Thanks. But if that is the case, it’s a very ill conceived and impractical system.
How it works on all wired mains powered devices that I know of. Why ill conceived/impractical? Most fans have a wall switch inline with them and all on breakers so no need for the remote at all to reset And it has worked just fine for all the other mains powered devices. It’s usually a one time sequence as once setup hopefully its one and done. And yes i see you are having issues with it needing to be reset but it’s not the norm.
I know when it goes retail I don’t need the remote at all and I just may pull the trigger on just the receivers since I see when ordering more than one the price dropped to where I want it. Smart Things, Alexa, or Smart Tiles will control my fans/lights so no remotes needed.
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I disagree. I have a non-zigbee RF receiver in my fan canopy and I can cut power to the fan/light by flipping a switch on the wall. I’m planning to order one of these receivers this summer. If I need to reset it for some reason, it’ll be a trivial thing to do by flipping the wall switch a few times.
You can’t cut power to a networked device and then restart it again with a remote because unless there is power to the networked device it won’t hear the next “on” command from the remote. This is true for all networked devices.
So you have two options: either you leave a switch on the circuit to the network device, and use the switch to toggle power on and off when needed for a reset, or use the breaker. But it has to be a physical closing of the circuit loop, because the radio can’t hear you when the power is cut completely.
So it’s up to you how to set it up. Most people are OK with the breaker, but if the breaker is in an inconvenient place or there are accessibility issues, you can leave a wall switch someplace.
This controller is supposed to give you control over both the fan and light independently. By cutting the main power source you defy the purpose. Which is why the same company offers an RF wall switch for both light and fan. The main power is supposed to remain on all the time.
So resetting for me, requires going down to the basement. Not the best design in my opinion. But, to each is own.
Thanks, I understand that. It’s just inconvenient. At least in my case.
But since I appear to be the only one with this problem, I have to assume that I have a bad controller. It works great on all functions and with all peripherals including Google Home, Alexa, ActionTiles etc. but then for no reason it just drops out of anything Smartthings.
I will try another one.
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The other possibility is that there’s a weakness in the mesh at your house. How far is the fan controller from the SmartThings hub?
Of course. In every day use that wouldn’t make much sense, but for resetting the zigbee module it seems fine. I can understand how in your case, if you have to reset a breaker in the basement, that’s inconvenient. But it’s not an inherent design flaw of the device. Hope you get yours working as intended, good luck.
When this device stops communicating with ST how do you get it back online. Does it come back on its own after a period of time?
That was the first thing I suspected, but I have other elements that are much farther and work flawlessly. The controller is about 12 to 14 feet away from the hub. And it did work perfectly fine for more than a week.
Sounds like it may be a bad unit, then. Annoying, but it happens.
That is an excellent question for which I honestly do not have an answer, because I’m trying all kinds of things that do not seem to work and then all of a sudden, the thing is working again.
Obviously, I have never actually reset it, since I was trying to do the reset from the remote. I usually end up rebooting the hub, which at first does not seem to do anything, but then the controller starts working.
By the way, I tried the reset with the breaker and I never got the flashing light either. Which would point even more to a faulty controller.
Thank you all for pitching in and helping
I do have another. I will switch them and see.
I assume I should remove the first one from Smartthings first right?
What is the best way to do this? From the app or the IDE?
Always best to remove devices from the app. The IDE is for when all else fails.
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Yep… I agree that points to a faulty controller. Try this, leave the power off to that controller for a few minutes before attempting the reset process. See if that helps in the light blinks signifying a full reset.
After a few trials, I was finally able to reset that controller and get those flashing lights confirmation.
I am now trying something offered by Stephan. So far it’s working well.
Thanks to everyone or their help
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I’m 0/2 now. Dug into my family room fan only to find this…
Has nobody else run into this problem of being over the amperage?
The sticker says the motor is 102W and the lights 120W (2x60 or 3x40?).
If you use LED bulbs you should stay under 1.25A.
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I think you maybe looking at the specifications incorrectly which is easy to do. 
Zigbee Device Specified Maximum Ratings
MAX. motor amps: 1.25Amps
MAX. light watts: 190Watts (Incandescent or electronic ballast)
To determine power in watts use:
Power = Voltage * Current
150W = 120V x 1.25A
Your Hunter fan motor is 102W and below the Zigbee device max motor rating of 150W.
Your Hunter fan lighting max is 120W and below the Zigbee device max light rating of 190W.
You are not over amperage and are good to go.
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The reasoning behind the rubber grommet is because some ceiling fan do not have enough clearance between the cowl and the mounting base to extend the antennas outside the cowl. You risk cutting into the insulation and grounding the antenna or worse cutting the antenna wires. The rubber grommet (or some physical obstruction) is needed to provide the necessary space for the antenna wires to pass through safely. On one of mine I had this problem and I just made a very slight dent on the cowl.
That is very possible what is causing the long delay in Home Depot releasing the Wink Enabled White Universal Ceiling Fan Premier Remote Control is fear of the average DIY getting a high failure rate and damaging the antenna?
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