Experience using ZOOZ z-wave plus on/off toggle switch?

Any more reviews. Trying to make a decision on dimmers

Anyone have any experience with the Zooz ZEN22? Site below has them listed for $26.95 which seems like a good deal. The only info I can see is that they are Z-Wave+ but do not support 3-way. Also wondering if they support 2-way comm or instant update, that would be nice but dont have high hopes given the price tag.

I purchased the Zen21 and am having problems getting them recognized by ST. For those that had success, what was the trick? I have brought the hub right next to the switch and toggled it quickly on and off 3 times. Even tried 4 or and 5 times, still not recognized. I then tried and exclude and include and that didn’t work either.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

1 Like

I got a Zen21 last week and was able to add it with an Aeotec minimote. It added as a zwave switch device type. My problem is that while the physical switch works just fine I can’t control it via the app. It shows as always on but I’m having the same problem with a GE 12727 so either I’m too far away from the hub/mesh or maybe I’ve got the line and load switched???
Was really hoping this switch would allow me to extend my mesh out to my barn from the house.

I have 4 of the dimmers (ZEN24) installed and working. Two things you may want to know:

  1. It says to contact them for 3 way use. I did and you can use the GE 12728 for this model.

  2. Do not use the standard long face plate screws in the bottom hole. Use the short one. Zooz does not provide face plate screws but GE does. It automatically turn the switch off when you screw it in all the way.

I thought the GE and Zooz may be made by same company as they look very similar. But the action of the switch is a little different. The GE has a better feel to it. It kinda clicks when you push it up or down, giving a tactile feel that the button was pressed. Also the GE contains a white jumper cable required to install. The GE also contains short screws to screw the plate to. If you re-use long screws, they actually go into the body of the switch and prevent it from working. But at a 50% increase in price for the GE ($38) over the Zooz ($25), I can live with the Zooz and get a bunch more. :wink: Also the Zooz is Z-Wave Plus which is nice.

Hi @baboss. If you’re able to control the switches manually, and the lights go on and off when you toggle them, then the wiring is fine (if you switch load with line, a Z-Wave switch will most probably die once you restore power to it). Range may be an issue so it’s best to repair network to optimize communication. Click on the Menu icon in your ST app, then tap on Hub is Online > Z-Wave Utilities > Repair Z-Wave Network > Start Z-Wave Network Repair.
Another thing we found was helpful is changing device type to Z-Wave relay when you log into https://graph.api.smartthings.com/login/auth and go to My Devices, then click on the Zooz switch, scroll down to the bottom and click on the Edit button. Then go to Type and select the Z-Wave relay from the drop-down menu. Click the Update button on the bottom of the page and you’re done. Let us know if that helped!

1 Like

I spoke too soon, only 3 of my 4 dimmers connected to my hub.

The Zoozs switches have been a nightmare to try to pair with Smartthings. Zooz support has sent me a video showing them excluding and pairing, but I have tried to get it working for hours. I DID get 2 of my 3 switches paired using the minimote, but only the on/off switch actually works. The dimmer is “paired”, and shows the status of the switch, but I cannot control the switch in SmartThings.

Zooz support has been very reliable in terms of communication, but i’m still without control of my Dimmer device. It’s also weird that I have to install my switches upside down so that “up” turns on the light and “down” turns it off.

Another difference between the Zooz decora switches compared to GE is the blue convenience light bleeds through the edges of the paddle, and even through the paddle itself to some degree. This obviously doesn’t cause a problem in operation but for purist it might be an issue.

Thanks @TheSmartestHouse.
The physical switch works just fine (other than the quirky touch/feel of it compared to the GE switches). What is odd is that it shows as always ON via the ST apps. Looking at the device in the hub UI it shows as inactive from 5 days ago when I re-added it. I suspect I still have a distance issue from the edge of my porch/house to my steel-sided barn. I did change the Zooz DT to relay and ran several repairs w/ no luck. I have 3 outlets (Iris) and 1 switch (Zooz) in the barn and I always get “Failed to update mesh info” and “Failed to update route” errors for all when running the repair. The outlets all work fine but I assume the ZigBee is what’s working on them.

I placed a Fibaro dimmer (z-wave+) on the screened porch at the house and the Zooz (z-wave+) light switch in the barn (wall closest to porch) hoping that the two would be able to see each other and extend the mesh to the barn. I’ll drag out the extension cord again and see how close I have to get the Fibaro dimmer to the barn to build the mesh w/ multiple z-wave repairs. I might move the hub around inside the house again as well…

Hi @baboss, if you have the switches installed in a steel-sided barn, it will be very difficult for you to extend signal to it. Metal walls block radio frequencies out completely and it’s recommended to run a separate controller in an detached space like a garage or barn because all of your devices in the barn will solely depend on that one Fibaro dimmer which is concealed in the wall anyway, possibly in a metal switch box which blocks most of its signal anyway. Your best bet to get to the barn would be to install the Aeotec signal extender since it also amplifies signal for you. But even with that it may be challenging to reach devices behind metal walls or fence.

Yep, this is most likely the challenge I’m facing. I was mistaken in that the dimmer outlet I have is an Aeotec Smart Dimmer 6 (Gen5/zwave+) not a Fibaro.
The Aeotec Smart Dimmer is on my screened in porch on the corner facing the barn. I’d say the open air distance from the dimmer outlet to exterior of the barn wall is 88ft or so. The barn wall that faces the house has an 18ft wide fiberglass garage door. The Zooz wall switch (zwave+) is on the inside of this wall in a plastic electrical box. I also have an Iris Outlet (zwave repeater+zigbee) on this wall and in various other places in the barn. The ZigBee on the Iris switches all work fine in the barn. The zwave’s in the switches all fail the repair.

I’ll take a look at the repeater. Perhaps if I mount an external weatherproof outlet on the outside barn wall and put another zwave+ device plug into I might make the jump from house to barn.

Does this Aeotec repeater/booster boost the zwave signal better than the Iris Smart Outlets?

Could not link my forth switch so I emailed them and they sent me a video on exclusion. I have never done it on smartthings so it never crossed my mind. That did the trick and now all 4 are working perfect. Great service at the smartest house.

1 Like

Hi @baboss, a Z-Wave extender is definitely your best best. Open-space of 88feet is not much of an issue but the walls in the barn definitely are an obstruction. Depending on material, it may be fixed by one extender on the porch or it may need another one on the exterior wall of the barn. The Aeon Labs extender is also a signal amplifier so it will always extend the signal better than a regular Z-Wave device with a built-in repeater. Let us know if the extender does the job!

I have Zooz ZEN24 that works fine with Smartthings app both the control and indications, but when I turn the dimmer on or off manually the app does not show the current status of the switch, it just shows the last commanded state from the app. I’ve tried the following device handlers and get the same result Dimmer Switch and Z-Wave Dimmer Switch Generic. I also have a GE dimmer switch which works just fine.

1 Like

I fixed the problem I was having by moving the air gap to the left waiting a minute then moving it back to the right.

Actually did not get it installed back in July. I contacted an electrician and told me the switch was defective. I was able to wire a normal switch and my Hue bulbs work just fine with that.

Just wanted to comment here that while this was true for third generation Z wave, it’s no longer true with the current generations. Pretty much all zwave 4th and 5th generations devices are already running at the full transmission power allowed by the standard. There’s no reason to get a single purpose “range extender” anymore – – any mains powered device should work fine and give you equal range extension. That includes light switches, pocket sockets, in wall relays, etc. :sunglasses:

I have had mine for about two months and I really like them

1 Like

I just installed a ZOOZ ZEN24 Dimmer Switch. It paired without any issues and is working fine.
It is 20ft away from the hub and I paired it without moving the hub.

I originally wanted to use this and a GE 12728 Add-On Switch for a 3-way application but the the switch wiring was too complex to figure out(there were multiple 3-way switches in the same box) and I abandoned that thought and instead replaced a regular switch with the ZOOZ ZEN24.