Trying to get my Go Control working with my remote, like I’ve seen here!
My Liftmaster 2000SDR is not compatible with Go Control (GC) because the contacts are not dry.
I saw the remote solution here and thought that might be the answer to my problems.
Tested continuity using ohms, (my old meter doesn’t have a continuity setting) resistance only when button pressed.
Before I soldered, I tested this by holding the GC wires to the remote button leads and having someone else work the phone app to open/close. I “synchronized” before I did this.
That WORKED!!! The phone app opened/closed the door several times. Hurray, on to soldering.
I soldered… AND my GC will not operate the door. What the what?
Pic below is what I have for testing. The wires to the left are to the GC. Touching the two yellow wires will cause the door to open/close. The button on the remote still works.
Test 1: FAIL - GC wires held directly to board pins (on top of soldered wire).
Test 2: FAIL - GC wires held directly to other 2 board pins for the button.
Test 3: PASS - Test 2 on a different occasion. But I don’t want to start soldering wires those when this all isn’t making much sense to me. I’m not that great at soldering so I’d rather avoid it.
So is my GC failing to “synchronize”. From the directions you are supposed do this. I’m not sure what is going on in this step.
Is there a way I can test the GC to determine if it intermittently does not work? I tried ohms test and that just showed nothing after the 4sec beep/flash. But maybe that is not a proper test.
This link may be out there on the community forum somewhere, but I found it really helpful in wiring my new Liftmaster system to the GD00Z. The circuit board that is given as an example turned out to be exactly the one that I have in my system so finding the solder points was not difficult at all.
I am having a similar issue! I have a Craftsman opener. The wall switch is a push button and motion light. I wired the GD00Z to the same terminals on the opener as the wall switch, not seeing this post first. I have had partial success. I would say the garage responds…30-50% of the time, hI would begin to figure out the solder points for the switches. Any help is appreciated!
@Paul_Bockmann can you give a little more detail on how you wired this up? It looks like this is the best option here, but I can’t quite understand how the wires should be placed and how you are powering the relay. Thanks for the help!
Is there any way you could give the exact details of how to wire the relay in here? Even with your great details, I’m not sure which terminals are the right ones on the relay. My relay has terminals 85, 86, 87, 30.
I wanted to try to the solution @Paul_Bockmann used which he posted that he based his setup from this here, it does not include wiring up an opener.
So, I would have 2 wires coming from the power source, 2 wires from the Linear, and 2 contacts on the opener. I’m stuck and don’t want to break something by wiring it wrong.
I am trying to wire the same remote to my GoControl GD00Z-4 and was curious how you wired it. When I wired it up the second i connect the GC to the remote the door opens before activating via SmartThings. The remote will not function until I remove the battery and hook it up again. Same happens when I wire the GC into the security panel in the garage.
My remote has 4 pins where the button is attached to the board. I used a multimeter and until I found 2 of the 4 pins that only showed connectivity when I pressed the button. If you take a wire and touch both ends to those pins the door should open without pressing the button. The wire completed the circuit.
The GoControl uses a transistor to complete the circuit like the wire did.
I took 2 six inch wires and soldered to those leads so I could easily connect/swap/test the GoControl wires with screws for testing.
Sounds like your GC is completing the circuit immediately or something. You might try plugging in the GC to power after connecting the wires.
Ran into the same issue with our 10 year old Chamberlain Whisper Drive door opener which uses a wall mount controller that has time, temp, motion and lock functionality. So glad I found this post once it became evident the “simple” connection of the GD00Z-4 to the Garage Door opener was not working. Purchasing the Universal 2-Button Garage Door Remote KLIK1U by Chamberlain, soldering the leads to the remote and mounting it by the GD00Z-4 took less than 10 min.
Works like a champ and now the door is part of the ST network!
Well I gotta give you an award harryman… this one turned the lights on for me.
My garage door was getting to be a 50% open. I noticed the Linear fired every time but the remote did not. I did try switching the wires around, but to no avail… same problem.
Then it hit me. From my hobbyist electronics with oscilloscopes I remembered problems with common grounds. Since the Linear and my remote were plugged in to different power supplies, they obviously will share the same earth ground. The two wires from the GD00Z obviously will have a ground of some form and it was interfering with the remote, since I had that plugged into a 3v power supply as well. I figured that the GD00Z was causing ground issues with the remote.
I put the battery in the remote and disconnected it from power. Sure enough, I get 100% now. Ground was certainly not my friend.
I will try to experiment with a diode to prevent the ground from perhaps getting a back pull from the remote and see if that works. The key is that I believe the grounds need to be isolated somehow.
This is also why those using a relay get this to work well because the relay isolates the ability for a backfeed to occur.
This solution works great from @chadkillingsworth hanks! I learned a lot about relays and soldering in the process too. For an extra $7 for two relays, it’s not bad, Now I can order the 2nd unit for the other door with confidence.
Next it looks like I need to read up on the posts to get Alexa working with this device since the Amazon app does not recognize it.
I was thinking I would have to do this workaround, as I have a WhisperDrive Chamberlain w/the “fancy” motion sensor control on the wall.
However, the lights on my Chamberlain stopped working reliably some time back (would flicker off after coming on, and eventually just stopped turning on). So I put a motion sensor in the garage hooked up to my main garage light and use that for automatic lighting when I go into the garage/open shut the door. Works perfectly, and my garage light is better than the lighting from the Chamberlain ever was.
So…there is an On/Off switch on the side of the Chamberlain wall controller. I slid that to off to turn off the motion sensing feature, reasoning that if the sensor function wasn’t enabled, the switch would behave like a “dumb” garage door wall switch.
Hooked up my Linear controller directly to the Chamberlain and voila, everything works, no additional garage door remote, wires, or soldering required .
So if you don’t need/use the motion sensor feature, and your wall control has an on/off switch, seems like it’s an option to just turn that off.
I have a GD00Z-1 (Lowes Iris). My opener is a LiftMaster 7675. I have a simple wall unit (no motion, no temp, etc). When I trigger the Device in ST, the GD00Z beeps, and the back of the opener flashes 1-up, 3-down. Looking at the Service Bulletin for the diag codes, it suggests that the wires are shorted or the controller is faulty.
Behavior is the same even if the wall unit is removed from the opener and the GD00Z is the only device wired.
Could the GD00Z be faulty? Should I return/exchange?
It essentially shorts out the contacts to trigger the door as I understand it, usually that’s how the wall buttons work but if your opener is complaining about it, might be worth seeing if the opener supports that kind of contact switch in the first place.
Well, as best as I can discover, this particular model is not on the Official We-Don’t-Support-You list…
It does seem like there is some communication between the GD00Z and the opener - the opener displays a diagnostic code that there’s something wrong with the controller… Like it got a bad command.
But, as you said, it’s a simple shorting out of the contacts. What could possibly be improper about THAT command?
I have a linear GD00Z-4, connected to a Chamberlain, MYQ opener, model WD850KEVG.
A friend of mine with advanced soldering skills came over and soldered the linear leads directly to the wall mounted clicker switch (yes, the tiny little switch mounted on the circuit board!). Simply connecting the linear leads to the red/white terminals on the back of the wall mount switch would not work. The leads must be soldered on the circuit board clicker switch (notated by drawn in pink dots in the pic).
