna around within the backbox, but there is limited space in there, so you can only do so much. The device was getting discovered easily so it must be okay.

I read back through this thread and had a look at @rmbhatia device type code, started using this and boom, dumb switch and ST app working as expected.

I made a few changes to the tiles like removing the dimmer slider from view, as I don’t need it.

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Can you elaborate please, still learning ST. Which post about the code in here please?

So you had to publish some code in the IDE or something. Sorry for noob questions but I’m not a coder so everything I look on here to help!!

Great to see you got it working though. Hopefully can iron out so mine works straight away!!

Have you had a chance to look at the custom code FAQ yet? It might give you a good overview of how the process works for any device, not just this one.

Would the Fibaro FGD-212 be ok if I installed it this way…

Rather than getting a bigger back box as I have a stud wall, I removed the back box and where it’s mounted I could “shove” it above the back box, extend the required wires with “choccy” block and poke what’s required back into the back box.

Would it still be able to communicate with the ST hub like this on another floor?

I can’t fit a bigger back box in here with the way the stud wall is and strut across to fix the back box to.


My understanding is that this can compromise fire safety.

Instead, there are two good options.

One) find a different place on the circuit to put the relay. This is often at the ceiling rose. You may have more space to work with there.

Two) use a box extender that extends the box forward rather than back. These can be made to look quite nice with the appropriate face plate. These are often listed as a “surface mount pattress box” or as an “extension collar.” They come in a variety of colors and materials, as well as different depths. Don’t get a metal one, or you won’t be able to get signal through.

Oh don’t like the sound of this, why is it a fire hazard? Does it have to be in a metal box?

Extending out is a no go afraid, they are flush mounted to start with, where this switch is also in the middle of a wall with nothing but this, so even if did extend out it would be an eye sore.

I can’t access the ceiling rose, I did have an AeoTec relay that required a neutral and tried but it’s all hidden so sent back, heard this didn’t need a neutral so was happy…until now…

What’s the risk, or requirements, maybe another small box if I can access stud wall?

You could install the fibaro in the stud wall void. but it should be put into a box of some kind. It might fit in a Choc box.
With sheathed cable between them.

The main proper constraint is that the connections on it need to be enclosed, and you can’t have unprotected insulated conductors between them. Ie sheathed etc.

To roughly some. Unless its a multi dwelling unit with a compartmented escape route the other side. fire propagation reg’s through stud wall don’t apply.

Putting it in a box also resolves any other issues. Ie fire risk due to exposed connections that could be bridged. etc

It can go in a plastic box. which is better due to z-wave signal.

You could also cut the noggin out deeper that the box is fitted to. to allow a deeper box.

Or if it is just a really small bit of timber knock it out the way and fit a dry line box.

If the timber runs vertically, that it is fitted to. best not to cut it without someone looking at it.
generally, horizontal pieces are not that important once all the plasterboards are fixed to the wall. Unless its on a plasterboard joint, which is unlikely at switch height.

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I wouldn’t put uninsulated wires between them no, I’ll be using some extra twin and earth, and sheathing on the earth.

This is my house, it’s just the way the wall is, this room is backed onto the hall and it’s a hollow plasterboard wall.

The timer runs horizontally, but that’s what the back box is fixed to and it’s a flush wall switch.

So basically it has to be enclosed inside a box of some sorts, either the original back box, or another box. Why though if the cables to/from it are all proper size, insulated etc?


They won’t be were they terminate into the fibaro unit, you’ll have to strip the sheath back.
And the terminals are exposed.
Any box will do. That’s not flammable. It should just be enclosed.

Drilling the timber out with a spade bit so you can fit a deeper box. Is probably the better way to go about it. Better for maintenance etc. going forward. The timber will most likely just be a noggin with very little structural benefit.

Got this reply from vesternet support about putting it in a stud wall, no box…

“You don’t have to install the Dimmer module in the back box. You can install it in the stud partition. so long as you do this safely and make sure the wires are secure and can’t be touched easily then it will be fine”

However this from Fibaro support…

“Fibaro Dimmer 2 should be installed in wall switch boxes of dimensions allowing for installation, conforming to provisions of applicable regulations.
Check the national regulations for this type of installation.”

@JDRoberts, @John_Crighton: gentlemen, I managed to solve the problem and you can now react to double, triple taps, S1 and S2 taps of Fibaro. Check it out here: Fibaro Dimmer Double Click Action


Not sure if this is the right place but here goes.
I have just installed one of these but because of the wiring for my kitchen unit lights, I have had to wire it up so that when the light switch for the unit lights is turned on, it supplies the power which then powers up the Fibaro dimmer.
Not ideal but it seems to work OK.
What i want it to do is when the power is provided to the dimmer that it goes into an ON state and turns the lights on and leaves them on.
At present it turns the lights on and they flashe while it associates again and then turn the lights off.
Hope this all makes sense.