Linear WD500Z installation issues--argh (3 way switch)

I"m trying to hook a WD500Z into a 3 way switch setup in a new house. This would be the master switch and, if I can ever get it working, I would put one of the WT00Z switches as a slave.

Here’s my problem:

In the gang box I have a bundle of white wires (neutral), a bare copper wire (ground), and connected to the old switch were two black wires and a red wire.

Coming out of the WD500Z are a white wire (neutral), green wire (ground), a black and blue wire.

So I have one more wire than I need. I tried hooking the two black wires in the gang box to the black and blue of the switch (in both possible permutations) and capping off the red wire without success.

The corresponding switch across the room that also controls this light (the one I’d attach the WT00Z to) has neutral, ground, a red wire and two black wires as well.

This setup is not dealt with in Linear’s instructions and I can’t find anything online to help me except this diagram ,which seems to represent my situation:

But I’m still at a loss as to what to attach to the WD500Z. Do I connect both black wires in the gang box to a black wire on the switch, and the red wire to the blue wire on the switch?

Thanks in advance.

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I just installed one in a non- 3-way configuration, black to line, blue to then load, white to white, and green to ground. One of the existing black wires is line, the other goes to the load.

If you are working in the box farthest from the load, use the black wire bundled with the red wire for the load. The other one will be the line. You will want to splice the existing red wire into line voltage so that the accessory switch can use it in the downstream box. So, the red, white, and black wires going to the next box would be hooked up to line, house white (should be already), and switch blue. Then in the other box, wire nut the black wires together so that the load is connected back to the switch’s blue wire, connect the aux switch’s black to the red wire, and tied the aux switch’s white wire into the wire nut with the other neutral wires.

If you are working in the box closest to the load, the switch is wired the same way, but the line wire will be the one coming in bundled with the red, and the load will be the one without an associated red wire. In the other box, you wire nut the black wires from the existing switch and the black from the aux switch together, the white from the aux switch into the white bundle, and leave the red unused.

Did that make sense? (Adding pictures)

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it does, thanks–I managed to get it running just about the time you replied to me, and it seems to work fine–well, I should say that the slave switch functions properly, but if I try to turn the light on via the SmartThings app by turning “on” the slave switch, nothing happens. It works fine with the master switch on the app, and I can live with that.


I haven’t done a 3 way setup with the Linears, but I don’t think the slave switch is intended to be connected to ST at all. You just associate it with the master, so it relays the button presses to the master. The slave probably doesn’t understand the incoming commands from ST. I would remove the slave from ST. It’s redundant anyway.

Just to update this thread for what worked for me. Took me way too long to figure it out and I’m an electrical engineer haha (not a PE but still)…
The first image llamas (Mike M.) shows above worked for my kitchen 3 way light.

The issue is that the 3 way lights are in series. The main point is to make your Aux switch simply be provided power no matter what state the light or other Main switch is in.

For the Main switch I bundled the ‘Black switch wire’ with 1 of the ‘black wall wires’ (hot) with the ‘red traveler wall wire’.
The ‘black wall wire’ (load) was connected to the ‘blue switch wire’ (load).

For the aux switch (Note this is just a dumb switch that only connect to the main switch through z-wave pairing. You only are providing it power here).
Connect the ‘black switch wire’ to the ‘red traveler wall wire’.
Tie the two ‘black wall wires’ load and hot wires out of the wall together - do not connect to the switch.

Hope this helps others…


I think I wired Linear switches into my former 3 way boxes the same way you did. Basically, I used the travelers to hook the auxiliary switch in parallel to give it power.

However, I can’t figure out how to associate the aux with the main switch. I’m using a Linear WT00Z aux with a WD500Z. Any thoughts?

Without an association, I was trying to use the Smart Lighting app to link them, but for some reason that will only turn the lights off, but not on.

heat_fan1: Unfortunately I do not think there is a way to link the aux with the main switch using the smartthings app. You have to use something like the Aeon Labs Z-Wave Minimote. You can find it on the Store page. Using the Minimote you can pair the two switches. The switches will be paired even without smartthings. Hope this helps.

I think I realized my problem is that I wired my aux incorrectly. I have it wired into the load from the main to the light; therefore, when the lights are turned off, power to the switch is also turned off.

I’m guessing that when I wire it properly, with uninterrupted power, the Smart Lighting app should control it. Have you tried that?

I have a few of these and I only know one way to tie them together is with a minimote. You won’t be able to control the light physically with the Aux if you don’t associate it to the main switch.

heat_fan1 - I had the same problem. I had the bundle the load, hot and traveler wire together for the AUX switch. This way it has power at all times even if the master switch is off.

Once you have that work it will easily connect with the smartthings app just like any other switch. But in order for it to control the lights you will need the minimote to link the master switch to the aux switch. Once this is done the aux switch will then be able to tell the main switch to turn on or off.
Hope this makes sense.

I’ve put in several of these, and the minimote is key. I’m just about to find out what happens when I exceed the number of ‘groups’ on the minimote, I hope it doesn’t group the groups (turn on multiple 3-way groups).
I have an older house with truly screwed wiring. There aren’t neutrals in most of the boxes. In this case, I’ve been using the Traveler wire to send the neutral over by tying it into whichever box has a neutral. I’m sure this hack is completely against every code that exists, but I’ve been clearly labeling for posterity.

Turns out the Smart Lighting app worked just the way I expected.

Quick refresher: my aux dimmer (call it B) is wired the best I can at the moment, which isn’t correct. It’s getting its power from the load between my main dimmer (call it A) and the light. Therefore, it only has power when A is on.

To test my theory, I used the Smart Lighting app to link the aux dimmer (B) to another switch (call it C) in my hub (i.e., not the one connected to the main and the one I want it controlling). As long as that A is turned in, providing power to B, I can control C through B, no Minimote necessary.

Now, all I have to do is get uninterrupted power to the box B is in, and it will be able to control A. That’s going to take a trip to the attic I’m not quite ready for.

Ok I’ve tried different methods to get my 3-way switch to work and have been unsuccessful so far. In my current switch I have a Black wire connected to common on the switch and a black and red wire connected to the other side of the switch. My goal is to leave the aux switch alone and just change the main switch out. Is this possible and how would you connect the wires in this situation.

It’s impossible. You have to do both the main and aux switch.

Thanks jimmy. Ok if I have to do both (I do have extra aux linear switches). Which of the wires would need to be connected. I’m sorry those pictures above and the text are somewhat confusing to me.

The first step is to open up both boxes (and maybe the fixture(s)) and figure out what wires you have in each. Then find your match on the diagrams here:

Thanks again. That site is great. I’ll take a look and hopefully I can understand the above diagrams better.

I managed to get my switches on a stairway working and paired with a minimote, but the auxiliary switch is very slow to respond. The main switch is instant, but the auxiliary takes roughly 15 to 20 seconds after pressed to change the light. Could this still be a wiring issue or my pairing?

Have the same problem with the WD500Z-1 in 3 way setup…one extra wire.
Old switch has these available: red, black, black, ground/copper, white (not used)
New WD500Z-1 has: black(line), blue (load), green (ground), white (neutral)

From previous comments it appears the solution is to combine two wires together.

(with Junction box wire on left - WD500Z-1 wire on right)

  1. red + black
  2. black +blue
  3. ground/copper+green (no question here)
  4. white+white (no question here)

What do I do with the extra black wire which was previously used? combine with #1 or #2 ?
Or should i get a different switch which supports this type of 3-way circuit ?

I’m using the switch to control a 1-way light and it works great.