Can anyone draw up a wiring diagram. I got all the parts but I wasn’t sure which wire to connect to where.
Thanks!
Take a look at this thread, which is actually linked to above.
Thanks a lot for this! So I assume this isn’t possible with battery only operated detectors? I don’t have mine hardwired in series. Could I integrate into the relay with only the orange wire?
The Kidde Smoke/CO2 detectors I have are interconnected wirelessly somehow. So if one goes off they all go off. and they’re all battery operated. I could hard wire the one in the basement but that wouldn’t have the other 2 upstairs in series on the same 120 line.
Thanks!
The sm120x needs to be wired to your 120V house wiring.
Yeah, the only option for battery powered ones that I know of is either replace them with ones that have Z wave Built-in or they make a plugin adapter that listens for the alarm frequency and can relay the information that way.
I have two of the battery powered zcombo smoke/co detectors, a Halo, and the sm120x wired to a dumb smoke detector and the ecolink z-wave contact sensor.
I also have a Leeo and a kidde remotelync, those are the two devices that listen for smoke or CO alarm sounds.
I’m pretty satisfied with my setup overall, although I did replace one zcombo after two false alarms (it triggered for no apparent reason each time). Could have been something simple like dust or something but I didn’t want to take any chances. I also find that the leeo is prone to calling other high-frequency sounds a smoke alarm when they’re really something else. It’s not terrible, but since I setup the kidde remotelync to help offset that, it hasn’t triggered any false alerts when the leeo did.
Since I have kids and pets in the home, I like to think I’m appropriately paranoid when it comes to remote monitoring of smoke/CO alarms. 
Sorry, one more question:
Since mine are interlinked wirelessly, could I hardwire one and terminate the white/black/orange before on that image it says 'to additional alarms’
Therefore, if the one upstairs goes off, it will wirelessly set off the only one in the basement that’s hardwired to the relay. it should work correct?
You can wire just one detector to the sm120x as long as the smoke/co detector has an interconnect wire. That’s how mine is setup. You don’t have to have other detectors wired in series.
But you’re saying you have a wired detector that has both wired and wireless interconnects? What’s the model of smoke/co detector you’re using?
Is there a video on how to add the Kidde Smoke and Carbon detector to Smartthing app?
The only device thats being paired with the ST hub and will show up in the ST app is the z-wave contact sensor that’s wired to the kidde relay device using the contact sensor’s external inputs. All that’s required to pair the contact sensor is to pull the battery tab and put the hub into pairing mode (assuming it’s a new contact sensor).
IS there a SMARTAPP you used to set up the lights? I can not seem to get the lights setup. I have other door/window sensors that are working in this way.
Thank you for all the info. I designed mine just like yours.
Smart Home Monitor can be set to turn lights on when a security or smoke alert is triggered.
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I’m confused? So if I use both Kidde relays, will I receive alerts for smoke and CO2? Or does just the smoke work? I hooked up both and outputted to two Aeotec dry contact sensors. I’m not getting anything…
Each Kiddie relay will trip it’s respective alert (black one is smoke, blue one is CO). If everything is wired to the contact switches correctly they should trigger when you test your smoke/co detector. If you install the device type handlers from Vseven you can then use the sensors in smart home monitor.
Thanks, I had to switch the smoke and CO2 devices and they work! Only problem is the smoke alarm is stuck in smoke?
You sure you used the right set of outputs from the relay? There is a common wire then one wire for normally closed (closed then opens on smoke) and one for normally open (opens and closes on smoke). My device handlers were written for NO (normally open) and closing when CO or Smoke is detected.
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I just wanted to say thank you for the great guide. I ordered all your recommended pieces and installed everything within 30 minutes. The setup in smartthings was really simple. Do you know if there is a way to shut down my forced air heat so it is not blowing smoke through out the house in case of a fire?
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With the default Smart Home Monitor I don’t think so. What I did is on Smoke I turn on all my lights, unlock the doors, and turn on my bathroom exhaust fans (SHM doesn’t see a difference between a light switch and a fan switch). I figured at least its something. You could get fancy and break the power going to your furnace based on the relay output from the Kidde module also It would cost you a RIBU1C relay (about $20) and some wiring between where your Kidde relay is and your furnace power comes in but I can give you a sketch if you are interested.
I didn’t think about using a rib relay to achieve shutting the unit down. I can do the wiring no problem. I just need some insight. Thank you for the great idea and quick response!
So you have two outputs off that Kidde relay, a set for normally open and a set for normally closed. You are using the normally open set to trigger your alert. However you can use the normally closed set also. The relay isn’t rated for the furnace load but a standard RIB should work fine. Wire the existing 120v hot to the kidde NC wire then your RIB “hot” to the common. Wire the RIB neutral to your 120v neutral. Your RIB should be ON since the Kidde NC is making the connection. Wire the relay side of your RIB to the power feeding the furnace.
On smoke the NC will switch to open cutting the power to your furnace. Under normal conditions your furnace will run like normal. If there is a issue with your smoke or you have the circuit turned off it will still run since it’s on the NC side.
Note: I’m not a electrician although I work in a field that has had me do lots of electrical stuff. You might want to run this by one you know (or maybe @Navat604 ?). Also you are sharing the common from the Kidde between your 120v and your EcoLink sensors input. In my industry this would be fine and “should” work. But if in doubt just buy another Kidde relay…maybe even run some 12/3 or 14/3 wire over to your furnace. You can have multiples relays on the same link since they are just listening for the signal.
Here is an awful picture in a attempt to describe what I’m talking about.
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