To be honest I don’t remember what I did on mine but the manual does say cycle power so maybe the manual is wrong however…
tell me exactly how you are doing the steps you are doing
I bought the remote yesterday and I am still unable to power on the fan or light. Guess it must be a defective unit.
I did not get a manual with either the remote or the receiver but I referenced the manual for the complete fan. Is that the manual you are using as well?.
Now that you have the remote and are unable to control the fan locally… that is defective unit or your wiring? Verify you set the codes the same on receiver and transmitter (see pg 8 of manual).
If so then let’s look strictly at your wiring. Can you post a picture of the details of the wiring connection you did? See pg 10 and let’s verify your wiring steps. Installation Manual
I have the manual links for both and they are the same setup I believe from memory.
I can’t take a pic with everything connected because there is no place to hang my fan once it’s dismounted. See the pics below.
The black hot is connected to the red AC.
The white is connected to the white AC.
The black, blue, and white on the opposite end of the receiver were connected to the corresponding white blue and black on my Hampton Bay fan.
The remote and receiver had all dips set to ON which is the default.
Bummer, you got everything right on, it sure seems to me as well that you may have gotten a bad DOA receiver. 
FYI, Who is your fan manufacturer? On every ceiling fan I have worked on, there is some kind of a hook or a bolt/nut in the cowl so you could leave it up hanging while you make the connections. In my picture below it is hidden but basically a bolt on my cowl simply hangs in a hole on the ceiling mounting base. Maybe yours is missing the bolt? I ask because this could be related to the problem… you might have a faulty wiring/power connection due to trying to not having a way to support your fan while wire nutting the wires to check out the connections? Especially if you accidentally held the fan in such a way to stress the wires into the device causing the failure to be inside at the PCB solder joint? I’m just pulling at straws here of course. 
Can you confirm the power is there and the fan works without the receiver?
I had a Hampton bay fan that refused to work with any remote unit (tried 3 different ones )
Also if you can, try using an extension wire to plug the receiver into a working outlet to confirm if the receiver shows up in ST. Make sure you cap off the load wires or if you have spare bulb holders plug them in with a bulb each to simulate load before plugging it in make sure you take all necessary precautions
It’s a hampton bay. I tried to search for it using the UPC and the model shown in the last pic but found nothing. There is a screw on either end but I figured it would put too much stress on the fan casing. I’ll give it a shot when I find the energy to reinstall the fan…for the 3rd time. Putting a lot of pressure on my already bad back :(.
I’m no electrician. I know just enough to kill myself so I won’t be trying that.
I believe the receiver is getting power. I have a load tester and it detects power coming through the wires that connect to the fan.
The only thing that seems weird to me is that the ground wire connects to the plastic housing that is mounted to the ceiling. Shouldn’t the ground connect to something metallic that touches the fan as well? Again…I’m no electrician but thats what I’ve always seen. See pic of plastic housing below.
I saw the blurry pic you just put up for @stephack so now I see the mount better, that style if I am not mistaken is supposed to be using a downrod to support it in the bracket while you are wiring. See the example below of a Harbor Breeze mount
Yup both of mine are like that. Supposed to have a rod floating in them.
I would break out the meter or buy a cheap $10 one on amazon and make sure you have power where it should be on both sides of the control box. I don’t think ground is the issue.
Unfortunately, there is no downrod on my fan…probably due to the low ceiling in the bedroom. I looked at the manuals for other similar fans and the ground connects to the downrod…which I do not have.
Everything in this house is a pain in the butt with regard to electrical. No nuetral in the switches, no downrod in the fan. Argg…bought this house a year ago…love it, but hate the wiring for home automation.
maybe some help here, seems the home depot fans like yours can still do it when the downrod is removed due to low ceilings. Check out pg8 on a similar style bracket like yours.
If using close-to-ceiling mounting, hang the
fan on the hook provided by utilizing one of the holes at the
outer rim of the ceiling canopy.
WARNING: The hook as shown is only to balance fan
while attaching wiring. Failure to hang as shown may
result in hook breaking, causing the fan to fall. Hook
must pass from inside to outside of canopy.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/7e/7efe221b-06cd-4a3b-b878-20e6ae7ae23f.pdf
i just ordered it… ill post my findings in review of First Impressions
Well…being that my wife always hated the fan in our bedroom…I went ahead and replaced it with a Home Decorators fan (that has a downrod…my neck and shoulders say thanks).
Unfortunately the receiver STILL didn’t work. I took it back to King of Fans who tested it and verified that it was defective and gave me a new one. Just installed and working … WoopidyDoo!!
@dalec, @BatraD and @celblazer thanks for your suggestions.
@dalec have you posted your customized version of the DH anywhere? I’d love to test it out.
Universal Ceiling Fan Wireless Wall Control -OR- Universal Ceiling Fan Thermostatic Remote
The answer is YES. More detail in my First Impressions review but basically both of these optional remotes will work like a champ in conjunction with the ZigBee device. Edit: The dumb receiver that comes with both kits basically isn’t used when you connect to the zigbee receiver.
I’ll get a video uploaded later today
Thanks for checking. This is certainly good news. Opens up opportunities for more remotes. We have an average of 3 remotes per room (keep loosing them).
I know it’s been discussed, but I’m not sure if the conclusion was definitive, so I would like to make sure that you can pair the receiver with Smartthings without the remote.
Hi just want to confirm a couple things.
The Hampton bay universal remote and wall switch work with any fan model??
If I purchase the Inwall controller I dont have to purchase the remote?
It will pair directly with Smartthings?
I see in the video it has thermostatic control. That functions with Smart things and the wall control only without the remote?
So here is my understanding of the scenario. It consists of the following components
- your dumb AC motor fan
- A specific hard to acquire (must be purchased as a replacement part) Zigbee/RF Fan Canopy Receiver
- A thermostatic remote on same RF frequency as 2.
- A In Wall RF Controller on same RF frequency as 2.
- A SmartThings ecosystem with the Zigbee/RF Fan Canopy Receiver added as a Thing with a custom device type handler.
So if you use the “Thing” in SmartThings with the custom DTH you will be able to interact with the fan and light via the Zigbee portion of the receiver. It will translate those zigbee commands into specific actions to turn on the light, fan/speed.
If you use the In Wall RF Controller you’ll be able to interact with the fan and light via the RF portion of the receiver. It will translate those RF commands into specific actions to turn on the light, fan/speed.
If you set a temp on the thermostatic remote, the logic in the remote will, upon a certain temperature being reached, interact with the fan and light via the RF portion of the receiver. It will translate those RF commands into specific actions to turn on the light fan/speed.
So the last two scenarios aren’t very unique these methods have been around for awhile and will work with a properly paired RF receiver in most AC motor fans where said receiver will fit… The unique thing about this setup is the additional functionality provided by the Zigbee chip on the receiver. So its the one device by which you can interact manually via SmartThings, Automatically via a Smart Things SmartApp, Manually via a RF wall switch, Automatically via a thermostatic RF remote. Any interactions via wall switch and or remote should be completely independent of SmartThings Ecosystem/Cloud.