GE zwave 3 way switch wiring problem need help

I’m trying to install a GE zwave 3 way switch kit, with relay and add on switch. One of the existing switches controls kitchen light and dining room light (2 gang box) the other is controls kitchen light. I’m using the kit for the three way switch, and installing a GE zwave dimmer switch for the dining room light. Got it all connected blue lights on both switches. Dining room light switch worked. Kitchen light switch would not turn on the light from either switch on the three way hookup. I believe I had it all

connected properly. Any ideas on what’s wrong.

Have you had a chance to look at the FAQ yet?


Couldn’t find any thing regarding the same type of installation. I am using the 3 way switch kit with the add on switch for the kitchen light. Im also installing a ge zwave dimmer in the other switch for the dining room light. The picture posted is the gang box. It controls the kitchen and dining room lights. I’m putting GE zwave Relay, and dimmer in that box. I’m putting the add on in the other box that controls the kitchen light also see picture.

, I got it all connected, had blue lights on both master switches in the gang box. Dining room light worked good. Kitchen light would not turn on from either switch, master or add on switch. Any ideas, help?

Can you list the exact models you have in each location? I’m having a little trouble following your description because you said you had one Light that has control of both the kitchen and the dining room light, but you also said it was a two gang box, which would more likely be two separate switches.

So, GE doesn’t make a relay in zwave, they make binary (on/off) switches, dimmer switches, and add on switches.

So again, if you could give us the model number for each switch position, that would help a lot.

This is a zwave Relay:

This is the GE binary switch. It does have a relay inside, but it also has the complete switch mechanism.

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Also, the FAQ should help. Wiring for network switches is different then wiring for non-network switches. There are at least eight different ways to wire a non-networked three-way, and not all of those will work for a network switch. If you just swap in a network switch for non-networked switch you can indeed end up with a situation where neither the master or the auxiliary will turn on the light.

There are community members who will be glad to help you, but because of the many possible variations, it’s a matter of going through step-by-step, and being very specific.

One more thought: I’m sure this is a very frustrating situation. Since you have the dining room light working you could probably leave that one alone for now.

The next step will be to get the master for the kitchen light working. You don’t even have to think about the add on for this next step. With the GE three-way kit, the add on is literally just a wall-mounted remote control for the master switch. All it does is communicate via pulse over the traveler wire to the master and it is the master that controls the load. (This is one of the ways in which networked switches are different from non-network switches.) so for now, just focus on getting the master switch for the kitchen light to work. Once it’s working, you’ll be able to attach the add-on to it.

Depending on the exact wiring, it may be that the kitchen master has to go where you currently have the add on. It depends where the load wire for the kitchen light is. But that’s why the details matter.

For the kitchen light I’m using part no’s 47509, and 47510. Im putting 45709 on the left side of the gang box, and 45710 is going into the other box. For the dining room light I’m using part no. 12724, it going into the right side of the gang box.

. Sorry just noticed that the three way switch is a Jasco switch. Not sure if that would make a diiference.

Jasco is the manufacturer for all the GE zwave devices. They just licensed the GE name. So that part is fine. :sunglasses:

The next step is to figure out exactly which wires you have in each of the two positions and how your current set up is wired. I can’t help anymore with that, but there are a number of community members who can. Hopefully someone will jump in soon.

I’m with @JDRoberts on this. Your description is very confusing?
Also Since dimmer is working we’ll ignore that.
On your 3 way setup.

On the master switch you should have:
Line hooked to the incoming power wire from breaker panel
neutral to return wire to breaker
load hooked to wire going to the light.
Traveler to other switch.

You should be able To wire the main switch without hooking up the traveler wire and make the light work. Smart switch wiring is NOT the same as dumb switch wiring.

This is all covered in the link @JDRoberts posted in post number 2. It has drawings and examples of the common 3 way setups. You NEED to look in there at the examples and see how to wire what you see in your physical wiring. Just referencing the wiring for the light your trying to wire as a 3 way.

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Dude, be careful. Electrical errors can cause shock, fires, and death. Make sure you know what you’re doing before you do it.

I recommend​ pigtailing the line(hot wire going into the box) vs using jumper wires. First, I would disconnect everything (the power at the breaker first, then both switches in the box your working in.) , Next, test all wires for electrical current with the proper tool (no touchy), if there’s current, don’t work on it, too dangerous. Then on a piece of paper map out what every wire in that box is and where it goes to and where its connected to. If you can’t label all of them, do not work on that box. There are grounds, neutrals, common, line, traveler, etc. Also, electrical code requires a proper crimp or pigtail for ground connections. The ge switches have wiring diagrams on the instructions.

Equipment grounding conductors must be spliced together with a device listed for the purpose [110.14(B) and 250.148(A)]. Note: Wire connectors of any color can be used with equipment grounding conductor splices, but green wire connectors can only be used with equipment grounding conductors.

· Equipment grounding conductors must terminate in a manner such that the disconnection or the removal of a receptacle, luminaire, or other device won’t interrupt the grounding continuity [250.148(B)].

So that means pigtailed grounding conductors also. (Bare wire), and of course another neutral pigtail as well. Unless these boxes have separate breakers on separate circuits.

From your pictures we can’t see the lines coming into​ the box. So we can’t tell which is line, load etc. Be careful!

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