One Switchleg, Two Devices?

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Brainstorm requested!

I am installing a ceiling fan that has its own remote control (IR).
I want to be able to control the LIGHT from a Z-Wave switch.
I’m willing to control the fan on/off and speed control from the OEM WALL remote.

I have a 12/2 romex from the switch-box to the ceiling-box.
I’m thinking about using a Z-Wave PLUS ZWN-RSM2 Smart Dual Relay Switch in the ceiling-box.
[ https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME ]
This would allow me to “split” the power [LOAD 1] & [LOAD 2] for the Light and the Fan.

I can pigtail the POWER-IN in the switch-box to power the Z-WAVE switch & FAN OEM WALL remote separately; which would solve all problems on the switch-box side – since the FAN OEM WALL remote transmitter uses IR, it does not require a LOAD side wire to the ceiling-box. The LIGHT, however, does require a SWITCHLEG from the switch-box to the ceiling-box.

Out of the Z-Wave PLUS ZWN-RSM2, [LOAD 1] will be the light & [LOAD 2] will be the fan OEM RECEIVER. Out of the Fan OEM RECEIVER, I will bypass the BLACK light wire directly into the light.

Here is the problem: Since I only have 1 usable (HOT) wire from the switch-box to the ceiling-box; the LOAD from the Z-WAVE switch to the ceiling-box will cease when I turn off the light. Thus, The BLUE Fan wire will derive power from the switch box LOAD.

In the end, does anyone know of any devices for either or both sides of the load wire to create two independent constant hot loads? =)

Sorry for the rambling…

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First things first: The physics of controlling a light and controlling a variable speed motor are really different. I’d be very surprised if that relay is rated to control the fan motor as anything other than on/off, if that.

But @Navat604 or one of the other electrical experts in the community can say more.

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I see your problem. The first question is. Are you saying your power source from the circuit breaker comes to the switch box first? If that’s the case then cutting power to the fan power from the switch box. Not only your light will be not be operational but also your IR remote as well since the fan needs constant power for the remote to work.
Check the spec of the fan as power consumption could also be an issue as stated by @JDRoberts.
If you could provide us with your wiring configuration and the fan brand and model then it would be much easier to brainstorm.

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