Zooz Zen 27 install on a simple circuit

In my automation project, I am installing smart switches, and have opted for the Zooz switches due to features, and cost, for the most part, I have a couple of non zooz switches going in as the Zooz features don’t fit my need, particularly for a higher capacity switch. (One of my circuits requires at least 500w LED support in a simple on / off switch).

Now this is a feature rich smart Zwave Plus dimmer, that simply speaking has too many features to list here, so I encourage you to take a look at the product page at https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-z-wave-plus-s2-dimmer-switch-zen27-with-simple-direct-3-way-4-way

Mind you, I am having a bit of a quandry getting them installed in a 3 way configuration, but Zooz support is working with me to understand my circuit and how the switch can integrate, so for now, you get a write up on a simple single point circuit…

For the single switch configuation, installation was fairly straight forwad, but there are a couple of caveats to this.

#1. Be absolutely certain you know your wires. You MUST have a neutral, and you MUST know which wire is the line, and which is the load. Testing for this entails risk, so be super careful doing so, or hire a professional electrician!

#2. Be sure you are using the right switch for the application. I messed up this at first and installed a dimmer on a circuit that had no dimmable bulbs. Ooops… This caused problems later on when reinstalling for reasons listed below.

The push in wire clamps that the switch is built with differ in cocept and execution from the push lock type wire holders found in standard switches from vendors such as GE, and Leviton.

The best way I can manage to describe it is there is a captive plate on a screw, if you run the screw out as far as it goes before it stops, and allow the plate to drop, insert the wire, then tighten the screw and the plate comes up agains the wire, pressing it against itself and what appears to be a stationary contactor plate, locking the wire in place and making the electrical connection.

It’s nowhere near as complex as the spring loaded type, but it is simple, and quite effective.

Once the basic installation was complete, this is when things got interesting.

Set smartthings to add a thing / pairing mode, triple tap the switch, and wait, and wait, and wait and wait.

Now this isn’t what happened when I installed it in the kitchen.

Time out. Ugh…

Scroll up things, the simple on off smart switch I replaced this switch in the kitchen will became unavailable…

Looks like the Zwave exclusion / factory reset didn’t work even though SmartThings said it succeeded.

Trip SmartThings into Repair Zwave network, and wait. I have a total of 6 Zwave devices connected if we include this switch I am trying to add… We wait some more. And did I mention we wait?

Okay so the screen says succesful, go back to things, and see that my Kitchen Light switch is there, and avaialble now, it’s on, and there is no dimmer, so looks like it is seeing the NuTone simple switch now. Good deal.

Go back in, add a thing, triple tap, and bam, Zooz Zen 27 dimmer shows up almost immediately!

Mind you, I am not going to fault the Zooz switch for the Zwave exclusion not being fully right, that is actually kind of my fault for not running a Zwave network repair after the exclusion. I have read about that here, and just forgot that step. And this is what I get for that. Literally an extra hour of work trying to figure out WTF is going on with this thing?

Okay added, named, and added to my SmartLighting and ADT Tools 2 SmartApps… Tested, and it appears to be a happy thing…

So for now, I am pending the feedback on wiring my 3 way Zen 27s, my 3 way circuits do NOT have a neutral between switches, but the Zooz diagrams show one. Not a good thing.

I have the zen 26 and I only have neutral in one box.

It works fine. No need for Nuetral for the dumb switch side.

Also, all smart switches use the same connection method and I would NOT call them push lock!

Push lock are common, but are not considered safe!

These are not push lock and I prefer them to the normal wrap around screw types of connections.

GE smart switches/ Homeseer and premium dumb switches and premium dumb outlets all use this connection method.

Is this the diagram you are using?


Note that you only need neutral in ONE box, not both!

You can see in option one in the picture, that Nuetral goes from the zooz switch to the light and never goes to the second dumb switch!