gotcha - I have a bunch of vision/monoprice dual relays that can hook up to the regular 3 way switch setup.
Problem is they are just on/off switch with no dimmer capability.
Holy cr@p!!! Iāve spent the last 8 hours (straight) trying to get this to work and Jeffās solution actually worked!!! I know it makes no sense at all but I didnāt care. It worked so Iām happy! Iāll be making a video to help some people out since thereās absolutely nothing out there about this method. Thanks Jeff!! I owe you a beer bro!
Wait. Itās working sort ofā¦itās not reliable enough to be used this way. Sometimes the switch toggles the light, other times it does nothing. Sometimes it flickers. I have the switch set to momentary.
So it seems that at some point I simply fried the micro switch. Once I tried a new one and wired it up using the included instructions it worked perfectly. I was able to do this since I was lucky enough to have line and load in the same box.
Jeffās method would work for someone who doesnāt have a live wire and load wire in the same box, which is the case with a 4-way setup I have in my house. Iām going to try this method with that setup and report whether or not the momentary rewiring works.
I have a 3 Way switch and this is what it looks like. How do I wire the micro dimmer?
Is this the correct way?
http://aeotec.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/MicroSESG2Schematics4.png
and if so what does the O with the X mean? also how do I connect the light switch back to the dimmer? @Mike_Maxwell I watched your video but did not understand how you set it up.
The 0 with the X in it is the load, meaning the light bulb that you are controlling with the micro.
The video I have on this subject is specific to using the micro dimmer in a three way setup using momentary toggle switches.
The black screw on the switch in your picture is the common, meaning that is the terminal that goes to each of the micro switch inputs.
@Mike_Maxwell
Thanks for the quick reply. Here is the wiring in my box:
The black wire with the yellow tape is the Hot Wire. Based on the diagram above I know what to do with the Hot Wire that goes into L under AC and the neutral goes into N in AC But the load is what has me scratching my head. The red and black additional wires do I place that into the L Load and N Load?
if that is the case then how to I connect the wall switch back up?
doesnāt look like the light is terminated in that box, youāre going to have to look in the box with the other three way switch in it.
Iām guessing that your pic is of the right hand box in pic 2 hereā¦
http://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/wiring-diagrams-3way-4.html
It could be pic 1, to see if thatās the case unscrew the bulb and see if black is still hot, if it is then pic 2, if not then pic 1ā¦
Ok so I opened up the other box. I have a 3way smart dimer from GE in next to the one I want to change.
@Mike_Maxwell
So I switch power back on and then tested. the black wire in my Pic 1 with the yellow tape is the power. what now?
@Mike_Maxwell Do I just put a wire nut on the red and black load wires and then connect that to the L Load?
and on the switch side I hook up one to the back nut and another wire to on of the two load wires nuts?
no idea, make your self a little drawing of what you have, and what wires go between each box.
Then figure out how to take those wires and assign them to the aeon three way diagram.
Get your self some sort of device to detect the live voltages.
Iām not going to guess what connects to what, nor should you.
So I got it working but the second switch when turned off wont let me turn the light on via the Aoen dimmer switch. but it works for me the way it is. Thanks @Mike_Maxwell
I believe I need this setup. Because the load and the AC are in opposite gang boxes. Does this mean I have 2 lines plus the traveler in first gang box? If that makes sense.