Thanks. I did a quick search for the dual leviton dual switch but it seams there discontinued. Is there a website that still sells them? This would be the easest solution. Still I’ll take a look at the relay. Do you know they work with alexa?
Is there a way to use an in wall relay as a dimmer?
I think they sell in wall relay dimmers, but how are they triggered physically? How is the usability?
I’m pretty sure when I looked recently I found it somewhere, maybe an amazon reseller. It was going for like $100 which is more than I’d like to pay for one. so in general, yes, could be hard to find now.
May not be, make sure you read some of the old topics in which people describe the experiences they had trying to get both switches paired with the ST hub.
Can’t tell if you’re referring to the Leviton dual switch or one of the in-wall relays I mentioned, but it doesn’t really matter. Any of these types of devices that use z-wave or zigbee need a hub like ST or wink that has a controller for these protocols. Alexa devices like echo and dot are wifi only, so all Alexa integrations are through the cloud. Any type of switch you have that’s paired to ST should work with Alexa if you have the ST skill enabled.
Unfortunately the Leviton VRCS2 has been discontinued for 2017 and I think pretty much everybody is out of stock on it.
A dual relay should work as long as you have room for it in the switch box.
Weirdly, some of the most popular dual relay micros seem to be out of stock also almost everywhere, including the enerwave and the vision. But those haven’t been discontinued, they should come back in stock eventually.
Meanwhile, several retailers do seem to have the Fibaro dual switch 223 micro in stock. This is a good quality device and also Z wave plus (the newest generation) but it does cost a little more than some of the other brands.
@erocm1231 was working on a custom device type handler for it, but I don’t know if he ever released it.
edited to update June 2017, the vision dual relay is back in stock at several retailers
Two different device classes.
A relay is just an on/off binary switch.
A dimmer is a “multi level switch.”
Both are available as in wall micros, but they will be different models.
Most companies that make in wall micros, including Aeon Labs and Fibaro, make both types. You just have to check the product descriptions to see which is which.
If you’re asking what the form factor is for the wall switch that is used with an in wall micro dimmer, it’s typically a momentary/retractive switch and you press and hold for the dimming action.
Some micro dimmers can also work with a regular toggle switch where you can flip the switch multiple times quickly. Again, you just have to read the product specs to see what options each model offers.
The only thing you can’t use with an in wall micro dimmer is a traditional rotary dial analog dimmer switch.
I do have a device handler for the Fibaro Double Switch 2. It is a great device.
As with what @JDRoberts was saying, to dim an in wall dimmer you a few options. The Fibaro Dimmer 2 allows you to have a default dim level when turned on at the switch and then if you double toggle quickly it will turn it up to 100%. On mine, I have the default dim set to 30% and when I need the extra light I do a quick double toggle. You can fine tune it to different dim levels using the SmartThings app of course. The other option is to use a Momentary wall switch which allows you to hold the button down to dim up and then let go and hold the button again to dim down.
Another option are the Qubino in-wall devices. A little cheaper that the Fibaro and a great device.
I have the exact same problem with my outside front porch lights and lamp posts. I ended up changing the lamp post fixture to accept e26 bulb bases instead of the e12s it had and then just used smart bulbs in the fixtures. Ironically, it cost less than buying two smart switches.
Not sure I’d take the same approach with my kitchen/dining area as I dont’ really need to touch the outside switches since they are fully automated based on sunrise/sunset and motion. In the kitchen, I’d want the backup of the physical switch.
Thanks for the responce everybody
One thing to note is that I will eventually be introducing a fan into the mix here.
Did you read any of the posts above in this topic?
we really need a dual fan, light single switdch… there would be a good market for this… many have it.
I agree, plus folks like me who are still looking for a double light switch in a single gang box need something, too! I have six of these switches in my house so I would love to be able to convert them to a tap that would automate lights/fans/other stuff.
It looks like there is the Mojocraft Wireless Smart Wall Switch 2 Gang switch. Looks like it’s possibly the right thing for this application. I’ve not checked to see if it can work with Smart Things. Did anyone else try it?
It looks to be WiFi which means no direct integration. If they have an open API someone could integrate it.
Change the box out to a larger gang box… Home Depot has single, dual, triple, and quad retrofit boxes, just make sure there isn’t another stud limiting you, if so you could go up.
Don’t go down, minimum height code/rules for light switches… don’t know why, floods???
That switch uses the smartlife app. There are a couple of different ways to integrate with it. There is an IFTTT channel, so you can just try that, although recently it has stopped working for anything except basic on/off. But it does still seem to be working for that.
There are also a couple of community – created integrations. Just search for SmartLife. ( that’s a Chinese company, it has nothing to do with Samsung or SmartThings, just a somewhat similar name).
My only concern is that If This is like other similar switches, it won’t have any safety certifications, and speaking just for myself, I don’t wire anything into the mains, even a light switch, if it doesn’t have safety certifications. The convenience of home automation isn’t worth burning down the house. But that’s just me.
Yes, great point. It has the FCC and CE marks on the back, but CE appears to be “self certification”. By the way, I found the part itself on AliExpress from someone named “Anni and Saarah Electronics Company Ltd”
Thanks for the pointers on ST integration. Not sure if I’ll try this or not. I’d love to see a switch from a reputable source, as I probably can’t change my box out. I haven’t checked, but I’m nearly certain it’s boxed in by studs.
Old post I know but it popped up.
I don’t think this is true unless your boxes are already very low (and you’d end up below ADA requirements). Light switches can be mounted lower if wanted.
It if were restricted to due to possible floods then my outlets need to be raised .
If possible, outlets should be installed no less than 15” (measured from the lowest outlet to the finished floor) above the finished floor and the panel box, switches and the thermostat should be installed no less than 48” above the finished floor (measured from the highest breaker inside the panel).
section 4.2 page 15
I know people rehabbing houses that have been written up for this in inspections…
In the 4.12 light switches section, says:
All new wall switches shall be located for convenience and accessible use.
People in wheelchairs, those who are of smaller stature, or in some cases for the convenience of children, often have lights switches installed lower than 48”. Also the same section you quoted just says they’re recommendations, not requirements. You shouldn’t be written up for it, especially if there’s an ADA reason to lower them.
The receptacles are supposed to be at least 15 inches up for safety for people who have difficulty bending down that far.
As far as the 48” reference, Whoever wrote that Texas document screwed up and left out a word. The ADA and ANSI requirements are a maximum of 48 inches high. That’s a wheelchair reach issue. You definitely shouldn’t be written up for having it lower than 48 inches, but you might be written up for having it higher in new construction.
American National Standard A117.1-1998.
308 Reach Ranges
308.1 General. Reach ranges shall comply with Section 308.
308.2 Forward Reach. 308.2.1 Unobstructed. Where a forward reach is unobstructed, the high forward reach shall be 48 inches (1220 mm) maximum and the low forward reach shall be 15 inches (380 mm) minimum above the floor or ground.
FHA has adopted the same design standard:
This was a change a couple of years ago from earlier standards.