Kinda what I figured…
Each of my two Schlage locks have several z-wave light switches (not z-wave plus) near them that are clustered within inches of each other or sharing the same gang box. I Recently replaced one of the switches near my front door lock with a z-wave plus switch (GE/Jasco brand) and I assume this will beam, etc. I’ve done many a z-wave repairs since but I still get missed events with this lock. Is it possible the lock communication is routing through one or more of the non-plus switches that are just as close to the lock and practically in the same location as the plus switch? If so, is there any way to ‘force’ the routing through the plus switch?
It’s possible but the only way to tell is to add a secondary controller stick which can read the routing tables. The tables are updated automatically. The best way to figure it out would be to start removing devices and do a Z-Wave repair to update the tables and see which one was causing the issue. It also helps to reboot the hub and internet router sometimes.
Sorry to reply to this old thread, but it’s relevant I guess so I’d rather not clutter the forum with another similar post.
When I first installed it I read this thread, and even looked up my GE switch that was next to it to see if it supports beaming.
Fast forward two months and I’m suffering from bad battery life so I look again at my devices.
The switch is a GE 12722 (Non-Plus, but does support beaming). Would I be better served to replace it with a Zwave Plus 14291?
I think that’s going to be the case, but want to verify before throwing more money down the hole.
You’ll get better range from a Z wave plus device, so it’s almost always a good idea to upgrade if you can afford it.
I can. I just have a bad habit of throwing money at a problem. Lol
I do see RBoy says to avoid the older ge switches too.
There are lots of good reasons to upgrade to Z-Wave plus from better coverage, to improved communications for certain types of transactions like pairing and broadcasts etc. Plus as you pointed out some of the older GE switches (non plus) start giving trouble and can impact the mesh response times. It may not solve your battery issues, a repeater gives a small boost to the long term battery life in our tests here. If you’re seeing a big drain (like in days/weeks) then it may be related to the a bad module/hardware. But never hurts to get the plus repeater as it’ll only do good things for your mesh.
Thanks. I’m gonna replace it tomorrow.
Fwiw, a good set of batteries nets me about a month with 2-4 cycles a day. No binding of the mechanism. Schalge tech support told me to make sure I had a beaming repeater, so I revisited the discussion.
I have a feeling they’ve been reading this topic
Hey guys, I’ve been scouring these forums for a solution and haven’t quite figured things out. I bought a schlage camelot door lock about 3 years ago and have always had trouble with unresponsiveness to a point I gave up…until recently.
I bought the aeotec range extender 7 and it doesn’t seem to have helped. I’ve tried resetting my lock, have unpaired and repaired several times, repaired my Z-wave networks at least 10 times and gave it a full 48 hours. Not sure if this is accurate but the routing on IDE has always reported that my lock is routing through my upstairs thermostat. The lock never wants to route through my extender which is about 6 feet away that I was assume does a better job repeating than the thermostat which is closer to 25-30 feet away.
When I remove the lock and bring it right next to the hub, it updates beautiful but can never get it working well when I put it into position. Any suggestions would be helpful and if I get this working, would be forever in your debt.
UPDATE: Now there is a way to tell if it’s routing through a repeater. See my post above for details.
If you think the thermostat is causing an issue (it’s been known to happen depending on the model and how it was paired with ST, usually it’s best to keep a C-Wire connected to the thermostat and then pair it and continue to run it using a C-Wire). One way to make it change it’s routing, turn off your thermostat or better yet, exclude it. Then pair your lock with the hub, check the routing tables and the it’s going the way you like it, then pair your thermostat. If you don’t want your thermostat to act as a repeater, make sure the C-Wire is disconnected while pairing it.
I have a Yale Conexis L1 Smart Door and doesnt matter what I do my front door will not use a repeater. I have a aeotec range extender 6 next to the lock (like under 3 feet)
Is Supports Z-Wave AES-128 Security S0 important in this case?
Keep in mind that changes to routes after a repair can take hours/days to shows up if your hub firmware is using 0.30 or earlier.
Starting hub firmware 0.31.x, which should be out in the next few weeks, that time should be reduced to a minute or so for the changes to show up in the IDE.
If my lock (Kwikset 910) does not show a entry for Route in the IDE, does that mean it is connected directly to the hub? My lock seems to work fine, so this is more curiosity than anything else.
I’ll note I have a Monoprice 27481 midway between the lock ad the hub, as well as a few older-gen Z-wave wall switches.
Hi folks, I’m struggling with my z-wave network a bit. As documented pretty much everywhere, you require beaming repeaters on your network for it to function properly. I have two zooz light switches that have the most up-to-date device handlers published to them. I also have a Yale lock right next to one of the switches (all z-wave plus). I’ve reset and added the switches and the locked multiple times, repaired the z-wave network countless times, and they all continue to route straight back to the hub, based on IDE. There are no hops in between. I’m running the most current hub firmware. I’ve tried to do it one at a time, for example: excluded all the devices, ran the repair, added a device at a time, with a repair in-between, and still routes are directly with the hub. At one point the lock routed to one of the switches, but when I added another device (dome water valve), and did a repair, the lock re-routed back to the hub.
Help! What am I getting wrong here?
The route listed in the IDE is NOT the only route used by the device. It’s just the last LOGGED route. ZWave devices do not only have one available route they know about all routes they CAN take… That’s why Zwave routing tables are usually expressed as a grid of available connections. If you’re trying to force the route to one specific device and see it in the IDE - you will be very disappointed. If the lock is working and a beaming repeater exists - stop.
So does the lock work?
Thanks for the quick response, Nathan. Well that answers my question. I thought I had been doing something wrong since the route within IDE was always showing back to the hub. My lock is working fine. I just wanted to make sure the network was working optimally.
Like others, I too could use some help. I have a Gen 2 Smartthings hub, and am trying to get my two Schlage Connect locks to work in a reliable way. I am using the RBoys device handler and LUM.
- My original Hub position was about 15 feet from the first lock. Second lock is an additional 15 feet away. Both connect directly to Hub, despite many beaming repeaters (mostly all GE 14294s) in the area. Locks work intermittently, notifications sometimes are missing, and my programming of user codes is hit/miss.
- I move Hub hub as far away as I can… three rooms away and about 55 feet from first lock. Several GE 14294 dimmers are within 5 feet of the lock (and more exist physically between there and the new Hub location). I delete locks and a few dimmers, re-pair them all (with lock being last), and then z-wave repair.
- Some devices now show going thru one of the 14294 dimmers, but no matter how many times I repeat this sequence, the locks always show routing thru the hub. Now locks even less reliable (presumably because Hub connection is weaker?)
Any suggestions on what I can change, to get the locks to route via anything but the Hub? Am I doing the sequence wrong? Try different dimmer model? (these are z-wave-plus and show as beaming) Would V3 Smartthings Hub be of any help? Are these locks (despite expensive) just not that reliable?
Appreciate any ideas.
I’m sure that’s very frustrating. however, there’s going to be quite a bit of discussion and trial and error that doesn’t really belong in this FAQ thread.
Could you please start a new thread for this and then we’ll see about getting some people to help you with it. I suggest titling it “trouble communicating with schlage Z wave locks“ in order to get the most helpful replies.
You can create the new topic in the following section of the forum:
One of the key points to note in the 2nd post above is about Ghost devices in your mesh. These can, in some cases severely, disrupt communications, cause a slow down and negatively impact the reliability of the mesh. I would highly recommend start with removing ALL ghost devices in your mesh as described on this page. If you’re still having issues then as @JDRoberts suggested start a new topic and we can take the discussion over there: