[RELEASE] Enhanced Z-Wave Plus Thermostat Device Handler - Honeywell, GoControl, CT, Linear, Trane, MCO, Remotec

Picked this thermostat up for $17 at Lowes on clearance this week - figured i can’t go wrong for that price!

Are there any suggestions for troubleshooting a battery “null %” showing up in the smartthings app (under this device), and that it hasn’t updated the clock yet? I first connected to the hub yesterday, and it is now roughly 30 hours since then without update for clock or battery status. I figured maybe it needs a full 24 hours prior to it auto-updating the clock.


EDIT: I did buy the enhanced version of the DH, and that is what i am using. Copied the code into a new DH before adding the device to the hub.

Replying to my own comment…

It finally updated overnight - battery, time, and humidity are showing now (about 2 hours after i posted the issue here). I am going to start posting here more, since my problems solve themselves when I do!


Jeff, which thermostat did you pick up at Lowes? was it the CT-101-L? I just picked one up at Lowes for a very good price too. I have not yet installed it. I’ve been reading all I can about this thermostat and I was a little concerned about the numerous bad reviews on the Lowes website (some of them reporting potentially serious / dangerous malfunctions). I am debating as to whether I should install it or not.

Did you use RBoy’s DH right off the bat or did you first install it using the native DH in Smartthings? Any “gotchas” or quirks I need to be aware of when installing it?

Yes that is the same one I got. The price was as low as $14 or $14.50, but at my local store it rang up at $17 instead, and I didn’t notice until I was at home (and I am not going to argue with them over $3).

I went straight to the Rboy DH - never tried the standard one. I set up the smart app too that lets you set a “normal” schedule like my old thermostat did (weekdays/weekends, with wake up, departure, arrival, and bed time settings.

My only issue so far was that it didn’t set the time automatically or report battery levels. I used the AA batteries that came in the package, but they were dated with 2018 expiration dates. Now that battery level has started appearing, it has dropped from 95% on 9/9/18 to 92% on 9/15/18. I have a webcore piston that notifies me if certain battery levels reach a certain threshold, so I am counting on that to make sure I change batteries in time.

I do see that it disconnects from the hub occasionally (via the api web interface), but it reconnects within minutes/seconds. Not sure if this is normal behavior.

I picked up 5 of the CT-101-L thermostats from Lowe’s on clearance as well. They also have the GoControl on clearance around here for $20. I originally picked up 5 of those but liked the CT-101-L interface better plus the GoControl doesn’t report humidity so I returned them.

I have mine hooked up to the c-wire so updates are pretty quick. When paired initially when powered by battery only, the z-wave radio doesn’t stay on all the time and doesn’t act as a repeater. I believe it’s mentioned above somewhere that when powered by battery only, battery polling doesn’t occur as it would reduce battery life significantly to poll constantly. It’s best to power by c-wire and to pair by c-wire. If you paired by battery only and switch to c-wire, you have to network exclude and remove the device pairing then repair while attached to c-wire. This will keep the z-wave radio on all the time and act as a repeater.

So far, the only problem I’ve had with them was due to the SmartThings outage on 9/13 - 9/14. My custom programs couldn’t be transmitted to the thermostats at the configured time so the temps never changed. I haven’t had any problems since the outage was resolved. Also haven’t had any problems with the clock being set, also probably because of running on c-wire and not battery.

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Nicely summarized, this was the post you were referring to above. These thermostats shine when on C-Wire. Alkaline batteries on the other hand tend to last about 2-4 months depending on usage and the mesh quality and should be within 30-50ft of another z-wave repeater device. There is an option battery save mode in DTH preferences page which reduces polling requests from the platform to save battery. Using 1.5v lithium batteries can double/triple that lifespan but you need to watch the battery dead reporting threshold which will be higher than that for Alkaline batteries. You can also check out the [RELEASE] Configurable Low Battery Warning/Notification/Monitor and Device Monitoring Alerts app which is tuned for creating configurable low battery rules.

For folks who don’t have a c-wire option on their the HVAC wiring, check our the Venstar add on which can create and extra wire/C-Wire by using your existing wiring.

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Enhanced Z-Wave Thermostat with Temperature, Humidity and Auto Time setting - Version 04.03.00

  • Thermostats controls for CTxxx/GoControl/Linear etc can now be locked (full/partial) and unlocked remotely

Tap the refresh tile and if your thermostat supports this feature it will show up.

Key features of enhanced DTH:

  • Supports secure inclusion and encrypted communication for Z-Wave Plus thermostats
  • Battery saver option to extend battery life
  • Synchronizing SmartThings dead-band settings with thermostat (default is 1°)
  • Fix for ST Celsius scale bug
  • Patches for firmware bugs
    • CT-xxx incorrect date
    • CT-xxx auto switch over
    • CT-xxx state synchronization
  • Customize thermostat settings (CT-xxx and ZTS-xxx)
    • Temperature reporting threshold
    • Temperature swing threshold
  • Lock (partial/full) and unlock controls
  • Show fan state (running or off even when set to Auto mode)
  • Humidity
  • Battery
  • Clock
  • Heat/Cool temperature settings
  • Auto detect supported thermostat modes
    • Off
    • Auto
    • Heat
    • Cool
    • Emergency heat
  • Auto detect supported fan modes
    • Off
    • On
    • Auto
    • Circulate
  • Thermostat models tested:
    • CT-xxx Z-Wave
    • CT-xxx Z-Wave Plus
    • ZTS-1xx Z-Wave
    • ZTS-5xx Z-Wave
    • GoControl Z-Wave
    • Vivint Z-Wave
    • Lowes Z-Wave
    • Filtrete 3M Z-Wave
    • Honeywell Z-Wave
    • APX Z-Wave

It will only show C-Wire if the thermostat was paired with the hub in repeater mode (i.e. with the C-Wire connected) otherwise it shows the battery level.

I see that there are ‘Partial’ & ‘Full’ locked modes as well as ‘Unlocked’ mode. Can you provide any details of what each mode allows, etc?

The unlocked mode is the normal mode of operation where the user has unrestricted access to the physical thermostat controls.

The Partial locked mode allows the user to change the temperature settings on the physical thermostat control but can’t access the Menu controls.

Fully locked means that all controls on the physical thermostat are disabled.

This setting has no affect on the remote/zwave controls and is used to limit physical access to the thermostat (e.g. guest/child lock)


Thank you Maddie

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I have an issue with my CT-100 Plus where when I first pair the thermostat to my hub, it shows:

[heat, cool, auto, off]

After some time, however, it switches to this:

[heat, cool, off]

Once that happens, I no longer have access to the auto thermostat mode… Is there anything I can do to address this? It’s been happening for a while but I didn’t realize I could post here for support.

Thanks in advance for your help!

That’s odd, your thermostat starts off reporting all 4 capabilities and then decides to report that it only supports 3.

Try these two things:

  1. Use the latest DTH and click refresh
  2. Reset your thermostat (without excluding it), remove the cover and with a pin press the reset button on the left top corner. Then click the refresh tile to reinitialize your thermostat
  3. If that fails, try to exclude, reset and then re-pair using the latest DTH

Yes, interestingly enough, it’s only reporting the three capabilities but I can switch to Auto on the thermostat itself, but the thermostatMode is then reported as either cool or heat and auto is still not an option in supportedThermostatModes.

Resetting the thermostat worked in terms of getting auto back as an option. As an FYI, this worked in the past as well, but at some point the thermostat decides not to advertise that mode anymore. Anyway, I will keep an eye on it and let you know if it happens again. Thanks!

I installed the most up to date code for this and I am noticing some different behavior, not sure if it is “bad” or not, but different. When I used to refresh the device on the SmartThings app I would see that the date / time got pushed to the thermostat, that is no longer happening. Was this removed as a feature?

Just checked, it’s working fine here.

Definitely not working here on any of my three CT101s.

EDIT: I think you’re referring to not seeing it “log” that the clock is being set in the “Recently” tab. That Logging was removed to reduce clutter but I guess we’ll add it back in the next update to avoid confusion. Nevertheless the clock is still being set.

I would suggest resetting your thermostats and rebooting your hub. After hitting the reset button just tap refresh a few times to resync the thermostat settings.
The DTH sends out the clock synchronize command when you click Refresh. Mesh issues are typically the reason when things suddenly start acting up. Thermostats on the C-Wire, adding repeaters closer to them etc help with mitigating mesh degradation. You may have dig around to see what’s going on with the mesh, the clock synchronization code hasn’t changed.

Thanks. One question before I do that, any chance I can get a copy of the older code and just see what happens? I was previously using version 04.02.00.

I added my CT-200 Z-wave plus Vivint Element that was left here without a controller when I bought the house. I was able to discover the device when I factory reset it, but its not receiving any data from the thermostat (see photo). I have version 4.03.01 DTH and 5-2 Day thermostat smartapp. What am I doing wrong?

Nothing you’re doing wrong. The device doesn’t look like it’s communicating with the hub. Try a few things:

  1. Bring the hub closer
  2. Add a repeater between it and the hub
  3. Connect a C-Wire to it, exclude and re pair the device
  4. Reboot the hub and Tap refresh a couple of times

Basically you should see events in the recently tab, if it’s blank the device isn’t communicating