I have the 16 zone Rachio too - Fantastic product. I have extra zones leftover too, but it is 100 feet away in the garage, and the pump room is in the basement. Its why I bought a wall plug transformer for $7.95. Orbit 3/4" irrigation value was $22.95. And I trust z-wave network protocol more than I do wi-fi (unless you have your router on a UPS). A lot cheaper than a $500 z-wave in-line valve - and you right, reliability is a concern (I have over 20 irrigation values buried, thorough summer and winter for over 10 year and they don’t ever fail) . My Aeon batteries are between 46%-53% capacity as reported in the controller after two years - and that is with the cheap no-name “AAA” batts they ship with. So probably 3+ years total before i get an alert to replace at less than 20%. Then with new Duracells…even more life,
If you use a z-wave 240v switch for the pump, remember you have to leave the existing knife “service disconnect” switch there as part of the circuit. Doesn’t matter much if you wire the z-wave just before or just after, but just about all North American Electrical Codes need that switch there for service personnel to visually see and know power is off and stays off before servicing equipment (a breaker at the main panel is not enough, as someone (homeowner) could turn that back on by mistake, or a z-wave controller remotely turns on a 240v smart switch). Same set up you see at A/C compressor outside the house, or why there is a furnace switch next to furnace.
And after rehashing this, I made a new z-wave controller scene to flush the pressure tank weekly now at a set time, just like the other filters do once a week. Just 10 seconds to get the big sediment out. Heavy iron in my water. Further, I’m now going to get another 3/4" irrigation valve and replace the hot water drain spigot for the same function -maybe once a month. No matter how much filter equip you have with well water, your hot water tank collects what ever is missed at the bottom of its tank. Its a function of how the water is heated in a column under pressure - the crap precipitates out and collects at the bottom, as does the particles that flake off the 'sacrificial anode" metal rod in the tank there to prevent rust. Water from a hot water tank should never be used for drinking or cooking for that reason. Boil from cold water only.
Final tip - I have a huge 75 gallon natural gas , powered exhaust hot water tank, electronic ignition. The control and fan wiring from the tank is plugged in to a z-wave leviton outlet. Saves a bit of money. I set the tank thermostat to highest it can go - 150+ f scalding temp - but the mixing valve on top of tank (crossover of cold to hot output) (building code) injects cold water to ensure that temp doesn’t reach faucets. It fires up at 5:00-7:00 am M-F (cheaper electricity overnight for on time of day use where I am). A super hot tank (with that tin foil air bubble blanker i added around it can provide hot water for up to 3 days). On weekends, I let it go super hot all day as the electricity is also lowest rate on weekends and more use all day. Does this make sense? Most people just turn down the temp setting of the tank to save money. I say to those people google “Legionnaires’ Disease”. Won’t happen in my tank - everything is killed off every morning at a 150 F setting. Setting your tank down to 100 F is a bacterial sauna for bugs. Boil it off, kill everything once a day and save money at the same time by putting your tank on a timer or z-wave or other controlled switch.