I was wondering if someone had any recommendations on replacing my Samsung Hub V1. Apparently, Samsung ended support on the V1 hub without emailing me. Please let me know what is the best avenue on a replacement. I have older Zwave switches and devices. Any help is much appreciated.
If you like smartthings, the recommended replacement is the new Aeotec “works as a smartthings hub“ model. It’s essentially a rebadged version of the V3 hub.
There are lots of threads in the forum about it and the migration.
If you’re sticking with SmartThings you’re looking for a ST v3 hub or an aeotec SmartThings hub. (they’re the same exact device, ST is getting out of the hardware game and partnered with Aeotec to manufacture the hub)
while you probably wont find any retailers selling the hub v3, ebay sellers still have them for sale for around $70+ (prices on individual ST items have started going up). usually you can get a better over all deal buying the hub with a couple of sensors.
I finally received the Aeotec Smart Home Hub to replace my SmartThings v1.0 hub. I am having issues getting my devices to sync to the new hub. Nothing is working. Is there any directions on getting these Zwave devices to sync?
Perform a z-wave exclusion on the devices. You can do this with the new hub. In the ST app, go to the Devices section, click on the menu in the upper left of the screen, select All Devices, locate your hub and open it, click on the 3 dots in the upper right of the screen and open z-wave utilities. After excluding the devices, try to pair them
There are no devices showing up in the exclusion. So I am trying to exclude one device with up/down on the switch and see if it works. Is there a way to reset the switch manually?
You’re doing a general exclusion between a hub and a device that Have never talked to each other before. They don’t really know anything about each other. For example, the device does not have a device ID on the network yet.
General Exclusion is always two steps.
One) you will have the hub (any zwave hub, it doesn’t have to have previously been connected to the device) Broadcast the general exclusion command. This is just going out to the area, any Z wave device that can hear it might act on it.
obviously, we don’t want devices excluding themselves if those weren’t the ones we wanted excluded. So the second step is normally to perform some physical tap pattern on the device itself. This has to be done while the hub is doing the broadcast of the general exclusion command. So the timing does matter.
The Tap pattern can be anything the manufacturer wanted it to be. It could be a single turn on or off of the device, it could be a triple tap on the top followed by a double tap on the bottom, honestly anything. It’s up to each manufacturer to decide for each model what they want the exclusion pattern to be. (Note that the device must be on power and in range of the hub in order to hear the General exclusion command when it is broadcast. Newer Z wave plus devices can usually accept a general exclusion that is being re-broadcast by a repeater device, but older Z wave classic devices may have to be moved so that the device is within one hop of the hub. Or you might have to move the hub to be close to the device.)
The only way to find out what the exclusion pattern is for any individual device is to look it up in the user manual for that device. It should say. If it doesn’t say anything, try just a single turn on if it’s off or turn off if it’s on, but there are only a few devices that don’t specify. (Some of the older GE switches do fall into this category.)
Most devices will have some kind of indicator LED that will blink in a special way once the device has been excluded, but not all do.
Once the exclusion successful, then you can just add it like it was a brand new device.
Unfortunately, there’s no easy way to do a bunch of devices at once with smartthings. You just have to go through one by one.
Brand and model of the auxiliary switches? If it’s GE, the auxiliaries don’t have a radio in them, so they don’t get excluded but they don’t get added either. They just work via traveler wire to the master switch.