Would like some advice: kitchen lighting and HVAC project (UK)

Excellent John - this is great feedback and much appreciated.
The colour of the LED strip will need to be constant despite being in different areas and I will have an extractor on the same circuit as one of the LED strips. I guess the length will be about 10m for both.
How many switches or light circuits work off of a Fibaro dimmer or relay switch?
If I have 2 switches for the LED strip (one by the bi-folds and one by the entrance) do they both the dimmer/relay behind the both switches?

Ok, by far the best way to deal with the LEDs is to have one module and run all 10m directly from the one module. Any other solution will result in colour change delays, and other sync issues that can easily be avoided. This will also mean that when one strip is on, the other is on.

Have you bought the lights / power supply yet?

At first glance this may seem odd if things are at different ends of the room, but if you’re knocking through and laying other cables it won’t be too much trouble.

As far as adding physical switches for the LEDs, I have no experience in this. Personally I would err on the side of using smart switches, or even using S2 on one of the fibaros.

I’ve found from reading here that switching the power to the LED power supply on/off can cause some erratic behaviour. Personally, I keep the PSU powered 100% of the time and just turn the lights on/off when I need to. This has been trouble free for me so far.

The extractor situation seems odd. Are you going to have the extractor wired in with the LED strip (i.e. so that when the lights are on the fan works)? Or is it just sharing the same power feed?


Well that is not necessarily true entirely… did you get the model number of the unit for me? I’ll do the research and verify the issues. It sounds like you got the Samsung DVM S with the dual compressors? BTW, if you know the actual model numbers of all the products you will be using it will help us with the suggestions for you. You mentioned the extractor… is that something you wanted on SmartThings? If yes than get that model number as well to see compatibility with fan controls.

Your kitchen sounds awesome. I can’t wait to see the plans. :slight_smile: The plans will help us know if you have 3-way switch requirements, where you have two switches in one location, possible neutral issues, etc. It sounds like you have at least one 3-way planned for your LED strip?

[quote=“jim2, post:18, topic:48243”]
If I have 2 switches for the LED strip (one by the bi-folds and one by the entrance) do they both the dimmer/relay behind the both switches?
[/quote]You should only need one dimmer with the two wall switches wired in to the one dimmer. Either wall switch will enable the dimmer to turn on/off to whatever you set the level to in ST. If we get your wiring diagram or show your electrician the manual pg 9-10 to verify your lighting wiring

Yes, the smartapp that comes internally with your hub Smart Lights can do the basic rule control of your lighting. If you need more advanced control you can use one of the community developed rule apps like SmartRules if you are on iOS (for a fee) or CoRE by @ady624 which still is in development but will be released I’m sure before your project is done.

(urgent: The electrician needs this info quickly since your wiring is going in now.)
Jim, this is a great idea to do what @John_Crighton did if it is not too late to have deep boxes installed to accommodate hiding your smart switch modules behind your wall switches. It just makes it less troublesome.

Also like @Navat604 suggested if they run neutrals to all switch locations it keeps your options more open for device selection.


Yep - I have already mentioned the deep boxes to my electrician and I will let him read the forum feedback on here to really grasp what is being instructed.
I am massively appreciative of all your help.

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I will find out the model number for you.
Thanks again

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Great, If your electrician has never worked with home automation before he can also take a look at some of these links to get an idea with pictures of what some possibilities are. He can take a read on the Fibaro Dimmer 2 manual to start getting a grasp on the some of the actual hardware you will be using. The posts below are a good read if he really wants to get into it :wink:

Excellent comments all around! :sunglasses:

Just a quick note for those following along:

In the US, a set up where two different switches control the same light is called a “three way.”

In the UK, the same set up is called a “two way.”

:level_slider: :bulb: :level_slider:

Similarly a “four way” setup in the US (one light, three switches) is called a “three-way” in the UK.

The UK is counting the number of switches. The US is counting the number of connections on one switch.

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Thanks again!
Will pass on the detail.

Good call! With my engineering background I personally prefer the UK method and the metric system of measurement. :grin:


Just for reference, here’s the stuff I used for my LED soffit box setup:

6A power supply, plenty of power to try and ensure reliability (so far so good, but I’ve put this behind a downlight in case things go wrong).

LED strip, 5m. It’s better never to join these in parallel, always make sure every run is 5m or less.

If runs need to be 5m or more away from the controller, use RGBW ext cable:

To connect the PSU to the Fibaro (or choc box):

And obviously the Fibaro RGBW controller itself.

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I used a similar RGBWW product for my kitchen cabinet lighting and it came out great. I used standard dimmers on the LED recessed can lighting. I actually didn’t go with the Fibaro RGBW controller (yet :slight_smile:) My current setup was a kit that used a wireless handheld remote to change to whatever color or flash. Then I used a simply Zwave wall switch to turn it on-off. If I want to change the color I need to use the manual remote. It saved me money before I went all out and got the dimming RGBW controller. Continuing the discussion from What is a good low cost solution for zwave controlled LED under cabinet lighting?:

By this do you mean G9’s fitting. As I don’t think you can get dimmable versions of these yet at least from a known brand. If you can they might not physically fit to, I would also be a bit sceptical on their dimming capability.
But this industry is changing quick and I could be wrong already.

If your LED strip is just 4k then you don’t need any of the RGB stuff and can dim and control it from just a Fibaro dimmer 2.

The extractor would be not easy if even possible to run from a circuit being controlled by a dimmer 2. Not without issues anyway.
You could from a circuit being controlled from a Fibaro relay
Or just put it on its own relay and link it to the light through ST. That way you could operate it independently if you wanted to as well.
If you want to get even more ‘fancy’ supply your cooker if electric and not to big through a Fibaro relay. and when its on your fan can go on to.

You will need about 45mm depth from the back boxes to the front surface of the wall to be safe, on most choices of switches etc. Boxes come in 35 or 47mm
47mm can be a lot to chop out on some walls though.

But they will fit in 35mm boxes, if you are not using flat plate switches or a modular system.
You can sink a 35mm in a bit deeper. IE back of plasterboard, gives you 47.5mm.
This is for 1 fibaro module in a 1g box or 2 in a 2g box. You might get more ,but will be fun for you electrician.

Dimmer 2 controls 1 circuit
Relay can control 1 or they do one for 2 circuits
You can also use the RGBW controler to do 4 circuits
You just need to check your circuit loadings to the Fibaro’s specs

Many thanks Paul. Great feedback.

Air Con is outdoor - AJ052 FCJ3EH/EU
2 x indoor - AR07KSFPEWQN/EU
Hope this helps?

That helps, l’ll try to find the manuals and see what if any options we have for you. UPDATE: The Samsung UK online support wasn’t able to get me pdf file manuals for your systems. … I’ll keep looking

Found one. The bottom-line answer is it looks like you will not be able to control your AC units from SmartThings short of using a Aeon Heavy Duty Switch for monitoring the power use and on-off of the incoming power which I wouldn’t advise. You must use the supplied Samsung controls/thermostat. You got yourself a pretty impressive AC system my friend. It has lots of smarts and a great wireless remote controller to operate it. It also appears to have a Sub PCB option to allow for central remote control which uses the BACnet protocol. So maybe in the future SmartThings would be able to use the BACnet communications protocol for building automation and control networks. I was hoping there might have been a way to pass any input to the system to at least put it in a home/away kind of mode through the PCB but there isn’t enough info in the installation manual.

Update3: It is possible that this may be a alternative integration to the existing Samsung thermostat controls via remote control by IntesisHome? It is an intriguing solution that may interest you if the API becomes available. something to watch for. This came from E_Sch

by the way, I would say one of the most used devices in my kitchen on a daily basis on my SmartThings hub is Amazon Echo :slight_smile: Since you’re building out the kitchen now, you would have the option to consider using the Amazon Dot and flush mount speakers in the ceiling or walls, or prewire power for Sonos or Samsung Wireless speakers. There’s something about having great sound in the kitchen while you work :grin:

  • Also you might consider adding a motion detector in the kitchen for automating your lighting.

This is a UK project – – Amazon has not yet released the echo there. However, since it is very likely that the echo or some similar device will be available in the UK in the next year or so, under best practices it’s worth considering whether you want to reserve an outlet for such a device as they almost all require mains power.

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I was thinking of using the ST motion detector for my Lighting in the kitchen, would you recommend this?
I already have 2 Samsung Wireless speakers (M5 and M3) but I am having trouble connecting them to ST as I can only play radio and not centralised music from my Samsung S6 plus - not sure if it is possible?

I do this exact same setup. I use the motion in my kitchen for both lighting (using ST Smart Lighting app) and alarm (use SmartAlarm) and motion works flawless. I just recently got a white Samsung Wireless M7 speaker for my kitchen. It plays great with my Note5 phone using the Samsung Multiroom app and connected to SmartAlarm for notifications. My only problem so far has been trying to locate the optional Samsung WMN100WA wall mounting bracket for the M7. It is not be available here in the US.

What exactly is the trouble you have connecting it to ST? I have mine connected using the Samsung Milk Music stream and it works very well. Here are videos that might help? (BTW; the app has been updated several times in the short time I got my speaker and even my speaker needed an update. Here is the link to check yours. ) I just started experimenting with it wanting to connect in a dog barking with the siren which is also in the kitchen. :wink: I also am looking into the Samsung option to wirelessly connect the M7 back to my audio equipment in another room to give more options on what I am listening to. Now if I really want to go high tech kitchen I just played with the [new Samsung refrigerator with Family Hub] (http://www.samsung.com/us/explore/family-hub-refrigerator/) at a local store in town. :smiley: The internal speaker is in the door and is poor but I connected it to an M3 at the store and sounds great. @Mike_Maxwell I believe has had these speakers as well but for a while now and could possibly give you his recommendations and thoughts?

My M7’s could not be discovered by the ST app until I had completed the firmware updates on them, after that I had no issues. I do not use them for music, so I can’t tell you the ins and outs in that regard.