Pool pump relay help for newbie


(kenfeyl) #1

Hi all,

I would like to set up Z wave switches in SmartThings for my Hayward SP2603VSP pool pump. Apparently, it has three external 24V relays that can be used to control the speed of the pump to one of eight presets (p. 16):

https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/super-pump-vs-S2603VSP.pdf

Now I am trying to figure out what products I need to get Z-wave control of these relays. I see lots of relay products (wet/dry/isolated contact, SPDT, DPDT, etc.) and I am confused. Can someone point me in the right direction? I’m not cost-sensitive and would prefer the most convenient approach. However, SmartThings control is a must-have (which is why I am not getting one of the commercial setups).

As far as background, the extent of my own electrical experience is replacing all the switches in my home with GE 12722s and 12724s, so I’ve done some basic wiring, but know nothing about relays.

Ken


(Robin) #2

You will be switching 12v (powered from the pumps RS485 terminal’s 12v and COM) and therefore you’ll need dry contact relay switches.

IMG_2339

What country are you in?

I would suggest 3nr Fibaro relay switches (FGS 212) but, if available in your country, they won’t come cheap. Unlike most Zwave switches, they can switch any load (dry contact) and I find them super reliable.

There are other dry contact relay switches available but, due to the proximity to your pump house, you need to be selecting modules (rather than ones with built in switches) so they can be placed inside a waterproof junction box. If desired you can connect waterproof switches to the modules and bring them through the case of the junction box using rubber seals to form a control panel.

In regards to the control / software side of things, the 3 switches provide a binary code to the pump allowing for 8 speeds:

IMG_2338

I would use a simulated dimmer switch in ST and a webCoRE piston that uses switch case:

The above piston will synchronise the dimmer level to the pump speed, giving easy control.

If money is no object, you could install a real Zwave dimmer switch in the control panel (connected to a voltage gauge) for physical control and visual feedback.


(kenfeyl) #3

Many thanks! I am based in the US. I had trouble finding the FGS 212. An Amazon search reveals an FGS 213 (https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-FGS-213-ZW5-US-Single/dp/B01M67U7RT/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501723093&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=FGS+212+fibaro), but not 212. I tried searching online, but the only results coming back are from UK sites.

Using your information, I went looking for some other options. I found something called the Mimolite (https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wave-Multi-Input-Output-Contact/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501723152&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+dry+contact+module) that claims to be able to do 12v – would it work and be able to be placed in the junction box?

I found a couple others – the FS20z (https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501723228&sr=1-2-fkmr3&keywords=12v+dry+contact+module+zwave) and Remotec (https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501723341&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=12v+dry+contact+module+zwave) – but, from what I can tell, they require 120V power.

Are there others I am missing?

Thanks for the pointers on the software side too. You are a great help!

Ken


(Robin) #4

The mimolite is a very expensive way of doing things… especially as you need 3 of them.

The remotec will be a good choice, it needs mains voltage supply but can switch any voltage through the relay side (dry contact) of the device. This is the same as the Fibaro so nothing unusual.

Of course the other option is to take regular Zwave light switches / modules and hook them up to a dumb relay instead of a regular load. This would give you the dry contacts you need:


(kenfeyl) #5

Robin,

Many thanks. One last question: is the Mimolite the only option that is able to take 12V power from the pump itself? It would be nice if I didn’t have to run additional wires out to my breaker, given that the pump has 12V power itself. Thanks.

Ken


(Robin) #6

You might be able to use a Fibaro RGBW module, powered off 12v and has 4 independently switchable outputs…

I didn’t reccomend it before as each channel is dimmable so not ideal, but the handler and / or device parameters could be tweaked to always force 100% on each channel.