Now I’m wondering if it’s something about the (or at least my) long trigger loop. My one working install is to a single switch with the loop only running a few inches. If you’re using relays, then the effective trigger loop length is similarly short for the three-way config. I was a little confused at first, until I realized that the relays will switch an AC signal (for the non-dimmer’s trigger circuit) just fine, even though its only rated for DC. This makes sorting through relays on Digi-Key more…interesting.
I run the coil side off 120vac through the device switches, the dry contact side goes across the low voltage input switch side on the Aeon, you only need one relay per Aeon.
Yeah, but the on-off micro doesn’t have a low-voltage input like the dimmer does. It uses line voltage for the trigger circuit. I don’t think the relay cares (it’s just a conductor), and the amperage is low.
Sorry, the switch and the dimmer work the same way in regards to low voltage control. I have both micro switches and dimmer installed in three way circuits. You wire the relay contacts on the two switch ports that have the little switch symbol on them.
I have the switches in a three way configuration wired exactly the same way as the dimmer in the video posted earlier.
All your physical switches do is turn the relay on and off, the contacts (common and no or nc) on the relay go to the Aeon.
I was clear on the role of the relay, and was only noting that the non-dimmer version’s trigger uses AC line voltage instead of low-voltage DC. Since relays will switch both, even if they aren’t explicitly rated for it, it ultimately doesn’t make a difference. In the case of the non-dimmer, the relay would be AC line switching AC line which I thought might be redundant (but is also modified by the wiring of the outputs that I don’t have the expertise to figure out).
I didn’t notice until last night that you are using all three pins on the output half of the relay, which confused me a little bit, since I didn’t expect the 3V from the micro-switch to be connected, just the two switch wires to V+ and V-. On the non-dimmer micro-switches, the middle post is Vs+ (line) and the other switch post is
Vs- (path to neutral). Assuming it’s the same on the dimmer, it looks like you’re connecting the 3V (LED power for the Aeon touch-switch product) to the R+, the Vs+ to the R-, and the Vs- to the relay logic out (which looks like it normally functions as an open drain to R- when the relay is triggered). By this point my limited ability to figure out the hows and why’s had been exceeded, and I filed it under “magic”. Does it not work without the 3V tied in (just Vs+ to R+, Vs- to R-) if I use a relay without an I/O pin?
I had the same experience that you did. I could get my 3way to work sometimes and then turn off breaker to stuff everything back in the box only to have it stop after turning the power back on. I determined that I could always get them to work if I kept the trigger wire ( the wire from the 3way switches that are shunted) disconnected when applying power, then connecting it while hot. Everything working perfectly, even able to change the mode from momentary to switch etc. But as soon as I toggle the circuit breaker, it would stop working. Had to send them back but I wonder if I just got some bad ones.
The SSR/optio coupler in the picture is a bastard of a product, being a 120VAC input and 5VDC logic capable output.
Internally I’m presuming it uses V+ to run the LED. If I could have found a small form factor 120VAC coil relay I would have used that, in which case there would be no need to pull the +3v off of the aeon.
I’m suggested trying a relay as you’re not having much success triggering the aeons off of 120vac, with the relay contacts being connected to the aeon contact switch pins. You’re right using the relay to control 120VAC to the aeon trigger input is redundant and I can’t see it working any differently that what you have setup already.
@findleybc’s experience and mine match in the timing of the failures. While it could be that messing with related wiring while the power was down is the source of the issue, it does make me wonder if there’s an initial spike when the breaker is turned on that something in the switching circuit can’t handle. Your setup with a relay or an external switch that’s off would avoid that possibility. Of course, while you can make sure external switches are open during wiring, that wouldn’t help during/after a power failure. Also, the micro-switch I have on a SPST switch hasn’t failed, and if it’s because it’s been off/open most of the time, it’s by chance. I would think that it would be a more common, not-limited-to-3-way issue, but perhaps it’s not an issue in most homes.
I think my next steps will involved sacrificing chickens. I’ll start with the boneless tenders in my freezer, and escalate if necessary. Also, shifting micro efforts to SPST installs, and considering either dimmers + relays for the 3/4 ways or complete switch replacements. Not figuring out how something works (or why it doesn’t) will continue to bother me, but I’ve been stuck on this for long enough already. And I really wanted instant update of the Aeons and the tactile feel of standard switches, too…
I was trying to follow your instructions and I’m a little confused. This is my existing wiring.
This is a diagram of what I got from your post. Would you be so find as to provide instructions for the remain connections. I have numbered the switches, boxes and terminals. I marked the pigtails as purple. For example, I think you said to jump Switch 1 from term1 to term2.
Hey guys, I have a question regarding the micro-dimmers.
I have an old house and I have no problem putting the unit at the light, my concern is physical wall switch use for my wife.
Whatever I install she has to be able to walk to the switch, turn it on/off and dim, is there a recommended wall switch to go along with the Aeon micro switch, or can I just use any dumb dimmer switch?
I currently have a Lutron dimmer I am quite fond of.
If I should re-post this in a different thread please let me know.
You cannot use a dimmer with an Aeon Micro Switch or Dimmer. You can only use a simple on/off switch, or a momentary button.
You will not have local control over the dimming at the switch when you use one of the Aeon devices. The only way to dim one of these things is with the ST app, or a SmartApp.
I bought two Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS for a project I want to tackle. I have a 3-way set of switches that control some backyard flood lamps. One switch is downstairs the other is upstairs. I bought two thinking I need one at each of the switches however, from what I am reading it sounds like only one maybe needed. I also have a GE12722 handy if needed. Any info would be appreciated like if only one micro switch is required should it go into the box with the main power feed to it or the secondary switch in the line. Iv’e not checked but imagine the primary is the downstairs switch and the second is upstairs although the lights are right outside the second floor switch
You will only need one Aeon micro switch for the 3 ways but you have to figure out which wiring configuration is your 3 ways in order to know where to put it.
will your install video wiring allow both Z-Wave dimming and on off as wired? I don’t fully understand yet I’m trying to learn how this setup works because as most find out they don’t have wiring that is compatible with the recomended installation. Thanks for posting the video at all. EDIT: I think I understand it better now I think it should.
yes, full dimming and on off functions from 2 or more momentary paddles.
Do you think it is possible that I can wire the Aeon smart micro switch gen 2 to my 3 way switch in this setup? TIA
The Aeon dimmers will not work with a 120vac traveler (like is shown with the aeon switch modules), I blew one up trying this.
A feasible way of doing this is to replace the current switched endpoint (the neutral and hot to the fixture) with a 120vac coil relay, the relay dry contacts then connect to the aeon switch inputs, and the aeon output then goes back to the fixture.
Thanks for your reply, Mike. I will use these switches for single pole switches then.
On another note, do you know if there is any other micro switch out there that would work with my 3 way switch setup? tks
I don’t, but there are more devices out there now than there was when I did my three way setup…