@pizzinini - I think I will install both a manual shut off valve, and a solenoid valve. I am not too fond of the bolt on motors to regular manual shutoffs although they are a great choice to avoid a plumbing work if you already have a general shut off valve. The manual shut off valve for my house is in a small manhole in the yard and likely controlled by the utility company.
While I am at it, I might also add a flow meter so I can keep track of water consumption…
A company that makes both these devices is:
@JDRoberts - I’ve seen a number of solenoid valves meant for residential pipes that required less than 1.5A at 12V DC. The products listed on the site above seem to require less than 1A, while the Fortrezz model seems to require about 1.3A at full load - both at 12V DC. Given they run at 12V DC I can easily replace their power supply with a sealed lead acid battery that is always under charge - essentially a 12V DC UPS. By using a 9Ah SLA battery I should be able to guarantee between 5 and 8 hours of protection without power.
Mentions 12V DC 1A requirement to control valve and control circuit:
Mentions power supply provided handles a full load of 1.3A at 12V DC
My internet connection hardware is:
Fiber to Ethernet adapter outside my house --> Uverse Gateway --> Router --> ST hub
The Uverse box is actually a router but I set it in pass through so I can avoid using ATT’s junk. The adapter outside my house is powered by a 12V UPS that has a 12V 7Ah battery in it, while the Uverse Gateway, Router and ST Hub are all powered by a dedicated 1500VA 120V UPS. I have not done formal testing but my internet access was rock solid during a number of small recent outages.
My biggest issue is the actual physical implementation… plumbing, anchoring the new devices to something on the wall so there is no undue pressure on the plastic pipes sticking out of the wall. I do not want the whole thing to look like some hack or to cause some pipe joint to leak because of the weight of added equipment.
Borrowing a picture from Fortrezz:
The setup here looks a bit messy but at least it is anchored to the wall, and uses copper pipes so it is solid.
EDIT: One thing I forgot is that zigbee and zwave mesh networks would be mostly down in the event of a power outage (all hardwired/plug in devices would be down) therefore the messages from leak sensors to the hub and hub to shut off valve may never get to destination unless they normally talk to the hub directly. Even if ranger were not an issue, I wonder whether the mesh networks would heal themselves at all or in useful time.
The chances of a leak happening when the power is out is way smaller than it happening while power is on so maybe I should just worry about the latter scenario to keep things simple/practical.