SmartThings Community

My Iris to Smartthings migration experience

afteriris
(Lee Florack) #21

OK. Thank you.

I think where I was getting crossed up is that I was equating communicating to the hub with being linked to the hub. If I’m now correct (let me know if I’m still wrong), the device being excluded only needs to be communicating with the hub - but it doesn’t need to be a device that’s previously been actually linked to the hub - although it’s OK if it was and the proper way to remove an existing device from your hub and allow it to be relinked to the same (or different) hub.

Hopefully, I got that right.

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#22

Yup, correct. Distance could still be an issue if the device needs to communicate a far distance to the hub, but I’ve not had that issue before. Seems like excluding a device is a heck of a lot easier than joining one.

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(Big Hoss) #23

Update for all to see. Still a couple of minor wrinkles to work out.

#1. I am not sure how to, with ADT Tools 2 installed and configured, exclude my Iris contact and motion sensors, or even include or exclude any particular sensors from say armed stay mode. I don’t want the alarm going off if my wife goes into the garage at 2 am, I just want to know it happened… I probably misconfigured something.

#2. I am not sure how to do it, but I understand there is a way to get the firrst generation Iris outdoor cameras talking to Smartthings, I would like to reuse my OC821s, triggered by alarm events to record certain areas inside the house…

(Big Hoss) #24

Okay so status updates. NO I am not going to let folks go without udpates. I am a firm believer in getting information that can potentially help others out as I get it. So here goes.

On the Iris sensors issue, I was getting errant alarm trips from indoor sensors tripping the alarm when it should have just sent notices, not alerts, and certainly not triggering my sirens and lights…

Following the push notifications it looks like I had a hickey with Smart Home Monitor doing stuff that shouldn’t have been going on. But I think I know how to get around it now. Will test tonight.

I am having problems with the Iris OC821s. Given that the Wyze cameras are $19.99 each, and are reported to easily integrate to SmartThings, I’m not filthy rich, but my time has value, so I may just bail out on the Iris cameras in favor of the Wyze cam anyway. Better camera anyway. The OC821s are not even 1080p… And the frame rate is abysmal… Something like 5fps… Bleh.

I have a Zigbee Ceiling Fan / Light controller coming in tomorrow, will be installing later this week…

My SmartLIghts smartapp is doing what I want it to.

ADT Tools 2 is giving me the features I want. When an alarm IS tripped, the hub siren, and both utilitech sirens go off, all available lights come on. I am still trying to figure out how to access the sirens on the Ring cameras…

Moving forward, and after discussing my needs / desires with my wife, and folks here RE: the technolgoy, I am thinking of the follwoing.

#1. Each bedroom gets a Zigbee outlet closest to the bed to power the bed side lamps and extend the mesh network.
#2. Each non ceiling fan light fixture gets a smart switch. probably Zwave for lower cost, and to improve the mesh network for that as ZigBee is covered by the outlets. This will include 2 locations that will require 3 way switching.
#3. Grow my Echo Dot collection from 2, to 6 Echo devices for voice control and Alexa Guard functionality throughout the house. (Paranoia be darned!). I am considering the regular echo, paired with an Echo sub for both the master bedroom, and living room. Echo dots for the other 3 remaining bedrooms, and one for the workshop.(how do I protect an Echo Dot from heat, humidity, and wood dust?)
#4. As I go along, the fixtures that for now have the smart light bulbs in them, will be converted to smart switches, with standard bulbs. I am not doing the RGBW thing, just on / off / dim. I am planning on RGBW light strips under my kitchen cabinets, and built into the bathroom mirror surround for ambient mood lighting for those spaces. Probably do the same for the space behind the TV in the living room… Nothing quite like watching Star Trek with a green glow around the outside of the screen ya know!

So from this point, what’s in place, and what’s the plan moving forward and why?

In place or on the way to be in place by the end of this week.
ADT ST security hub.
17 @ ADT ST Door and Window Detectors.
2 of the above listed detectors configured as overhead door tilt sensors and working flawlessly.
ADT ST Motion sensor. Debating adding more for additional triggers.
Iris 3rd generation ZigBee smart plug.
4 @ Sylvania Smart + on / off / dim smart bulbs in 2 fixtures. These are a temporary solution at best. I do not want to have to reconfigure / unjoin / join light bulbs every time one goes out.
2 @ Ring spotlight camera wired
Ring floodlight camera
Ring Video doorbell 2.
2 @ Amazon Echo Dot
2 @ Amazon Fire TV Stick with Alexa. (4 Alexa points of control).
2 @ Utilitech 85 db (100 adjustable) indoor siren.

Working on this week.
Hampton Bay ZigBee ceiling fan / light controller.
2 @ Iris 2nd generation contact sensors for infomration only, NOT alerting.
1 @ Iris 2nd generation motion sensor.

Goals moving forward and time, energy, and most importantly budget become avaialble.

9 @ Securifi Peanut Smart Plug ZigBee. 1 for each nightstand lamp, 1 for each living room lamp. Reuse the Iris ZigBee Smart Plug for one of these applications. Currently in the kitchen to turn a kitchen light on to simulate presence, not needed once we…

Additional ceiling fan / light controllers for the 3 remaining bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and master bath vanity.

Zwave switches for lights not associated with a celing fan this would include.
Bedroom hall, front porch, (excluding back porch due to the Ring floodlight camera), both commode / shower rooms, and master vanity over mirror.
Zwave 3 way switch sets for main vanity over mirror, and front hallway.

RGBW Light strips. Not decided on make / model etc… But I am wanting RGBW light strips for ambient lighting under the overhead kitchen cabinets, and as back lighting / ambient lighting behind the mirror surrounds in both bathroom vanities, and behind the TV in the living room. Probably but not 100% certain I am looking at the Sylvania Smart + Full Color Outdoor Flex Strip. Heck, if they are durable enough, and affordable enough, I might just do these under the soffits and around the windows for permanent party / holiday lighting…

2 Amazon Echo 2nd generation, and Echo sub. One for master suite, one for living room to improve sound, and extend Alexa.
3 Amazon Echo Dot 3rd generation to complete Alexa extension through house. Pending decision on if Alexa Guard is extended to 2nd generation Echo Dot.

Not sure how much more time I am going to pour into getting the Iris OC821 cameras working. May just factory reset them and sell them off. They work, and I can get them into ST, but I don’t like the video quality out of them. Probably going to go with 6 Wyze Cams and 2 outdoor Wyze cam enclosures. Use the 2 outdoor units to elimintate the blind spots in my property coverage. To get to the blind spots isn’t “blind” so not a huge rush.

Assuming they will work, 2 @ Orbit B-Hyve 21004 smart hose faucet timer WiFi. ST or not, I am going with these as I want remote control of my hose bibs. I can’t afford in ground sprinkler rigs and the permitting required in my town. During watering season, I set up my sprinklers and leave them. No permit required if I stay above ground! I know cheesy, but it’s what it is…

Not sure if I need the ADT branded ones, or if the regular SmartThings ones will work, but I also want to add leak sensors under each sink (4) by each toilet (2) in the laundry room where the water heater is (1) and in the garage where the water softener is (1) for a total of 8…

Lastly, since I am already invested in the Amazon Echo / Alexa ecosystem, I am going to add 1 more Fire TV Stick, 1 Fire TV Stick 4K, and the 4 tuner FireTV Recast. (Master Bedroom, each bedroom, the the FireTV Recast in the living room.

There is one function I am trying to figure out, and that is I want an actual phone call, along with the push notification, and text message, when an alarm is triggered. I know it’s doable, but how?

I’ve got a good start, but I have a long way to go.

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(Big Hoss) #25

UPDATE:

I have integrated the 2nd generation Iris contact, and motion sensors without much drama.

Simply put, I have rules set up that when the contact sensor opens, or motion is detected, I get a Text message saying that the specific monitored room (Office, Workshop) has been accessed. This is the behavior I want. Triggering an alarm is NOT what I want these sensors to do…

(Arn B) #26

You may want to take a look at my Smartapp SHM Delay 2.0, exit delays, entry delays, and much more.

(Mavrrick) #27

Are the sensors in the room dual branded ADT sensors. If they how are setup.

If they are iris sensors it get easy. You can configure ADT Tools Alert actions without a siren. Juat make sure you set them up as a non dual branded sensor alert.

(Big Hoss) #28

They are 2nd gen Iris sensors… And I have it working fine now. First time out of the box I had them somehow triggering SHM even though I was using Home Security and SHM disappeared…

(Big Hoss) #29

Another update. The first Hampton zigbee ceiling fan controller is installed and configured. Not super straightforward but once figured out, easily reproduced.

Works great now that I stopped shooting my foot.

Lots more to do, but I’ve got a great working system now…

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(David Scharf) #30

Glad to see a former iris user. Do you know if the gen2 iris motion sensors are capable of temperature readings in ST??

(Big Hoss) #31

You bet!

(Big Hoss) #32

Another update, I am continuing to develop the system as we go along I have 5 of the IKEA Tradfri smart plugs on their way and 9 more A19 Sylvania smart bulbs.

I will have much more coming as time and budget permit I am working on a more detailed project plan and budget so that I can squeeze everything I want to do in.

I am starting to get a little antsy for the Alexa guard feature to be enabled on my 2nd generation Echo dots although I am adding third generation echo dots and 2nd generation echo devices I don’t want to retire the 2nd generation Eco Dots as they are more appropriate for certain environments

(Jimmy) #33

I also forgot about that. Wonder what’s taking so long?

(Big Hoss) #34

Not sure. I cant even enable it on my 3rd gen echo dot…

(Big Hoss) #35

So the Iris 2nd gen motion sensor got moved to the laundry room. Once the bulbs come in, motion turns light on… 5 minutes no motion turns it off.

Hoping to source up more of these… I’d like to turn lights on dimmed with motion, say master bathroom, overnight, so the visitor to the toilet can see, but the other wont be woken up.

(Big Hoss) #36

Okay another update, here is the current status of the system, and any updates that have been purchased and are simply pending implementation…

ADT SmartThings Security Hub.
ADT SmartThings motion sensor.
17 @ ADT SmartThings Door and Window Detectors.
-2 configured as tilt sensors for garage doors.
-1 configured with multi stops to facilitate partial window open condition to permit temporary use of Window unit AC (my new system is getting installed in the next couple of weeks, but the temps are swinging high and low.)
Honeywell WiFi Smart Thermostat with Honeywell TCC Connect.
13 @ Sylvania Smart + A19 cool white on/off/dim 60 watt equivalent LED smart bulbs.
-1 in driveway lamp. Pending install.
-2 in front porch fixture.
-2 in laundry room fixture. Pending install.
-2 in front hall fixture.
-1 in bedroom hallway fixture. Pending install.
-1 in guest bedroom closet. Pending install.
-2 in main bathroom fixture. Pending install.
-2 in master bathroom fixture. Pending install.
5 Ikea Tradfri smart plugs. 2 in guest bedroom, 2 in master bedroom, 1 in kids bedroom. Pending install.
2 @ Iris 2nd generation door and window sensors. 1 at garage / house access door and 1 at home office / studio door.
Iris 2nd generation motion sensor in laundry room to control lighting.
Iris 3rd generation smart plug in office / studio. Pending move from kitchen once lighting job in kitchen done.
2 Ring spotlight camera wired.
Ring floodlight camera.
Ring video doorbell 2.
2 @ Utilitech indoor sirens.
2 @ second generation Echo Dots.
1 @ Third generation echo Dot.
2 @ FireTV Stick with 1st generation Alexa remote.
Hampton Bay ZigBee ceiling fan / light controller in guest bedroom.

SmartApps.
ADT Tools 2. This is set to trigger all available lights, and sirens under alarm conditions. Sends push notifications and text messages on alarm status.
Amazon Alexa integration.
Honeywell TCC Connect integration.
Open / Close sensor notifications for the Iris door and window sensors status. (DId someone go into the office, or workshop?).
Ring connect to provide support for Ring devices.
Weather smart app to tie in local weather.
SmartLighting. Rules for presence, arrival and leave. (after dark, phones arrive, turn driveway, porch, and front hall light on. Phones leave, turn them off…)
SmartLighting. Rules for time and sunrise / sunset. After dusk turn kitchen lamp on, at X time turn guest bedroom ceiling light on. At Y time turn them off… etc…
SmartLighting. Rules to turn laundry room light on with motion. Turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity. (Pending configuration, but scheduled for this week).
Alexa voice control over all functions excluding arm / disarm alarm.
Voice Control over entertainment. Mostly. Still can’t change between TV modes or change TV volume via Alexa yet…

My next steps are going to be to add a ceiling fan light kit, and Hampton Bay controller to the kitchen ceiling fan, swap the 3 speed in wall controller for a standard on / off switch. This will enable all lighting visible from the front of the house to be turned on with an alarm condition.

I also need to spend some time working with the DTH to get control over the ring camera sirens.

Following that, the next priority will be to, if I can’t manage to balance it, replace the off brand ceiling fan in the master bedroom, and add the Hampton Bay controller to that. I want voice control over that fan soonest possible as my wife is always asking me to turn the light off after I am settled in to bed… I’d rather she told Alexa to turn the dumb thing off.

I haven’t fully given up on the OC821 cameras yet. I have 4 of them left that work, one the power input broke… I am wanting to reinstall 2 of them for monitoring the sides of the house, one to monitor the workshop, and the other to monitor the office / studio. An added bonus would be if I could get the motion sensor from the OC821 to work with ST as well, that would really go a long way to filling in the gaps and leave me with needing to pick up only one motion sensor…

(Dan) #37

The use of these bulbs, in areas controlled by a a typical wall switch is something you may want to reconsider. Since the Sylvania Zigbee Bulbs act as Zigbee HA routers, if these are left attached to wall switches, they will inevitably be switched off. When they lose power, any Zigbee devices that are using these bulbs as routers will get disconnected from the Zigbee network. This will result in unpredictable behavior.

I would recommend using smart switches, instead of smart bulbs, wherever possible. When not possible, use Sengled smart bulbs. Sengled bulbs are not Zigbee routers, by design. This prevents any mesh network impact if they are powered off.

#38

The difference between “exclusion” and “general exclusion.“ :sunglasses:

“Exclusion“ is when a hub tells a device which is in the hub’s address table that that device should leave the network.

The Z wave alliance realized that sometimes the original hub might no longer be available. Maybe the hub itself was damaged. Maybe you bought the device used. Maybe you are setting up a new network in a second home and brought some devices but not that hub. In any case, you need a way to get the device to clear out it stored information so you can now add it to a new hub. That method is called “general exclusion.”

Any Z wave controller can issue a general exclusion command to all the Z wave devices that can hear it.

If you then do the physical Exclusion pattern on the individual device, it will accept the general exclusion command and reset itself.

Any device which is not physically manipulated with its own exclusion pattern will just ignore the command.

So that’s how you can do it. :sunglasses: you don’t need the original hub.

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#39

Or leave the bulb always on power and add a separate smart switch which does not control the current to the bulb. This is a very popular choice when the smart bulb has features that you want, such as color changing or color temperature changing.

There are lots of choices these days. You just have to plan for the situation. :sunglasses:

(Big Hoss) #40

You haven’t seen my other threads on this issue.

I am aware of the drawback. I have Decora style switches. I use clear packing tape and as smoothly as possible, tape them locked into the on position. This keeps people from accidentally turning them off and thus disabling it from the Zigbee mesh.

The bulbs actually are chosen as part of the mesh.

I am going with ZWave switches for the fixtures where there are a good number of bulbs like the dining room chandalier, or where smart bulbs just won’t work like my shop light fixtures…

It should be noted, I have also come up with a naming convention. Room, fixture, function, for naming.

So for example, in SmartThings the porch lights are Front Porch Light 1 and Front Porch Light 2. In Alexa they are grouped into the Front Porch Light group. Same with Front Hall, Front Room Fan, Front Room Closet, Laundry Light 1 and 2 into Laundry Light etc…

I have labels on the switch plates as a visual reminder for visitors.

So Alexa, turn on the Front Room Fan Light etc…

If I had toggle switches instead of Decora style, I most likely would have opted fully to go with switches instead of bulbs.

I am trying to do what I can to avoid getting into the walls. and wires.

It’s an intentional choice, based on intended use, cosmetics, and in no small part, budget.

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