Hi
My living room has 8 GU10 down lights which were controlled by iLight Control 4 Zone Control box. This control box has packed it in and is no longer available, thus leaving me without the ability to turn on my living room lights.
What I’m interested is getting my lights back operational but hooking the setup into Smartthings. Just not sure what I’m actually looking for.
As the iLight Control box looked after the lights all wiring is pointing to this unit which is located under the stairs. The lights for turning on and off were controlled by wall panels that connected to the control box via Ethernet wiring.
As there are 8 lights in the room, I would be interested if possible to control the 8 separately or in groups.
I was told by an electrician that there is no easy way to add in normal light switchs ie it is possible but you would be chasing cables and coming through walls, so I guess I want to somehow work with the existing wiring under the stairs.
There seems to be some devices out there that may assist, but I’m not sure and other than knowing what the wiring indicate not sure how they relate to my lights.
I’m open to suggestions on the best way to design this. Thanks in advance.
So with keeping an eye on other threads, lets assume each of the 4 wires control two of my lights (4 x 2) = 8 which is the total in the room. Each lamp is running a 50W Halogen light, similar to a GU10 but instead of round ends they are pins.
Would the option of the Fibaro Relays/Dimmer be feasible?
If you don’t mind losing the function of the switches you have, yes.
Ilight switchs work on a can bus system.
otherwise, you could use the network cabling at the switches with a new switch to operate a 12V switching circuit or two. That operated a relay/contactor that could then switch the fibaros switching inputs at 230V
2x of the FGS-222 would give you 4 switching outputs and controls.
you would also need a power supply for the switching circuit. eg 12v bell transformer.
along with the relay/contactors required.
You would struggle to fit all this in that existing back box.
Is just replacing the Ilight dimmer with a newer version not an option?
@Acevis, thanks for your response
I don’t mind loosing the switches. I mentioned them so a full picture was understood.
Power supply may or may not be a problem. I;ve two banks of twin sockets there. If the power supply can be spured off one of them, then I’m fine otherwise I don’t know how I would get a feed from the mains in.
Unfortunately a replacement isn’t an option. As they don’t make them any more I was quoted around 1K for a refurbished one with no guarantee. I thought I’d be daft to even contemplate it. So did the re-seller
You’ll have all the power you’ll need in the old Ilight box. Depending how that was supplied it might need fusing down.
look at the FGD-212 if you want dimming capability to.
Other option is to leave all the lights permanently supplied from the old box. The just replace lamps with Philips Hue, or osrams lightify. lights can then be controlled via App or by battery remote style switches.
Ilight have newer dimmer packs that could be used, they might still be compatible with your existing switches. But would need commissioning/programing by an engineer.
Eight lights @ €30 = €240, Osram Hub (if I want to upgrade firmware) €60. I like the idea though of the light switches I must admit. I know I saw an example of a wall switch in some thread and people were creating 3D surrounds over existing light switches. I can not find the thread nor quick searching showed up something I could relate too, but is the basic premise that the switch is battery operated and is connected with the bulbs for on/off functionality. If this is the case is everything still possible to connect to the ST App for control?
and I need two because I’ve 4 wires (which I’m assuming controls 2 lights each)
Were I to go with the Relay switches, can a Zwave light switch also be used???
Also does anyone know if you can have two ZWave light switches running the lights. ie there are two doors to the living room, one light switch at each door?
Yes battery operated, they can dim as well as on and off. Yes to ST App for control as long as you have ST hub.
Osram can connect straight to ST hub, I believe. Were as Hues should be to their hub. for best function. You can have more than one switch too.
Yes with ST hub. But our choice of Zwave switches this side of the pond that are not battery operated is pretty much non existent atm. I believe there is some choice of battery ones although not much.
Sounds we do have a similar situation. I’d prefer same wall switches, just controlling the lighting then wife happy, and still can be controlled by ST even if wall switch off.
So far I’ve bought 3 Lightify that with fine with ST, but wall switch needs to be left on.
I’ve just bought a Fibaro relay dimmer 2 but haven’t fitted it yet, this was £45, if this works fine then I’d prefer this option though. Although my LEDs are not dimmable and so don’t want the cost of replacing all those as well…
@acevis - thanks for your responses and pointing me in the correct direction for the dimmer.
@R2D2 I’m lucky there currently as I’ll use the existing Halogens, but as they are the only ones left in the house (Ive converted all others to LEDs) its only going to be a matter for time before i fire on that purchase.
When I moved in, every bulb was a halogen 50W, spent £150 on LEDs straight away, but all non dimmable as didn’t think about ST later on.
Unfortunately to use a relay with no neutral you need dimmable, although they say it may work. I haven’t got it wired in yet to try though otherwise I’ll have to but a few LED dimmables…
I hear you, I took one room at a time over a few years when I had some spare cash. None of my LEDs are dimmable. My sitting room is the last on the list due to the current non working setup.
One advantage at least Amazon does decent deals on the GU10 leds. I’m in Ireland, this country rips you off.
This would cost me €35
plus whatever to rewire the ceiling lamps. Added expense but doable.
the dimmer module can be used with non dimmable lamps. with 2 wires at switches.
Just set parameter 32 appropriately.
You might find you can actually dim your non dimmable lamps a small amount.
param 1+2 set the bottom and top limit for dimming levels. If you can visibly notice the amount they dime before flickering tho, depends on the lamps. If you find the bottom limit they will work at, set your limit 5% above that just to make sure you don’t stress the electronics to much. you should be fine.
I delayed my purchased to complete this project as I came across this post
It seemed as if it would partially suit my situation, so for the price point I decided I’d purchase one. However just seem that Vesternet have a Summary 20% saving thing going on from this post Vesternet Sale Summer 2016 so I think I may get my relays too.
@acevis, quick question. I have started to replace my GU10 hallogens with Dimmable Leds. Each bulb according to the information says “GU10 will last for more than 25 years and comes in 4 Watts”
As these are Dimmable, 4 lights on each load at 4 Watts each total 16. Does that mean I will also now need to purchase the Dimmer bypass http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-dimmer-bypass-2 as the total load is under 50 Watts?
You might be ok without it. The only way to know for sure is to try it without. Then if you’re not happy with the performance try adding the bypass.
The dimmer has to be calibrated again tho. From parameters.
It’s almost impossible to tell you how led lamps will perform as they are all designed completely different and perform differently.
Dimmer manufactures only give you recommended lamps because they have physically tested them out.
