Retro kits won’t be available, mainly since the manufacturer isn’t really interested in providing them. I’ve discussed it a few times and hoping someone will budge. Will keep you updated.
BTW for the multi motor power supply, I’ll have to get you the pricing as well as add it to your order if and when you plan to do it. We don’t offer it by default simply since it confuses the less tech savvy customers.
Makes sense. Can you share a rough idea of the price for the multi motor PSU?
They would be $320 (after discount)
Thanks! Sounds a bit on the expensive side, but I didn’t research the subject yet, so wouldn’t complain. 
It’s currently the only option available if you are planning on wiring each shade without actually wiring an outlet to each window. It’s also the only way to use your own wire currently without being limited by the length of the DC transformer.
My wife and I are talking about picking some of the Virtual Cord Z-Wave LightWeaves Blackout Roller Shades
We have one question, with the Outer mount option (our window sills are too small for inside mount), with the Roller Shade will much light leak through the sides? Our Current Roller Shade allow a ton of light through as they don’t sit flush to the sill.
Sorry about the late reply, I am travelling this week and don’t have access to the internet most of the time.
So for the roller shade especially on an outside mount, you would have to add atleast 2" to the window opening width and for the height you would need to add atleast 4 1/2" to the top and 2 " to the bottom. Otherwise light will leak through. Basically if the window opening from left to right is 20" you should ideally order a width of 24" and if the height is 20" you should ideally order atleast 26 1/2".
When the shades are installed as an outside mount if you only consider the width of the window opening, due to the space in between the shade and the window itself, light will leak out which is why the above is recommended. For the top I mentioned 4 1/2" mainly since I am assuming you plan to install the shade on top of the window opening. The 4 1/2" is basically allowance for the size of the actual shade and mounting brackets, otherwise if you install the shade right above the window opening but give us the height of the window opening only, the shade wont go all the way down and cover the opening.
The measurements are only a minimum and it might have to be changed depending on if you are purchasing a valance as well.
Hope that helps, if you need me to explain anything further just ask.
From the website, it recommends for the roller and outside to measure from the top of the window frame to the bottom and same from for the sides from the left frame to the end of the right frame.
My current roller shades meet the frame at the top and the bottom but for some reason bow out in the middle causing light to leak out (a very small amount, but happens to be right in my eyes 
).
Would the Shades be better since they are thicker?
If anyone else has the rollers mounted on the outside would they mind taking a picture from the side angle to see if shade is sitting on the frame or letting the light through?
The instructions I gave you are if there is no frame at all. If you have a frame around the window we usually recommend frame end to frame end. But if the frame width is greater than 3" on each side (normally around 3 1/2") you should have minimal light coming through. To block all light most customer’s usually add an inch or two to the entire width.
I am not sure why the shade is bowing out in the middle, unless you keep the window open and the shade closed. If that is the case it’s quite common on the rollers depending on if air is being pushed out of your home.
I am thinking it is the plastic in the shade warping with the sun that hit it, that side of my house get sun from sunrise to ~1 before sunset, The shades are open if the window is open, but they were on the house when we got them, so i can’t speak what happened before we moved in.
I’ll have to measure the frame to see how big it is.
Possibly. But good quality shades shouldn’t have that issue.
Smartthings coupon expired. Please do let me know whenever you are going to introduce more coupons.
Not sure what I am doing wrong but every time I pair my new somfy powered roller shades they show up as a switch but no dimmer. Anyone having similar issues or have an idea how to fix this?
Will update when there are new promotions.
Are these the Z-wave enabled shades? By default they should pair as a dimmer, if not you would need to login to your ide and change the device type.
Yeah these are new Bali roller shades with the integrated zwave I just installed this week. Just got smartthings too so I’m just starting to learn how to configure items and I’m not sure hwy they are showing up as switches. I’ll try to figure out how to change it in the IDE.
Well quick walkthrough would be to login to your ide, go into devices. Click on the device name, then hit edit. At this point under device type you should be able to select a dimmer switch.
Feel free to correct me if I am wrong, currently travelling and limited access to the internet so typing everything off of memory. Will be back in a week and a half.
Great I got it working by manually changing the device to a dimmer switch. Thamks
I’m having the exact same issue. v2 Hub, pairs as a Z-wave Switch with On/Off only. I removed and re-added a couple of times with no success.