Yup, Your right, The traveler on my other 3 way that works only has like 15-25v…
Have you removed the light fixture to see what is connected at that point? Is the light fixture in between the two switches and maybe some re-wiring is needed there?
Yea, The wires are correct. I even did a polarity test by tying both travelers together and then putting the multimeter on the other end and those are indeed the wires… Gave up on the aux for now since the other side is working. I figured I would finish the rest of the house and come back to this 
Thanks so much for your help!
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I never comment on specific wiring setups online, but one obvious question for any zwave three way is if you’ve put the aux on the correct side of the master. It’s not intuitive.
The following set of instructions for a Jasco device is particularly good at laying out options for a zwave 3 way, so just for general interest here it is:
http://www.zwaveproducts.com/layout/manuals/GE-45612_User-Manual.pdf
according to the pic above looks like they brings 120V over to box B on the black wire labelled 120V by @Jon_Brodi. I bet you the switch beside the one you are trying to change out on box B is a GE master switch? That switch needs 120V from that black wire you capped off.
Using a 3 way dimmer or on/off for a three way switch, do I need to also use the AUX switch or can I continue to use the other existing (old) toggle switch in conjunction with the GE master on/off or dimmer switch?
You also have to replace the accessory switch.
The reason is that in a nonnetworked set up, a three-way is typically wired so that the power only runs through one switch at a time. Turn the power on at one will turn it off at the other switch.
But in order for Z wave switches to work, each switch has to have power at all times so that even though it appears to be off, the radio will work so that it can hear the next “on” command from the network.
For this reason, if you don’t replace the AUX switch, using it will probably continue to turn off power to the new networked master switch, and then network commands won’t work.
There may be additional wiring changes required as well, it just depends on the exact set up.
OK thanks. I tried installing an on/off switch and dimmer switch last night into a 3-gang box that also happens to have a 3-way switch for a GE dimmer I installed in the front hall. The front hall GE switch worked but when I tried to install the two other smart switches into the 3-gang with the secondary switch, I couldn’t get them to work (They are all daisy chained together). My hope is that if I install a AUX in between the two that everything will work at that point. I was up wayyy too late last night trying to figure it out! I will pick up a AUX switch today and see how it goes.