UltraPro Z-Wave switch without neutral?

Devices & Integrations
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I have several these UltraPro Z-Wave rocker switches installed (both as standalone and 3-way). They work great and are very reasonably priced!

I decided to upgrade another ceiling light circuit from dumb / manual switches to these. I have a new (8-year old) home, so neutrals run through the house in every box.

In this particular instance, I have 3 switches that control the ceiling lights. Two of the boxes have the neutral bundle in the back of the box; however, one of the switch boxes does not. Am I out of luck, or is there something going on that I might not be aware of, with respect to the neutral in the one switch box that does not have a neutral bundle in it? The wire with BLUE tape on it appears to be a WHITE wire wrapped in black electrical tape. Switch #1:

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Switch #2: Pretty typical to the rest of the house, and clearly has the neutral bundle in be back of the box.

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SWTICH 3: Also pretty typical of the rest of the house. It’s pretty tight (shares the line power with the adjacent light switch), and the neutral bundle can be seen in the back of the box.)

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I know how to install the second and third switch, but I’m not sure about that first switch, since I don’t see a neutral bundle in the back of the switch box.

Appreciate any help…

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What does Switch #1 actually control? Can you trace the blue/black tape wire to determine where it goes/comes from? If not in use, perhaps you can tie it into the neutral of another location or perhaps it even ties in already.

If you don’t have a netural, there are smart switches that work without a neutral. For example, Jasco makes a no-neutral Z-Wave dimmer switch.

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Building codes in most US jurisdictions do not mandate most wire colors, so you can’t go by that. You need to map the circuits to see what’s really going on.

Many Home Depot’s offer a free course on how to install a light switch. Although it doesn’t apply to smart switches specifically, you will learn the basics of switch wiring and the tools used to test the wires, which will be useful.

As to smart switches specifically, if the model says it requires a neutral, it requires a neutral. And in those devices, the neutral is used to power the radio inside the switch, so that it can hear the next “on“ command from the network.

If The switch is used as part of a three-way set up, don’t use a neutral from another circuit or things won’t work correctly. But you may be able to fish one up from elsewhere on the same circuit branch.

Otherwise There are some no-neutral smart devices made by Jasco (who make the ultra pro, GE, enbrighten, and Homeseer Z wave lighting devices). Just because of physics, this is easier to do with a dimmer than with a binary on/off switch, so if you could use a dimmer in that location, that may be your best bet.

Another alternative is to go to the lighting fixture itself, and see if there’s a neutral there, or find a junction box on that same circuit branch, and then install a lighting module at that location, but that’s more work and the wall switch may end up not working the way you’re used to, so I mention it as a possibility but I think getting a no neutral model from Jasco is going to be better for you.

Here’s one from enbrighten. Ezzwave is their website that covers all the Jasco brands. Shop around as you can probably find the same model at a somewhat lower price at a regular retailer.

Here’s the link to the same model that @h0ckeysk8er mentioned.

Jasco also makes one under the Homeseer brand with slightly different features. The Homeseer company has released the custom edge Driver you will need to manage the fancy colored LEDs on it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JYK87JK/

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Further on what @JDRoberts was saying, if you do attempt to use a neutral from another circuit and you have ground fault breakers in your electrical panel, you will likely have instances of “mysterious” tripping of one or more circuit breakers! Take the time to make sure you understand the correct wiring. (If the circuit contains no outlets–only lighting–it may not have a ground fault breaker. But it still isn’t the correct thing to do!)

Disclaimer: I’m not a licensed electrician and not totally familiar with the current electrical code. If in doubt about anything, you might wish to engage a licensed electrician to help you sort it out!

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Tagging @ritchierich Because he has helped me with wiring issues in the past.

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Noticed this in the back of switch 2:

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Where is the light fixture in relation to this box versus the others?

Is that a black and white wire bundled together circled with a wire nut? The key to 3+ way switches is the switches with 3 wires where one of the screws will be a different color, black screw in your case. This is the common wire and line from breaker will be on one of the 3 way switches and load will be on the other. This doesn’t mean that load and line are in those boxes as it can be “sent” to another box. Switch 1 has a black screw for the wire you mentioned is white but taped black. I believe this might be that white wire circled above and that would be load to the fixture which is why I ask where is the fixture in relation to Switch 2.

To test my theory unbundle the circled set of wires and see if the light turns on. If not there is your load. Given the UltraPro Aux switches only use 2 wires, you will be able to make this work.

Please tag me with your testing results and I can suggest wiring from there.

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