Need help with a Smart switch for 1500W power heaters

I don’t see a problem unless the switch is cutting the 120V power to the Sonoff. Where is the switch physically now in relationship to the existing Stelpro SWT1? Basically the Sonoff will be replacing the NO contact of the Stelpro and isn’t going to be messing around with anything else. If you have a picture post it of the setup you currently have.

Are you planning to install a temp sensor to the Sonoff for doing SmartThings temperature control or is there one already on ST for you to control from?

@Navat604
It looks like it’s in line voltage

@dalec

The Stelpro is above the switch (I’ll be changing it to a regular non programmable one). I won’t be using a temp sensor. We don’t generally keep the heat on for very long in there, it’s only for an hr at most. We start it up about 20 mins before getting in there so it’s at a comfortable temp and then turn it off within an hr - it’s our garage gym. Would love to be able to program it so that it automatically shuts off after an hr any time it turns on (manual via wall switch or through sonoff).

Pic below:

[quote=“Bmank53, post:23, topic:79235”]
The Stelpro is above the switch (I’ll be changing it to a regular non programmable one). I won’t be using a temp sensor.
[/quote] So if I understand you correctly now, you want to change out the existing Stelpro to the Sonoff WiFi switch. I can’t tell from your photo for certain but at your Stelpro box you should have your 240v power coming in and a second pair of wires going out to the wall heaters. And I am also assuming there will be a third pair that exits the box going below to the wall switch.

Does your manual wall switch kill the power to the Stepro (the display blanks out) or just override the heater OFF? It could work the same way with the Sonoff. FYI: When the Sonoff electronics are out of its’ white enclosure it has a chance of fitting inside your existing single gang box?

Just in case you want another option. Stelpro does make a z-wave Thermostat and on Amazon.ca for around $90 CAD. You missed a sale couple weeks ago for $20 CAD.

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I’d like to keep the stelpro to change temp manually. There is only one set of wires coming into the gang box behind the stelpro. There’s no display on the stelpro so I can’t tell if it kills the power to it.

There are 3 sets of wires behind the switch though. Pic below.

I read on their site that it’s not meant for units with motor and fans

This thermostat is NOT compatible with the following installations
• Inductive load
• Central Heating System
• Fan-forced heater (unit containing motor and fan)
• Heating load outside the specified ratings (Refer to section ‘’Technical Specifications’’)

THIS is the way to go!! I just looked up the Stelpro STZ402. I think that is the one that works great in your application ( assuming it talks to SmartThings. ) The comment about the fan doesn’t apply to you. Some systems use forced air fan to move the heat from the baseboard element and this thermostat isn’t setup to control that. You only have a baseboard heater correct? I am recommending this is the right solution to go with so you aren’t trying to customize something that doesn’t really fit as well as the Stelpro.

I don’t have a baseboard heater, I have 2 wall heaters - dimplex TWH1531CW. Will it work with the wall heaters?

I really just wanted a wall switch that could be controlled by an app and at the physical location. A smart wall switch that will work with 240v and 3000W.

ummm that model is forced air… according to the specs on the Stelpro it says “No” :head_bandage: I am not sure why this is so but I will fire off an email to Stelpro and ask what is up.

My bad for posting before asking as well. Force Air heater usually shuts the heat element off first and keep the fan running for a couple minutes to cool down the heater that’s why you can’t use this thermostat. On the other hand. Does your heater operate that way or the electrician wired to shut everything off?

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I hear you. OK we really need to know exactly the way your system is wired at the override switch now. You said earlier that it is 120v? Is it possible to get me a part number of that switch? If you have the wiring diagram of what the electrician did we can solve this pretty easily. I am interested in exactly how that timer is wired in your circuit because that might be the easiest way to give you the automation you want.