Has anyone tried the new GE Z-Wave Ceiling Fan Wall Switch (12730)?

My use case is this. I have a fan in my kitchen, with a light. This is controlled by one switch on one wall and another on another wall. Would I use the 12730 and a 12723 add on switch? I’d rather not control the fan by the pull string and it sounds like this can control the fan from the switch and the app.

Edit: also, if i’ve got just a switch to operate the fan. Will this switch work for just that or should i get a regular switch?

Unfortunately you can’t do either, you can’t use a smart switch in this instance other than the 12722 and even then I’m not sure it’ll be okay with the fan motor.

That being said, I’m not sure how old your house is or how nice the electricians were when building your house. All my bedrooms had a combined switch just like yours but when I take out the switch there is an additional wire already connected to the switch or loose in the box and when I take down the fan, there’s an additional wire already there.

Work taking a look if you know what you are doing otherwise have an electrician take a look for you. If you are as lucky then you just need to change the electrical box for the switch to a 2-gang one and then you can use a 12730 for the fan and a 12722 / 12724 for the lights.

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Thanks! House is only about 10 years old. I’ll have to have an electrician come over to tell me if i have what you describe. I’ve been able to replace some switches, but i don’t think i’m so inclinded or knowledgable to figure this out.

Yep just need to make sure it’s either pre-wired (3 out of my 4 electrical boxes were) or already has the extra wire connected to the same switch so the fan and the lights are connected to the same switch which was the case with one of my fans.

Also, and this is critical, make sure you have neutrals in the electrical box! Without a neutral wire, you will not be able to use any of the 127xx range of GE switches at all, it’s a complete show stopper.

Know this is an older thread but seemed like the best place to ask… anyone else have issues with the GE Z-Wave Fan switch only doing high and low? I’ve got three fans in the house, all the same, with 12730s and they all operate differently. The bedroom operates high, medium, low as expected. The living room is only high and low, despite multiple IDEs and being able to see the switch make the change to medium - selecting medium takes the speed to the same as low, and the kitchen does REALLY low, medium and a much slower high than the other two.

Seems insane but I can’t figure out what’s going on. Fans are all set to high at the chain and I really don’t think it’s the switches. More than likely the fans but I wanted to see if anyone else had seen anything similar.

I had this same problem until I switched to the DTH found in the OP in this thread:

Yup, that’s the one I settled on and still has the issue. Really starting to think it’s a physical issue of some kind with the fans themselves. Interesting that you had a similar issue with other DTEs. Gives me hope it may be fixable.

Can this GE Smart Fan Control be used with these new fans that are coming out that have only remotes?

I need to control both the LIGHT and the FAN.

For example:

Yes for just fan control. Nope, for your use case.

I use the 12730 for on/off/speed control and separate switch for the light. I’m about to do the same thing for another fan/light combo in a friend’s house, but instead of a separate wall switch for the light we’re using an Aeon microswitch device that will be up in the canape.

Ok thanks. I tried that Aeon switch myself and sent it back because the wire connectors are just the cheapest connectors I’ve ever encountered and the thing scared me. I wrote to them and they told me they are improving the connectors in their third generation design that is coming out soon.

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Hi, i bought 4 of these GE Z-Wave switches and i currently have 4 locations where the switch turns on/off the outlet on the other side of the wall. I’m planning to install these Raptor ceiling fans that are LED and dimmable, is it better to change the outlets to Always on? or leave them to allow the switch to turn on/off the outlet where the fan will be pulling power from?
or should i be pulling power for the fans from the switch, which i assume always should have power?

Are you sure the fan will be pulling power from the outlet? Ideally, you need two switches, 1 to control the dimmable light and the other to control the fan speed. If the switches are connected to outlets now, you might want to have a talk with an electrician as to how to get two power lines from the switch to the fan/light combo. The box with the switches will also need a neutral wire.

The outlet should be left out of the equation.

My electrician gave me options where i can pull power from (the switch or the outlet). I’m not sure, but I think i’m going to have him run the power from the outlet. Turn on power to the fan/light using any smart switch. I’ll control the fan using the remote included with the fan after switch is in the on position. 8 years ago, i wired a room like this using a toggle switch. The switch just turns the power on/off for the fan, so i use the remote to turn on the fan and adjust the speed, or also turn off the light. When the power in the house goes off, the light turns on by default, but fan stays in off position.

But…why not have “total” control of the fan/light through SmartThings? If you only run one pair of wire to the fan then you will only get the control you mentioned above but If you are pulling wire, then why not do it proper? A fan/light combo needs to separate lines and share the neutral. Power is pulled from the switch and then breaks off into two separate switches. From there a 14/3 combo is ran to the light.

The sister dimmer switch to the 12730 (fan controller) is the 12729. There is also the newer Z-Wave Plus switches but I don’t know if the fan controller has been updated yet.

I would even go as far as putting a 3 gang box in. Leave the outlet switched (smart of course) and make room for the two additional switches.

I rather say, Alexa, turn the fan on medium. Alexa, turn the light down to 20% vs Alexa, turn the light switch on, grab the remote and control things manually.


i agree with you i wouldn’t mind being able to control the entire fian with my voice, but my electrician told me my GE Z-Wave ceiling fan switch will not work with the fans i bought, which is a minkaAire Raptor F617L-GM, 6 speed, dimmable LED fan.
in the specs it says
Works with remote control: Yes
Included Remote Cotnrol: RC600
Works with Wall Control: No

Unfortunately, MinkaAire fans are remote only and proprietary at that. They are nice for retrofits, because you don’t have to pull electrical for a switch, but no ST integration. You need to go old school and order a pull-chain fan that can be switch controlled to get solid ST integration and just cut off the pull chains. I went with a couple nice Kichler fans and Leviton fan control switches that ST likes. Work like a charm.

Oh I understand now. Looked up that fan and boy is it sweet! I guess sometimes you have to do what you have to do. I really do like the fan integration into SmartThings. Very useful for various scenarios and it saves on A/C for sure. All of my exhaust fans are integrated as well. 7 fans and 5 exhaust.

Since it is a wireless remote, maybe someone will eventually get it integrated into SmartThings… you never know!

Good Luck.

MinkaAire needs to get off its butt and share their remote control protocol with, at least, Logitech for the Harmony integration. Surprised they haven’t gotten there yet. Until they share, though, nobody is going to be able to integrate it.

Several threads on the fan control, this is a the oldest (and perhaps the wisest?) A few fundamental questions on this device, please?

  1. This is a Zwave device, but MUST the ZWave controller be functioning to control the fan FROM THE PHYSICAL SWITCH?
  2. I see Jasco offering the 14287 ZWavePlus Fan Switch…will the existing 12730 Device Handlers work with the 14287? Jasco 14287
  3. Is this switch basically a 3 state PWM “dimmer”, with a waveform tuned to an inductive load like an single-phase AC Induction Motor, rather than a light?


Nope. The switch is hardwired to the fan so that you can still control it without a controller like ST.

It should, but I personally haven’t tried the new switch.

That I don’t know, so hopefully someone in the Community with electrical experience can chime in.