Sorry for the delay. I only have 2 left in storage. Both 3/4. One stainless and one brass. You could try direct from the vendor we used, or from aliexpress, just make sure you get the right voltage and wiring configuration as they have a bunch of different options.
Do you know how wide the valve body itself is? I could be interested in one, but need it to fit in a particular spot
Look up at posts 21-24āish. There are some really good pictures and you may be able to figure out about how big. Mine isnāt handy at the moment, otherwise Iād get some solid measurements for you.
It fits snugly in a cardboard box thatās roughly 4x3x3 Motor housing is roughly 1.5x2x2.5 The metal part of the valve is about the same size as any other regular valve of the same diameter. The vendor could likely provide more exact measurements, but that should give you a rough idea. If i were replacing a standard valve with this one, I would ensure that there was about 3 extra inches of room available in each direction, just to be able to position and attach it with ease.
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I also assume that it doesnāt necessarily matter which direction the motor housing is oriented, horizontal or vertical? My supply lines used to feed a water softener that is no longer there, so I was thinking that I could replace the ball valve that was the bypass for that, but the pipes are vertical and only about enough room for the ball valve, an inch of pipe and then 2 tee fittings on either side. Iād have to mount the motor control horizontal and not vertical. (yes i am aware that my description might be hard to follow, sorry, thatās the fun of internet forums!)
LOL, no worries @Toasty. You can orient in any way you want.
ā¦ even in the short amount of time I have been here, I have seen so many descriptions of things that I donāt think anyone could follow, I had to try and fit in! 
Now, just to decide if I want to cut up the pipe and install a full valve, or try one of them bolt-on actuator motors. So many choices! (well, not that many, but more than one, which means making a decision!)
It will not budge the loosest 3/4" valve I can find at lowes. What brand of valve do you have? I bought āAmerican Valveā branded from lowes
Reading through this postā¦I am truly amazed on all the awesome work done here. I just had to deal with a water leak (could have been much worse). As part of my repairs, I am having a plumber replace/reconfigure my exterior water valves (main house entry & irrigation). The āgateā valve no longer completely shuts off the water. As part of replacing this with a ball valve, I asked him if he would install a home automation water valve. He said yes, but has gently indicated he would not feel comfortable installing a less expensive valve from overseas and must be rated for outdoors (1" line). So I think that leads me to Elk Electric WSV2 or the Greenfield ASV-100 (they look to be almost identical). Does anyone know if either of these shutoff valves will integrate with the Mimolite (or similar) to integrate with my SmartThings V2?
For any of you that have replaced your exterior water shutoff valve, did you replace your valve with a smart valve only, or did you use a smart valve in-line with a traditional ball-valve for additional protection should the smart valve fail?
I havenāt done it yet, but itās on my list. When I do, I will definitely still have a manual valve to be able to close the line if something goes haywire in the smart gadget (one way or another; whether itās from being able to manually work the one where the automated device is installed, or a separate one).
Also, the talk about having a bypass makes sense to me too. If the automated one closes and, for whatever reason, canāt be opened manually, I will definitely want a bypass so that I can get water to the house in the event of a malfunction/breakdown, etc.
Hi guys,
I new user here. The Econet got my attention. I need something like that for my vacation home.
A few questions:
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How does it know where to stop? Could it try to overtighten the lever when it is closing it and/or when it opens it?
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Is there a manual overdrive? OK, it is all manual but my question is - if something malfunctions, can you manually turn the lever?
Another, maybe unrelated question - any good Z-wave devices for turning off the water hearer power (240 V)? There is one on Amazon for $199ā¦
Question for the plumbersā¦
Is there a reason a high current zwave relay (contactor) canāt be used?
Seems like I have seen some that could directly switch the well pump (I have a well).
If pump is turned off, I think water flow should be stopped after a short amount of time, right?
Iāve been using the DTH for the MimoLite that @johnconstantelo created (thanks btw!) for quite some time now on my valve. Has anyone else noticed that after a few days or so the device tile stops responding to open/close commands? Hereās the situation, I apply power to the MIMO, open the ST app, tap the device to close/close the valve a few times, works great, no issues.
A week later I open up the app, tap the device to close the valve, the valve closes, but the device tile status stays on āclosingā and never changes to āclosedā, at this point the only way to get the valve to open is to physically disconnect/reconnect the power which opens the valve and gets the device tile functioning properly with the correct device state displayed.
Is anyone else seeing the same behaviour?
btw, Iām using Pollster to poll and refresh every 15 minutes.
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Hi @sgonsalves, I had that happen to one of my first Mimoliteāso. I ended up having to send it back to get firmware updated. I recommend contacting FortrezZ support.
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Thanks, I reached out to Fortrezz and Iām in the process of determining my Mimolite firmware version with ST support. Sounds like this might be the problem.
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John, did you move this code or is it available somewhere? Thanks!
https://github.com/constjs/SmartThings-Devices/blob/master/mimolite_water_valve_v2.device.groovy
Or is this the codeā¦
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Itās been moved and updated from that version:
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Really appreciate it. Iām caught up in a situation where I bought an expensive leak detection system called WaterSafe back in 2012, but the company went bankrupt and my system controller started failing after I replaced the backup batteries. I could not connect to the valve controller or sensors with the Samsung hub even though they are Zigbee (most likely some proprietary version?). I also tried a Hubitat and tried different channels. Anyway this post has been very helpful. This is my valve (http://www.puroflux.com/assets/vb015_actuator.pdf). I think what you all have done is great. Iām a software guy though so the electrical part will be tricky for me.
Does the MimoLite come with a power supply?
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It sure does!
Can any of you electrical wizards look at this video and determine if I can get the MIMO to work with it, assuming the power supply of the MIMO and valve were separate? Also assume the valve will not continue to draw power when told to open (although I am still checking on this). There are limit switches in another valve model, but Iām going to have to open mine to determine this (I think it has them).
Concerns of someone I am working withā¦
After reviewing both videos Iām still a little skeptical. The video for the 100-240 VAC āHTā model demonstrates the motor stopping when it reaches the closed position because of the actuatorās internal limit switches. It also mentions āAuxiliary Contacts (7-12) For Feedbackā.
However, the 12-24V āLTā video shows a less populated circuit board, and indicates, āThere are 2 auxiliary limit switch contacts (SPDT free contacts) available in the terminal block āGā that provide limit switch signals ā. To me, this seems to suggest that while the HT modelās contacts (7-12) are for feedback, the same contacts (7-12) in the āLTā model are for use as limit switches in the absence internal limits. It is difficult to know the exact timing and function of the āLTā switches without having hands on. In your existing configuration, these āLimitā switch contacts are wired back to the controller, giving me the impression that magic happens in the controller to turn off the power to the valve when either fully open or fully closed is reached. Without the limit switches, the motor would simply stall and continue to draw power 24x7x365 while the valve is in the open position. Most motors are not meant to do this, so bad things may happen.
There is a switch for full open and full closed. Once the actuator reaches the desired position it stops and no longer consumes power. (unless the heater turns on).
There are also two auxiliary limit switches that correspond with the switches mentioned above.
These allow you to confirm that you have reach the desired position.
The Neutral from your power supply will land on terminal 3 of the actuator. The Line voltage from this power supply must go to a single pole double throw switch so you can select between terminals 1 and 2. 1 is closed and 2 is open.
This is your wiring diagram for 24V AC.
Terminal 4 is the anti-condensation heater. It is not required for indoor humidity controlled environments.
Terminal 12 is your common for the open auxiliary switch. 12 and 11 will conect when the valvre is in the open position.
Terminal 7 is your common for the closed auiliary switch. 7 and 9 will connect when the valve reaches the closed position.
These auxiliary switched are rated as follows:
1A @ 240V AC and 1A @ 30V DC (resistive load)