Under Cabinet Lighting Project has gotten out of hand... Wife is more pleased than expected

OK, down to some specifics. I’m ordering LEDMY 24v, 2400K strips. Double LEDs. I’m probably getting their power supply kit (including some connectors, etc), but will use my Maestro dimmer . If you can recommend a good power supply that’s dimmable with the Maestro, that would be great. It’s amazing how little LED knowledge is out there. My lighting consultant has steered me wrong too many times on LEDs. I don’t trust him at all. The 2nd location will be on a different switch, line voltage, and probably just an LED puck for a 27" wide dry bar. All our cabinets will have the bottom recess covered, so the strips will be in diffused channels. The puck will be recessed too.

If you have a better power supply recommendation, I’d be happy to know. Not interested in a WIFI controller like the 801 you mentioned. Just hard wired to another Maestro dimmer. Have a great day!

Thanks,
Cory

Thanks for the quick response. Old lights were installed before I bought the house. Don’t know if AC or DC. Assuming DC. They’re connected to an outlet in the attic, and controlled by a Maestro DIVA LED dimmer wall switch. And I’ll have to check voltage because I don’t recall seeing a transformer, but would add a new one anyway. Understand dual setups or running another 12V wire. Might kill the idea of syncing the 2nd location. It doesn’t add much except complexity, and would be difficult to reach. We had to pull a wall cabinet to wire it the first time, and I have too much else going on. I’m a Class A contractor, and have a monster master bath project going on here, and prepping for an addition out the back plus new front and side entrances. Most pressing question for me was warm dim LED strips. Looks like Edge Lighting has what should work well, at a price I can afford, but I might try your double LED strips first.

Synthesis
July 16 |

What controls the 12v circuit to each cabinet? Additionally, is it 12v DC or 12v AC? A lot of low voltage circuits around the home are 12v AC. Landscape lighting is a prime example.Is there a wall switch that turns the cabinets on/off? If so, does it control a power supply for those cabinets, or is the switch itself between the power supply and the lights?We run our under cabinets at 100% brightness most of the time. They fade up, and fade off when activated by motion, or when turning them on/off. The fade is controlled by the line voltage GE Z-Wave dimmer in the wall which in turn controls the power brick in the cabinet. We get such a warm, even light that others have commented on our under cabinet lighting. They are shocked when I show it to them and tell them I DIYed it. I’ve even been asked to install the same setup sans the z-wave in other homes. If you have two locations that are isolated from each other that you want to control together, you have a couple of options. If you choose to duplicate what I’ve done, you will either need to run a low voltage wire through the attic/crawlspace/wall to the other location to run off the same circuit. Or, you will need to duplicate the entire setup in both locations and sync them.
The third option to consider is running just a low voltage LED controller. Something like the H801 in each location and sync them together in a smartapp. This is the cheapest option, but you lose physical control of the lights. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond.
In Reply To

CoryL
July 16 |

This is a BIG help. I’m looking for a great under cabinet solution since removing old 12V halogen lights. Not a big fan of LEDs primarily due to color temp, and the way they (cold) dim. Do you have any experience or research you can share on warm dim LED strips? I’ve been considering diffused LEDs, … Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond. To unsubscribe from these emails, click here.

So you’re in luck for dimming constant voltage power supplies though the price varies wildly…
https://www.amazon.com/24V-Dimmable-LED-Driver-Magnitude/dp/B00GBDV90K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503667924&sr=1-3&keywords=Constant+voltage+dimmer+24v

https://www.amazon.com/HERO-LED-PS-24LPS50-DIM-ETL-listed-Dimmable-Constant/dp/B01L1FXYU0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503667924&sr=1-4&keywords=Constant+voltage+dimmer+24v

https://www.amazon.com/24V-Dimmable-LED-Driver-M60L24DC-AR/dp/B00E0P6R1M/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503667924&sr=1-5&keywords=Constant+voltage+dimmer+24v

The top one is good for a LOT of lights… The middle one is capable of less, but may be all you need.

I just want to thank you for this wonderfully informative write up! Well done!

I just wanted to verify I had everything apart from gang boxes and wire etc. does my list look lm missing anything?

My list totals $168.45

Thanks!

That looks pretty good to me. You’ll want a good quality two conductor wire to run to each strip, something 16 guage. Additionally, running end to end (end of one strip to beginning of the next) with the wire works great, but if you can I’d suggest doing that for only a few strips before you run a second line from the power supply to start another section of light strips.

I ended up not using the mounting clips, and just used the 3M heavy duty outdoor double sided foam tape to hold my strips up. Installation was super easy. The end caps were what I really needed. One other piece I’d recommend. When cutting the channel, clip the lens in, wrap the strip with masking tape at the cut point, and use a very fine blade in the saw. You’ll get nice and clean cuts.

Ok great. One more question where did you wire the switch in sequence? It is controlling the outlet that the weanas is plugged into correct?

Hot Feed - Dimmer Switch - New Outlet - Weanas controller - LED Strips

Exactly. The dimmer controls the new outlet. The Weanas plugs into the new outlet. From there, it’s just 12v all the way to the strips. I believe I have three discreet LED strip circuits that all lead back to the Weanas. Two/three LEDs per circuit. This was simply to ensure that I don’t overload the wire between the LEDs and the power supply.

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I finished installing my led cabinet lights and love how they turned out. But now when testing functionality I have run into an odd issue with smart lighting control in ST. The main kitchen light has two GE ZWave + switches and the cabinet lights run off of a GE ZWave + Paddle Dimmer Switch. My smart lighting rule triggers the cabinet lights to turn on when the main kitchen light turns on. This works flawlessly from ActionTiles, the ST app and through voice control with Alexa. Where I run into the issue is with a physical switch activation. The primary switch operates the kitchen light and the cabinet lights almost simultaneously, whereas the add on switch initiates a very long delay (8 seconds). Any suggestions? I’ve done a ZWave repair with no success. Thanks in advance for and suggestions and hopefully a solution!

Kitchen switches

Main Lights
GE ZWave +
(Primary) 14291
(Add On) 12723

Cabinet Lights
GE ZWave + Dimmer
14294

That looks amazing! Nice work!

I don’t have any insight into the delay issue you are encountering, sadly.

Thanks! Without your write up I wouldn’t have had the inspiration to do this automation. The wife sends many thanks your way!

I should share this as well. I picked up a couple different 6W and 7W LED bulbs to try in the microwave range light. My microwave has a high and low setting and on the low setting I had a flicker. so I decided to wired in some strip LED’s instead.

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This is something I’ve wondered about: what do microwaves do for dimming that light. The single LED replacements didn’t work? I was about to get one to try—now I think your idea is better: thanks!

Has anyone out there ever put an O’scope on a microwave lamp? Is it some kind of PWM waveform? Or simply a half-wave (diode) Dimmer? Curious…

@synthesis My GE Zwave Plus dimmer only dims between 1% & 60%. 60% to 100% is the same visual brightness. I believe we have the same dimmer switch and LED controller, have you noticed this with your setup? . I’m not sure if I have a bad switch or if the Weanas controller is causing this to occur.

I believe that is a bit of both the switch and the weanas. There is a very distinct difference between levels 1-60%. 61-100% is less noticeable to my eyes, though there is a difference at some of the higher levels, just less noticeable.

@Synthesis
Thanks for checking, makes me feel better that it isn’t just my setup

Can you provide the name/link to the strip LEDs under the microwave?

The LEDS are from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NHRW5K6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the controller is from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MOTDG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have them wired into my under cabinet lights, all controlled together.

Britain entered the arena

This all looked awesome, but I am over in the UK, so what should I do? Well, how about this:

Amazon UK
iolloi Zigbee LED Dimmer
2 Core Cable 1.5mm2 X 25m
LightingWill LED Aluminum Profile 04S 5X1M Silver + White
LightingWill End Caps (10 pack) for U04S
3M Power Tape, Heavy Duty
HALJIA Polyimide Tape
D-Line Square Box Cable Trunking

ultraleds.co.uk
12V Premium Tagra® Professional Slim Dimmable LED Driver, 150W 12.5A

Amazon US
LEDENET Warm White 5M Double Row 3528

Getting the LEDENET LEDs from the UK was a lot more expensive than getting them imported from the US which cost £27.50 including postage. At this point, there are brighter LEDs available, and other brands, so I could have (should have?) probably gone for them, but as this thread looked awesome, I thought I’d just copy it for now…!

Along the way I made a couple of mistakes, I tried the following driver:

YAYZA! Outdoor Waterproof IP67 12V 16.6A 200W Dimmable Low Voltage LED Driver

However I didn’t realize about the whole ‘leading edge’ vs ‘trailing edge’ and the YAYZA driver was leading edge only, whereas my light switch was trailing edge. So basically the dimming didn’t work. I also tried the following light switch:

Z-Wave TKB Single Paddle Wall Dimmer TZ55S - Gen5

However, there was a large delay before turning on/off, like over 5 seconds.

The learning lessons from this project:

  • My kitchen cabinets had wooden batons running along the bottom (about an inch up from the bottom of each cupboard). These batons ran the entire length of the cupboard. I didn’t want to route the cables inside the cupboards, but I got hold of an aeroplane/aviation drill bit (basically a foot long drill bit), and with this I was able to drill up behind the cupboard and make a hole through the baton. I already had various cable fishing rods for then getting the cable passed up there.
  • The cable I bought was too thick, too thick to fit in the trunking, too thick to go through my drilled holes. In the end, I peeled off the outside coating of the cable, so I had the two wires (both with their own coating of course) which were then easy to work with. I should have purchased a different cable, I wanted to get one which was 1.5mm2 as that is roughly AWG 14/15 and someone mentioned going for this something along these lines. I suspect it was quite an overkill, but in the grand scheme of things, it is a cheap part of the project, so I figured why not go overkill a little.
  • Putting some masking tape around the aluminium trunking with diffuser in, and then using a junior hacksaw to cut through, gave a very nice cut (as recommended by someone). I used a sanding block after to smooth it off, make sure it isn’t sharp, make sure it is nice and straight. But when they are done and the caps are on, you wouldn’t know they were a DIY cut job.
  • I have done very little soldering before. The trick seems to be to melt some solder onto the end of the wires, melt a blob of solder on the pad of the lights, then hold/push the wire onto the pad with pliers or similar, so the dry solder of each is making contact, then apply the soldering iron to the other side of the wire and gently push down. The solder for both the wire and on the LED then melts, the wire drops down, makes contact, and you remove the soldering iron, keep the pressure with the pliers for a few seconds, and you get a pretty solid solder.
  • Along the way of learning the above: if you melt off a soldering point on the LEDs, just soldering onto the next one along, you’ll still get lights in both directions of the solder point, you can carefully route the cables along the edge, so you don’t notice when they are turned on.

The end result is great:

A couple of shots looking up from below, I love the way the lights are made to measure and give nice consistent lighting.

IMG_20210703_222231

I wanted to say a massive thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread, in particular, @Synthesis for starting this thread. Without this thread I wouldn’t have had the confidence to start this project, it is by far the most complex DIY job I have taken on. I have learned a bunch of stuff along the way and will no doubt put me in a much better position to dream up, and work on, future DIY jobs.

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That looks absolutely stunning! You did a much better job at cleaning up the wiring than I did. In fact, after my last post showing the wiring hanging down in some spots… it just never really got cleaned up any further from there. lol

Nicely done!

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