Help with wiring 3-Way Linear WS15Z-1 and WT00Z-1 Switches


I may be exhausted, stupid or both, but I have been able to install several Linear WD500Z dimmer switches and they work famously, BUT:

I cannot figure out how to wire any Linear Switch into a 3-Way connection (If there is a thread that describes this, I cannot find it).

I am trying to use the Linear WS15Z-1 and WT00Z-1 in connection but the wiring has me befuddled.

For example, my current wiring has no load when the power is off and no neutrals. It only has a hot “Common” wire and two travelers going between the switches. The Linear WS15Z Switches have a Hot, Load, Neutral and Ground, the Linear WT00Z switches have a Hot, Neutral and Ground.

How do these connect?


I think the reason you only see hot and the two travellers at the switch is because they placed the power source at the light fixture box. Decide which location you want to place the ws15z-1 and wtooz-1. Open the light fixture electrical box and reconfigure the wiring there. You should see around 8 wires. The wtooz-1 needs only hot, neutral and ground so you can tie that at the fixture and cap off the red. For the ws15z-1 use the black for hot, white for neutral, ground for ground and red for load. On the light fixture side. Connect the black to line black, white to line white and red wire to the black on the light and the white wire on the light to neutral. Hope that will help.

Thank you.

That makes sense, but I am at work. I will look at it when I get home and see if it still makes sense there!

Will update all on my success!

Thanks so much.


Somewhat not on the original topic, but didn’t want to create a new thread.

Does anyone know if the Linear WS15Z On/off switch would be suitable to control a gas fireplace? Or is the switch a momentary? It’s a newer Heat and Glo fireplace.


It’s just like a regular switch except with z-wave. If an on/off switch is what you need and have Line, Load and Neutral behind the old switch then I don’t see a problem. Might want to remove the old switch and have a look to be sure.

Did you ever get the wiring on this Linear WS15Z and WS00Z to work as a 3-way light switch? I’m facing the same issue and don’t understand how they tie together. Is there a diagram out there somewhere? Or maybe they just are not talking correctly to ST Hub… Seems the WS15Z switch manually works the lights, the WT00Z is talking to he ST Hub but does nothing with the lights.
I used this guys explanation of how to wire these together…

Hi @intramart, there is no physical tie between the two switches. First I added the 2 switches to ST then using an Aeon Minimote to associate the 2 switches. Not really sure there is other way of doing it. Maybe ST support can help.

you have to include the WS15Z to ST and be able to control it with ST first in order to it Associate to the WT00Z.

Well, I could only seem to force delete the Linear switches from the hub, now they’re useless and I’m no longer able to recognize them on the ST hub. So I kicked out another $120 on a pair of GE 3 way switches and before I add these to the ST Hub, do I need to do this using a minimote or something? There seems to be absolutely no information on the web showing how to setup 3 way switches to the ST HUB and they seem to work differently than everything else I’ve hooked up. The wiring is straight forward, I just don’t understand how they tie together in the ST Hub itself.
Does only one of the switches get recognized on the ST hub and does all the work?
Thanks for any help with this as I have about a dozen of these to install once I figure out the process.

Each device has to be individually joined to the ST hub in order for you to be able to control it via ST.

You can separately use the Aeon Minimote to associate devices to each other, in which case they can talk to each other without going through the hub, but then the hub doesn’t know their status.

There are about 8 different ways to physically wire 3 way set ups.

In the newer ways, only one switch, the master, actually controls the current to the light fixture. The other switch(es), called auxes or auxiliaries, work by sending a request to the master to turn the light on or off.

This request can be sent one of three ways:

  1. via current along a “traveler wire” between the aux and the master.

  2. by sending a wireless request from the aux to the hub, which then sends a wireless request to the master (you can use the Big Switch smartapp for this)

  3. by sending a wireless request directly from the aux to the master via “association.”

So option 1 requires physical wire running between master and aux, but options 2 and 3 do not.

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Totally understand your frustration. You have to reset the switch in order to add it back to ST. Force delete the switch from ST will only reset ST side. Your Linear still stuck with ST.
As for the GE. You don’t need the minimote. Just device discovery with ST. You will see only the master switch when added to ST because the AUX switch is physically slaved to the master switch.

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i usually start any zwave include with a general exclude first and a factory reset on the device, just because even if it’s a new purchase it may have been paired to a test controller at the factory.

Note that just deleting a device from ST doesn’t make the device clear its own settings. And just a factory reset may not clear the controller ID field. So doing a general exclude and a factory reset is often the only way to get the clean slate you need to then do an include. Even if you’re including back to the same controller.

OK… So I tried 3-way GE switches and after 10 minutes they were installed, paired to the hub and working perfectly.
Thanks to all who helped me through this learning curve… :thumbsup:


I’ve tried to replace two pairs of 3-way switches so far. Unfortunately, both appear to require rewiring the light fixtures.

The worst case is one where the power comes into the fixture before going to the two 3way switches. There does not appear to be a way to rewire the switches and fixture using the GE 3way and add-on switches as there is no place for a traveler wire (black is power, red is load, white is neutral). I don’t have a multi-gang box with alternate source of power.

This led me to the Linear WT00Z-1, which is more like a one button scene controller then an add-on switch. I was planning to use method 3, which uses minimote to associate WT00Z to master. But you mention that the hub doesn’t know the status when associated devices talk to each other, so your method 2 sounds better.

Is method 2 noticeably slower than method 3? Also, method 2 won’t work if the ST is down.

Except for cost, the WT00Z-1 seems to be much easier to install than the GE add-on switch since you don’t need the traveler wire. I’m thinking I’ll use my GE add-on for easy wiring situations and WT00Z for harder cases.

Can I use the WT00Z-1 with the GE 3way master switch? I already have a bunch of GE switches.

Under Option #2 you reference “Big Switch smartapp” - this is a new term for me, would you mind explaining further. I have the same WS15Z and WT00Z switch setup - both are communicating with the ST hub, but only the WS15Z actually operates the lights. The WT00Z needs to be associated to the WS15Z somehow.

Can you explain how to associate my WT00Z to the WS15Z - can it be done with ST hub? or does it require some additional hardware?

Updated 1/11/2016
I received the following response from support about setting up 3-way switches:
If you are using any another Smart Switch (not attached via traveler wire) you can associate them with the following steps:

  1. Tap the Star Burst icon in the bottom right corner
  2. Tap “SmartApps”
  3. Tap “SmartThings Recommends”
  4. Tap “SmartLights”
  5. Tap “New Lighting Automation”
  6. Tap “Which lights…” and select the light(s) and/or switch(es) you wish to control
  7. Tap “Done”
  8. Tap “What do you want to do” and select “Turn On” (or ‘Turn on and set level’ if using a dimming device in which you wish to turn on to a setting less than 100%)
  9. Tap “Select Trigger” and select “Switch”
  10. Tap “Which Switch” and select the switch you wish to use to control the other lights/switches
  11. Leave “Turn off as well” set to “ON” if you want slave lights/switches to turn off as well when the master switch is turned off
  12. Configure any optional settings as well such as mode, time, or days
  13. Tap “Next”
  14. Switch “Edit automation name” if you wish to name the automation something specific (optional)
  15. Tap "Done"
    This should get you up and running but please do not hesitate to let us know if you hit any snags or have any further questions :slight_smile:

I am using Linear WT00Z-1 accessory switch to control Linear WS15Z-1 wall switch.

I am not using associating. I am using the Smart Lighting app to let the WT00Z-1 control the master WS15Z-1 via ST. This technique would have worked just as well with GE 3way switches/dimmers. Not sure whether association would work with GE switches since I didn’t try this.