Linear 3 Way Led Dimmer

I’m really confused. A lot of people have asked about dimmable 3 way and but I’m worried I’m about to spend another $100 and still not work.

I have a bunch of LED 6" Can lights, Juno if it matters. I want to 3 way switch them. It only has to be dimmable from one switch but if it does it from both all the better.

I read about Linear WD500Z-1 Z-Wave 500-watt and it says explicitly that it works with LEDs. Can I just hook up a standard non-Z-Wave 3 Way switch at the other end and have the Linear act off the travelers?

Then I find Linear Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Dimmer Switch - WT00Z1 but it doesn’t say that it will control LEDs.

Does anyone have a LED 3 Way Dimmer system working with smart-things?

-Frustrated in Chicago

You cannot hook up a standard dimmer. What happens is the linear 3 way becomes a non-load controlling switch. So, the 500w switch goes where the line comes in, controls the load, and the other switch is just connected to electric without load (like an outlet).

I have several of these in combo around the first floor. You can add as many 3 ways as you want, creating virtual 4 and 5 way switches. What you do is you program the 3 way as a controller of the other switch - I’m using the wrong terminology here, so hopefully someone can explain that part better. I needed an Aeon minimote to get them setup.

Sorry for short replay as I am about to head out, but wanted to give quick reply…

I have well over 30 Linear switches installed in my house (11 more still to be install). Most are the WD500Z switches. Few are the WS15Z (on/off, no dimming). About 10 are the WT00Z1 accessory switches that are setup to create a virtual 3 and 4 way light. They work really good. You do need the Minimote remote to do the initial pairing. But otherwise, I can’t recommend them highly enough.

Lights, I am using the Costco led retrofit kits that replace our 6" recessed lighting (about $12 each). They work really good with the Linears. Great dimming. Great control. Only issue is some humming when dimmed down on few of the led’s. Out of 25 recessed leds, 3 were really loud and we replaced. Others are good, but if absolutely NO other sound is in house, then few lights you can hear a faint buzz (not an issue as you almost have to hold your breath because so minimal sound/buzz).

Like I said, Linear + costco LED is a great combo. I assume other led’s work just as good.

@Malathan & @brianlees

Thanks for the quick reply’s guys. Appreciate it.

To make a basic 3 way light setup do I need two WT00Z1’s or one WT00Z1 and a WD500Z?

All I need to purchase is the Minimote no other items needed? Any instructions you can point me to on setting this up?

Both of you stated that it was a virtual 3 and 4 way lights. Can you explain this? Is the two switches talking to each other through Z-Wave instead of traveler wires?


You are correct. Linear takes the approach of setting up additional switches that can control primary one via z-wave. The additional switches do not use the traveler wires. All they need is power (Hot lead, common, ground…no load needed). All the travel wires you have, you can cap off (put a cap on it, electrical tape on to keep it in place, shove into back of box and forget about it).

You will need a master/primary switch a WT500Z (dimmer) or WS15Z (on/off). Your case, the dimmer. Once installed, then you can install as many WT00Z (accessory) switches to expand into a 3+ way setup.

The accessory switch itself never connects to a light, all it needs is power then for you to associate it with the primary switch. Once associated, is reacts to your on/off/dim commands pretty fast. The lag time in response is minor, so much so that if you didn’t know the switch wasn’t directly connected to the light you would never notice.


  1. Install your WD500Z. Make sure it worked turning on/off/dimming. Now add it to your ST hub (Add new device).
  2. Install a WT00Z accessory swich. Add it to your ST hub.
  3. Use the minimote remote to link the switches together. You need the remote because it initiates a ZWave command that is not implemented in the ST hub. BUT…once you have the remote, you will love it (great for setting up “good night” command and turning lights off, then putting next to bed). See following post for instructions on using remote: Evolve LTM-5 transmitter to LRM-AS association - #2 by shanv

For assistance/tip on wiring, see if following might help: Need help with installation of Evolve LRM-AS and LTM-5. I am not an electrician, but after 30+ switches, multiple 3 and 4 ways, I can at least proudly say I know enough to have not been electricuted (slight shock before realizing two different breakers are going into a box with 3 switches, so turning off one breaker did not totally kill power in the box…but never “hair on end” “eyes glowing” electricuted).


Yes, I have this working with aeon micro dimmers using pushbutton switches, though it would work with toggles too.
Only one dimmer (plus relay/ssr) required for 3 way or N way.
info here and

Not sure if this has been really stated or not; but I didn’t see it;

Can you use a a WD500Z (load bearing) switch in a 3 way (2 switch) setup with a standard on/off switch?
I have a circuit of 8 lights, currently non-dimmable in a 3 way setup (2 on/off switches).
I’d like to install the WD500Z, but leave one of the orginal switches so that one panel has dimmable capability, and one has on off.

Would this require the purchase of a WT00Z1 as well? or can I leave the original switch.


You need to use their auxiliary switch. I just got rid of three way switches and put the money into motion sensors instead. Who wants to even bother with switches. :slight_smile:

I figured as much; its just annoying to have to spend another 30$ for a non-load switch; that has the exact same functionality as the existing switch.
Makes turning the circuit smart into a 60$ project instead of 30$.

Usually in 3- and 4-way switches, my understanding is that power is on the first switch (where the dimmer goes) and the load is connected to the last switch. In order to power the load, I would presume I need to reuse one of the traveler wires to pass the line voltage through the other two switch location so that both the WT00Z1’s get power and the lights get power. Can you clarify?

And I don’t see Linear listed in ST’s list of compatible devices. Is that only because a Minimote is required?

I’ve got a 37-year old house- it does have neutrals. I am using LED flood lights and they are not reduced voltage. The Leviton VIZIA LED-compatible switched (the Magnetic ones) are labeled low-voltage, so I presume those are for transformer-reduced fixtures. Gads this is confusing…


I have the same issue (I think). In my living room I have 3 different switches that control a single set of 4 recessed lights (on/off). If I just want to use a motion sensor to turn the lights on and off, do I still need to replace all 3 switches? I’ve installed regular wemo zwave switches, but never tried anything like this, so sorry if this is a dumb question. I’m trying to find the least expensive way to automate my living room lights.

No. You need to replace one switch and cap off the rest.

Thanks! I also just found the Aeon DSC26103-ZWUS which I believe might work for me. I ordered a couple to try out.

I just did this. I googled & printed some 3way diagrams. Then, very carefully, I mapped out the switches. For each post, for every configuration, which had power and when the lights were on. Turns out, the switches are simple in the end. It became very clear where the power came in and which went out to the lights. Then, I very, very carefully identified the wires I needed for the 500z to handle the load & the z1(s) just to power them. And, capped off the wires that were not needed in the box. I used a minimote to configure. Paper & pencil helped a lot. Be careful of the electric…

No need to spend the $ on mini remote. Group with the light carrying the load in ST instead.

Can you explain more on what you mean by “group the light carrying the load in ST”? How? I have them paired with the Minimote, but I’ve found that it’s quite buggy like that, as it gets confused at what the current state of each switch is.

Linear requires that at least one of the switches carry the load to the light or device. I assume that much you’ve figured out. The other switches only need power, neutral, and ground and are really just dummy switches to control the load baring switch via Z wave.
Using what is now light automation in the market place (use to be the big switch under routines), install a Smart App / automation that controls the state of switch B based on the state of Switch A. Install second Smart App / automation that controls the state of switch A based on the state of switch B. I label the Apps “Parent Control of Child” and vise versa.
The result is that if ou switch on A (load baring switch) the automation runs to virtually switch on B, showing it as on in ST. Conversly if you physically switch on / off B it virtually switches off A via ST and controls the load turning on or off the light.

Pairing the switches will result in more reliable operation.

I have both the GE/Jasco and Linear dimmers. The GE/Jasco 3 ways work well since they are wired, the Linear dimmers also work well. I finally gave up on the Linear 3 way setup using a programmed/paired switch. I tried several times and was never able to get a switch paired to a particular master switch. I also have a minimote remote that has never stayed working longer than 1 hour after I get it programmed.

I feel having to have a programmed solution that relies on the network to operate is an inferior solution to a wired 3 way solution. If they can improve the operation of the GE/Jasco units I may give it another try later but for now I don’t like the linear 3 way solution. I think I have 3 of the linear remote devices collecting dust in a box, anybody need them?

I am sure I could dedicate 20-30 hours to it and get going but I have a job and kids so that won’t happen so I stay content having one or the other, dimming or 3 way, not both.