I am back from my vacation. I just have gone through a list of you who reach out to me during my vacation for this sensor. I believe I have responded with a PM message.
In case that I may missed your request, I still have some Arrival Sensor available. Please feel free to reach out here or through a PM.
I think I may have missed posting here. I made a 3D printed cases for the sensor. The 3D printed case is design if you need to use the microwave radar. I believe I mentioned that there is an off the shelve case that is made of aluminum. The aluminum case will not work if you have microwave radar.
Here is the STL for the 3D printed case.
So waiting for my correct batteries to come in and ordered the wrong jst end. But I figured I would install the groove handler while waiting. I have added repo owner: Mariano-Github name: Edge-Drivers-for-Iman-Haryadi-Devices branch: main but nothing shows I usually donāt make forks that way I can get an update, but any idea why nothing shows and; weirdly, the branch is main, not master, but I think everything is correct. I also added a different repo, and in that one, I can see everything fine
Hi @rhawley88, the driver is the new Edge driver. It worked differently from the groovy dth.
The easiest to use it is through Mariano shared channel for the edge driver for the advance arrival sensor.
Mariano is very nice to share the code in case if you need to make changes to the driver. If you take the github route, you need to learn about developing edge driver.
Thanks
Iman
yeah, i havenāt done edge and was still trying to do it through smarthings IDE didnāt know its a different setup just thought the coding was different guess i have some research to do
wow, that was easy just 3 clicks thanks for the link and help should have that maybe stared because I went to the prior which was the github link
How much USB power is required to charge the battery with this board. And usually what is the charge duration from 0-100.
We need 1 amp USB power just to be on the safe side.
I designed it to charge in the range of 300 to 400 mA. If you use 300mAH battery, it should approximately fully charge in 1 hours. These are not an absolute number since battery manufacture has large variant from their advertised capacity.
The sensor itself (outside charging) will consume 80 to 110uA when on battery. With 300mAH capacity, this will last a long time before it runs out.
However, please note that I do not design it for a car that is rarely used. The sensor is ideally used in a car that is daily driven at least 5 to 15 minutes. With the battery capacity above, this will ensure continues operation without any worry running out of power regardless the state of the battery charge.
Thanks. And is 1A max it should be supplied or minimum? I would be plugging this into a 2.1 A usb port in the car. Do you think the board can handle higher amperage?
There should not be any issue with higher amperage charger.
Thanks, just wanted to be sure not to burn the board. 
Will keep you posted once I get mine.
@iharyadi, thank you.
So, I received mine today and set one of them up already. It setup without any issues.
Few questions:
I believe the motion sensor is triggered based on the radar sensor. Does it Carr where the board is placed? I mean in terms of its range and line of sight concerns.
Where is the temperature and vibration readings coming from? Does the zigbee chip has these inbuilt.
Guessing that the determination between DC vs battery power is done based on the connector (USB vs battery connection) where the power is connected, correct? And it is not based on the current/voltage being supplied.
What are the different LED states this board has supports? I noticed when I powered it on USB, it was solid red and then changed to green, which Iām guessing happened as soon as it paired. Any other LED colors/states denoting statuses?
What is the size of the antenna connector on the board? Is it MHF4 or MHF1? Iām thinking of getting a flexible 3-5 dbi antenna to make it more discreet.
The radar motion sensor radiation pattern is approximately a sphere. You should be able to put it anywhere inside the car.
The temperature sensor is in the ZigBee module. The vibration sensor is external on the PCB.
This is correct. However, Please make sure that you supply stable 5V DC power.
The LED is strictly for charging indicator. Red means charging. Green means charging is completed.
I donāt quite understand this questions. I personally look for RP-SMA antenna that connect to the antenna connector. I would not go directly to the ipx connector on the module when I look for my antenna.
Thanks for answering my queries.
My question on the antenna connector type was the type of IPX connector. As I understand that connector type can be either MHF4 or MHF1. As I want to hide the module under the dashboard somewhere, I was thinking to maybe use an antenna like this one - https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-2-4GHz-Internal-Laptop-Wireless/dp/B08XN6WMXJ/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ipex+antenna&qid=1668793248&sprefix=ipex+a%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-10
Also, do you think this connector can replace the USB A connector that you have installed on the board - https://www.amazon.com/ANMBEST-Connector-Receptacle-Adapter-Support/dp/B09WCSF8FC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bfemale%2Bconnector&qid=1668793013&sprefix=usb%2Bc%2Bfemale%2Bconne%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3&th=1
If you want to do that, I would be careful about removing the IPX connector. I would test with MHF1. This is not something that I recommend. Please do this on your own risk.
The sensor can use a shorter antenna like below.
The USB is there for power only. You can replace it with the connector that you link and use the V and GND. However, again, you should do this on your own risk. Please consider if you remove the USB-A connector, how would you make sure the new connector will be soldered to the board? Will it last for long term?
Thanks, I will look at that antenna. And yes, I was thinking of soldering the USB C connector. While my soldering skills are not really great and clean like the professionally done on the board you sent, but, I wonāt be worried about it lasting.
This continues to be a solid performer, never misses a beat. I love the battery optimization youāve done, the distance and battery life is exceptional. I was thinking, maybe people have issues getting a strong signal to mailboxes, have you thought about doing a mailbox version? I think it would be very popular. And would fill another gap in the market.
To add on to this suggestion. Possibly use a small solar panel to maintain battery level. Add some kind of contact or door operation detection. I would buy 1 right away!
It has a built in vibration sensor, and the radar motion sensor is a $5 upgrade.
@Mariano_Colmenarejo @iharyadi Why canāt the presence timeout be set to zero? I would like to use not present to automate the closing of the garage door, but with it set at 1 minute I am far out of visual range before it is triggered.