Glad I’ve found this thread - Linear Customer support was less than helpful. Its really frustrating straightforward conneciton method fails given that less techy solution like Magic Closer or Garage butler can successfully close the door.
Anyway, i think I have a spare battery-operating remote and I would like to connect it to GD00Z as a way to to overcome incompatible button issue. However, i do not own soldering iron and it’s been a while since I did some soldering. Any other (reliable)way to attach the wires to the button contacts? Any universal remotes with screw-on contact attachment possibility?
I ended up using a small opener from amazon for $6.50 I already had the zwave unit in place from my old garage door opener, and I was scared to solder my large panel as well.
Do what you did so far, but you need to isolate the Ryobi remote with a relay
I alos had the same issue with he Ryobi remote’s LED flashing as soon as you try
to put the linear in the switch etc. Add the relay NO (normally open) contacts to the ryobi remote… and then loop a 12V power supply to the relay coil and the linear white wires as the “switch” to apply 12V to the relay coil.
This is fantastic news Jim. By chance could you post any pictures or links (amazon?) to the relay and 12 volt power supply you used and how you connected? I purchased a relay from radio shack last month and was thinking about doing what you described but just not sure how to power it or which leads to connect. Would very much appreciate any additional details you could provide!
Also, do you think using that same relay could work attached directly to the GDO (eliminating the Ryobi Remote)?
This was exactly what I was looking for, thank you.
I have the same controller and was able to get my GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener working with a LiftMaster 8165 by soldering two wires to the contacts indicated on the picture Josher provided.
To be clear, I did not use a relay. I connected the GD00Z directly to those two leads and it seems to be working fine. If I have any problems down the road I will be sure to post an update.
Relay Wiring:
Pin 30 to 12v power (positive on 5.5mm jack) plus either one of the leads from Linear (doesn’t matter which)
Pin 86 to Ground (5.5mm jack)
Pin 87 to either side of the Ryobi remote switch
Pin 85 to other side of the Ryobi remote switch and the remaining lead from the Linear (doesn’t matter which)
Learn Ryobi Remote to the GDO if not done already (be sure to use the button that was hard wired)
Disconnect power (5.5mm plug) from Linear. Connect Y adapter to Linear power supply, Linear Device, and relay assembly. This will allow the Linear power supply to power both the Linear and relay circuit.
Cycle the door twice (Open then Close, or Close then Open) using the wall switch.
I also tried to run a 12v to 3v step down module to power the remote and eliminate the battery requirement. The device I have puts out 3v @ 3amps which proved be too much for the remote to handle. I am looking for one that outputs 3v @ 225mah (.225 amp) but haven’t had luck with that yet.
I’m just curious if anyone has tried to replace the motion sensor wall control with a more basic wall control with light button. I’m in a rental home and don’t want to solder onto the wall control I have. (Same control as pictured in the post by @Paul_Bockmann ). I was thinking if it is just the motion sensor and temperature features that interfere with the GD00Z why not get a more basic Lift-master wall control? One like the Lift-master 78LM. At least you can turn on and off the lights at the controller unlike the basic one (that I have installed) featured in the first post. I might just order it and give it a try if no one else has tried it yet. I don’t care about the motion sensor/time/temp functionality but it is frustrating that I can’t turn my lights on/off without opening/closing the door. Here is the controller I’m considering:
These are great instructions Jason. Thanks! By chance could you post a picture of the setup? Especially the solder points on the remote and pins 30 and 85.
The Y adapter is a brilliant idea to supply power! I’ve just now ordered the parts. I happen to have two relays, one is double throw, double pull from radio shack (SMI-S-212D) which I’m assuming is overkill but should work - the other is a JD1912 which looks like a boshe clone (its a SPST).
First time using relays but I think I understand the principle but pictures would help me tremendously.
Luckily, I built a second module this morning and took pictures due to your request. As FYI, I plan on selling these things but I do not consider any of this proprietary and have no problem sharing.
I am not too familiar with relays either, and did a lot of trial and error but only with the relay pictured below.
The solder points on the remote are on either side of the pushbutton you would plan to use to control the door.(“S1” is button 1 and “S2” is button 2)
There are three wire pairs going to the relay:
The two coming from the bottom left of the picture are to the 12v power supply
The two coming from the bottom right of the picture do to the Linear module
Man, this should be much easier. I too ran into the issue of the GD00z-4 not working with my Chamberlain PD762EV. The Linear just beeped and flashed when I attempted to open close when wired as directed. I checked compatibility before I ordered and my Chamberlain unit was not listed on the incompatibility list… frustrating. Anyhow, this thread has been really helpful in attempting to understand and fix, thanks to all who have contributed. Unfortunately, I am still stuck and I’m not sure why. I took one of the three button remotes that came with the units and decided to use it to do what other’s have succeeded at doing. I found the terminals for the button that created continuity when button was pressed, soldered some wire to it, then soldered a 3v power supply to the battery holder. When I plug this in and short the white wires I soldered in, the garage door responds by opening/closing. However, when I hook the Linear leads to it, same problem… just beeps and flashes. This should work, right?
Thanks Jason, did you figure this out after attempting to connect the Linear directly to the button on the remote? I’m guessing this is what is missing in my setup as the Linear still just blinks and beeps at me when I connect it to my button leads, even though I can open close the door by shorting my leads. I did find a universal power adapter at Wal-Mart that does seem to be working for replacing the 3v battery in the remote. It is a PowerLine model 90333. It says Input: 100-120vac 50/60hz 0.3A max Current 600mA
Hello Larry,
Sounds like your Chamberlain remote is acting the same as my Ryobi one. Adding the relay in the same manner I detailed above for the Ryobi will solve your issues as well.
Thanks for the power supply info. I am looking for a way to convert 12v / 3 amp to 3v / .225 amp to limit the number of power supplies required.
I have the Craftsman unit that came with the internet gateway, would this method also work for it, I have the Z-Wave Garage Module and I could never get it to work.
I also tried to replace the stock wall button with a generic button and the opener stopped responding and was unresponsive.
Thank you to all above for sharing the different configurations. Can someone who has a working configuration, please put a multimeter (continuity mode) on the GD00Z white output wires and tell me what happens when you open and close the garage door via the GD00Z?
I have a Chamberlain/Liftmaster 3585s garage door opener, a KLIK1U remote and a GD00Z-04 controller.
I have tried wiring the GD000Z-04 to the push button control on KLIK1U remote; and adding a relay to the set-up. Same result both times.
No matter what I try, I always get the GD00Z-04 to open (or close) the garage door once. I get the appropriate number of flashes and beeps, and my hub provides the correct status. Afterwards, the controller does not work again no matter how long I wait (30s or 1min or more) unless I reset everything.
I put a multimeter on the GD00Z-04 white output wires. In continuity mode, the multimeter indicates an open circuit after I set up the GD00Z-04, and then the circuit closes when I execute an open or close command from the hub. This of course activates the remote push button control and the garage door opener responds. However, the circuit remains closed from here on out, the remote acts as if its push button is continuously being pushed, and the remote goes into error mode (LED on the KLIK1U continuously flashes). Sometimes, but not always, the garage door opener goes into lock out mode. The only way to get an open circuit on the white wires again is to power off the GD00Z-04 and reinitialize.
What should I expect? Should the circuit only momentarily close?
I’m having the same problem. I’ve tried everything detailed in this thread and still it’s the same thing… controllers just beep and flash and nothing happens. I have three of them. After so much time and money invested I think I’m going to give up. Are there any other solutions out there?
Unfortunately this is the harsh reality of this controller, Linear will blame it on your wall controller… I wasn’t going to buy another one until it was confirmed they have solved it but found it so cheap it didn’t matter if mine dies again.
