So was planning on getting the newer LifX LED strip, but $80 on Amazon. Did a little searching and was wondering, in my case, I want some RGBW strip lights in various places of decent quality, some places only a couple of feet and other places, up to 6.
Are there some recommended setups where I can use 1 controller or achieve having controllable strip lights in 5-6 places throughout my home with it being $80 a pop for each location? Would like to be able to set with ST and Alexa. Can use plugs in various locations, but in kitchen, would also like to be able to use a wire extender.
Read a little about Fibaro and also using simpler controllers. Would like to be close to plug and play, but can tinker some too. What have you done or would recommend?
I’d suggest doing a little search here on the forum for LED strip lights or analog LED or digital LED, depending on what you’re looking for. There are dozens of articles for both.
Thanks - yeah, ton to read which add some confusion.
Ended up getting these and so far, I like them for the price. Haven’t tied to ST yet, but am sure will be no issue. Does setup into wi-fi and Alexa well for now.
I use a variety of LED strips and strings around the house, but unfortunately for this discussion no Lifx strips. I did glance at the Lifx web page. The interesting feature of the Lifx strips is the addressable sections of each strip. That feature makes me wonder will the strips work with splitters and extension cables as you mentioned you may need?
It’s the darn transformers and controllers that complicate the use of LED strips and their integration with SmartThings. Most basic strips have a small transformer, a controller and the controller uses Wi-Fi or Bluetooth to communicate with that manufacturer’s phone/tablet application and SmartThings via a controlled outlet turns off or on the strip. With the basic strips, splitters and extension cables work fine. You’ll need to contact Lifx to see if or how splitters and extension cables work or fine a Lifx discussion group. Intermediate level strips involve zwave or zig bee controllers (Fibaro, Dresden, etc) controlled directly by SmartThings using Smart Lighting Automation control or WebCORE. Intermediate strip configurations might involve buying 5 meter length strips and making smaller strips using solder or mechanical connectors. Advanced strips might include addressable strips or strings and micro computer control. Basic, intermediate and advanced are my definitions not a recognized standard.
I use a variety of power supplies and controllers placed all over the house, garage and outdoors. My first purchase was a Hue strip used as an above kitchen cabinets accent lighting. Followed that with a couple Osram strips for under cabinet lighting. The Osram has a variety of splitters and extensions. Even have Osram outdoors on the deck. In the garage, I have single color (white) double row strips powered by a transformer without a controller and it’s plugged into an Iris plugin outlet. I have a variety of power supplies and controllers and strips, mostly purchased from Amazon. The power supplies and strips are “name brand” LEDenet, Chinly, Alitove, and etc. Controllers are Dresden, Fibaro, Qubino and some generic Wi-Fi and Bluetooth controllers. One way or another SmartThings or Alexa has control over my LED strips, except two cheap strips behind TVs plugged into the TVs’ USB ports.
Although expensive, the Lifx or Hue are indeed very convenient, easily controlled and produce lovely white and colorful lights.
Based on the link I provided above, what are suggested splice connectors, wire extenders, power extenders, and additional wifi modules that I can purchase along with these? Thinking I prefer to use connectors for these rather than soldiering.
At your amazon link, ask the vendor this question: are the LEDs 5050 or 3528 and is the strip 10mm or 12mm? Makes a difference on fittings needed.
I might suggest visiting YouTube and doing this search: “4 pin LED connector”. There are plenty examples of technique.
Have you determined your desired layout? Example: two pieces separated by 10 feet and one power supply and one controller, how are you routing your run of 10 feet 4-conductor cable?
One other question, is this an indoor installation or exterior? Do you need water resistant?
Not sure I will get an answer. I asked some other questions recently with no reply. Here is a pic up close. Anyway to tell? I don’t see any numbers and all.
These are for your review just to give you ideas. These products maybe purchased from several sources and possibly cheaper.
Remember each 5 meter LED strip usually has two finished end with factory connectors. When cut into two pieces you have two functional strips. Cut into three pieces or four or five…you’ll need connectors.
If your strip is waterproof, there are different connectors compared to non-waterproof. However, there are YouTube videos showing using non-waterproof fittings on waterproof strips.
You will need:
Strip to strip connectors
Strip to wire connectors
Strip to controller connectors (4 pin connections)
Thanks, that is why I bought the ones I did as I saw the thread on the H801 and saw if the LED uses the Smart Life app, then this will work, or should at least.
If you split power after power supply and before controller, you’ll need two controllers. Splitting after controller, only one controller needed and the bonus is each strip is fed the same color and brightness.
The vendor/seller/manufacturer provides a power supply with a wattage slightly greater than the wattage of the strip. So if the strip they provide is say 300 LEDs, don’t exceed a total of more than 300 LEDs on that power supply. In fact, if you add in some connectors and additional wire, your number of LEDs will be (or should be) reduced due to voltage loss from increased resistance. This gets into some math I don’t feel comfortable explaining. If the LEDs at the end of a run are dim or off-colored, that’s an indicator you have too many LEDs or too much wire or too many connectors.
It’s a safety issue, in that those inexpensive power supplies may not have overload protection and you could overload them. The same applies to controllers. They may have a stated maximum capacity at a given voltage rating. Just don’t think the fuse or circuit breaker in your electrical panel is going to protect you. You can overload a device and not blow a circuit fuse or trip a breaker. Safety first. Also, power supplies should be plugged directly into outlets. Do not use extension cords between outlets and power supplies. Extension cords are not considered permenent wiring.
