…assuming your remote is a HomeDepot remote your chances are good that you can set the RF correctly . Being able to set the dip switches to communicate over RF is only half the issue however. Now the question is all about can the two devices understand each other. You can always test it and it won’t hurt anything.
It is sort of like me making a phone call to someone in France. Making the phone call is only getting me half way there because if I don’t speak french we really are not getting anything accomplished. But maybe I understand just a little french so I can do just a couple things.
Here is the actual packing list with their reference numbers and item numbers for each part as well which they should be able fill the order with. However I don’t know which item is the receiver and which is the remote control
Not like that… I have had status issues only where the indications are out of sync but that is all being worked on. Here give this one a try [quote=“jimimoore, post:26, topic:81408”]
it’s my only Zigbee device.
Sure that is a possibility since you only have one so far. How far away is your Hub? And how difficult was it to pair originally?
You can see in the IDE under MyDevices the status of a device and the Last Activity. But the new mobile app can also tell you this now. If you have the Device Health enabled it is suppose to flag you when a device is no longer available. In you mobile app you can check this under the More, Additional Features heading. You can do a search here in the forums and some people turn this off because of other issues but I can’t remember why.
The GE Link bulb should be OK, I have about 10 of these and a couple things to consider is when someone flips off the light it can’t be repeating and they do drop off the network from time to time and need to be reset by flipping the light switch 5 times , on then off every two seconds.
Do a search here in the forums on the Lowe’s Iris smartplug. I heard that it is supposed to not only do Zigbee but also Zwave. I got one of those for my house to boost both. But it’s the newer version that does it not the first generation I think.
In the IDE you can also watch the devices Logging to see if its passing information.
I have been pleased with the latest changes I made with the device handler. It has a new look and feel with the fan control as the primary interface. It works for 90% of what I want so it’s definitely ready for distribution but still working out some additional features to make it more configurable for others. Wish there was a way to store a state so it could be used in some logic control…
Update: my device coding buddies Kevin and Sticks have come through and shown me how easy it really is to store the last state and make it happen the way I want.
Bulbs are one of those “maybe, maybe not” issues. See the bulb FAQ ( this is a clickable link)
And the GE links in particular have their own firmware issues and tend to drop off the network more than any other zigbee brand, so I definitely wouldn’t start with those. Eco-smart or Cree would be a better one to try.
All of that said, in the US many community members like the Lowe’s iris pocket socket. It’s a reliable zigbee repeater.
Whatever repeating device you choose, after you have it paired and in place, you want to get the fan to update its neighbor table so it will use the new repeater.
To initiate this process, you do a “network heal.” For zigbee devices, that means taking the hub off power (including removing any batteries) and leaving it off power for at least 15 minutes. Leave the other zigbee devices on power. This will cause the other devices to go into “panic mode” because they can’t reach the hub. Then when the hub comes back on power all the devices will rebuild their individual neighbor tables. This process can take a little while, so you may not see the full effect until the next day.