Under Cabinet Lighting Project has gotten out of hand... Wife is more pleased than expected

My wife: “What the hell are you sticking to the door frame?!?”

Me: “Just hold on, I got a random idea and if you don’t like it afterwards it was just $20 and I can peel it off now or after the holidays…”

Wife later that night looking from the yard: “Oooo… That looks really fancy with my wreath, leave it up!”

Me: nerd victory dance


Ah a kindred spirit, I used to have an SRX-650 until I realized how much electricity and heat it was creating, downsized to a measly little SRX-100. I had two 20amp circuits in my wiring closet, used to use probably 12-15a constant, downsizing over the last ten years and my switches and servers take less than 3amp now.

I can’t just open my office closet and keep warm in the winter anymore. :frowning:

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I applied your light idea to our front door this evening and have to say it has been a lot of fun watching the cars out front swerve as they stare at the door while it changes color in lava lamp mode.

I may need to pull the car onto the lawn to keep it safe.



Wow! With the way the glass in your door accents and works with the lights that looks really damn good!

I showed my wife your pictures and now she wants a fancier frosted glass door lol

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We found this one free on Craigslist. :slight_smile:
I spent an afternoon mortising hinges in. It sure beats our original 50s door.
We even did a full sand to bare metal and prime and paint.

My wife will NEVER see these pics…

but I’m doing my door like this. I have 4 sets of hue strips just sitting there doing nothing!!!

I used to do this at Christmas…


Getting further from the original topic with every post, but now I’m thinking about throwing an alternate color in the glass to counter the primary.
I’ve had the window out of the door and there is room to fit an LED strip around the perimeter shining into the glass…

This would be interesting to see what effect it would have…

How did you run power to the door and did you just stick the strip along the outside door jamb?

Right now I just have the wiring tucked in at the corner of the latch side of the door.
It runs along the floor board to where my Zigbee RGBW controller and power supply are plugged into a wall outlet. It isn’t pretty, but I can hide it away.
If I put the effort in, I could remove the baseboard, run the wire in the channel that’s behind it and then reinstall it carefully and no one would be the wiser that it was in there.

The strip is stuck to the door jamb between the storm and entry doors. The issue is that the adhesive is absolute garbage on the SuperNIGHT LEDs, so I used wire staples (white plastic with two nails) for affixing line voltage cabling to bridge over these. I spaced them so they weren’t covering any LEDs and then installed two or three per side.

I can get photos this evening if you’d like.
A friend of mine saw my cabinet lighting project when I posted on Facebook, then saw the LEDs I just did for the door last night. They want me to install LEDs in aluminum channel with diffusers for their door… So I may photo document that job once we start moving on it.

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Yes, that would be great. The lights look fantastic by the way.

I really like the door surround idea. I may have to do something like this.

Unfortunately my wife wont let me install lights around the front windows and leave them up all year for the different holidays.

Overall view, door open.

Have not yet mounted cable as I’ll be drilling some holes once I order aluminum channel.

Upper corner.

Adhesive isn’t working…

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My front door has a living room coat closet right beside it that houses my hub, modem, router, etc and I was able to lift the 6 inch or so piece of baseboard between them to actually really cleanly hide the wires.

And I placed some 3M VHB double sided tape at select places under the strip, especially in the corners, because as @Synthesis stated above the adhesive that comes on them does suck…

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I want to do this so I can have my side door flash red if motion is detected on the side porch when the system is armed. It would be nice to also play some kind of creepy music at the same time.

This would work well with a haunted routine to run when the system is armed and I’m away at night. . . .

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I am trying to understand how to wire this. So the five channels are R G B W1 W2. What do you mean by white on both sides independantly and color across the board? Does this mean you have two white only LED strips, one wired into W1 and the other in to W2 then a basic RGB LED strip wired into the RGB terminals? I think this is correct but how do you actually control them separately?

I have two strips of RGBW, both have RGB wired to their respective channels, each strips white goes to its own w1 or w2 channel. So I have dual white zones and one overall color zone. Creating the virtual devices gives individual control as needed in other apps

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This is a BIG help. I’m looking for a great under cabinet solution since removing old 12V halogen lights. Not a big fan of LEDs primarily due to color temp, and the way they (cold) dim. Do you have any experience or research you can share on warm dim LED strips? I’ve been considering diffused LEDs, and your story, along with some prodding from the wife) has prompted me to get off my butt and do something. I have an L configuration with the corner cabinet being an appliance garage. Left of that is a sink with nothing above, so there would be a gap of 42". Each cabinet, except the appliance garage has its own 12V wire, and I could light the garage too. I’ll be finishing the bottom recess to match the cabinets, which is the biggest reason I thought of diffused LED strips. I just did a Google search and discovered Lightology. I have about 18’ total for the L, including the appliance garage. Also have a 30" dry bar across the room that’s currently wired for line voltage. I’d like to tie in something to mimic the other side, and ideally match it, but 120V to be switched with directional recessed for the same side of the room. I could switch that light to be 12V, and tie it into everything else, but it’s more logical to have that on the line voltage switched leg we tapped into. Appreciate anything you can share.

What controls the 12v circuit to each cabinet? Additionally, is it 12v DC or 12v AC? A lot of low voltage circuits around the home are 12v AC. Landscape lighting is a prime example.

Is there a wall switch that turns the cabinets on/off? If so, does it control a power supply for those cabinets, or is the switch itself between the power supply and the lights?

We run our under cabinets at 100% brightness most of the time. They fade up, and fade off when activated by motion, or when turning them on/off. The fade is controlled by the line voltage GE Z-Wave dimmer in the wall which in turn controls the power brick in the cabinet. We get such a warm, even light that others have commented on our under cabinet lighting. They are shocked when I show it to them and tell them I DIYed it. I’ve even been asked to install the same setup sans the z-wave in other homes.

If you have two locations that are isolated from each other that you want to control together, you have a couple of options. If you choose to duplicate what I’ve done, you will either need to run a low voltage wire through the attic/crawlspace/wall to the other location to run off the same circuit. Or, you will need to duplicate the entire setup in both locations and sync them.
The third option to consider is running just a low voltage LED controller. Something like the H801 in each location and sync them together in a smartapp. This is the cheapest option, but you lose physical control of the lights.

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Thanks for the quick response. Old lights were installed before I bought the house. Don’t know if AC or DC. Assuming DC. They’re connected to an outlet in the attic, and controlled by a Maestro DIVA LED dimmer wall switch. And I’ll have to check voltage because I don’t recall seeing a transformer, but would add a new one anyway. Understand dual setups or running another 12V wire. Might kill the idea of syncing the 2nd location. It doesn’t add much except complexity, and would be difficult to reach. We had to pull a wall cabinet to wire it the first time, and I have too much else going on. I’m a Class A contractor, and have a monster master bath project going on here, and prepping for an addition out the back plus new front and side entrances. Most pressing question for me was warm dim LED strips. Looks like Edge Lighting has what should work well, at a price I can afford, but I might try your double LED strips first.