GE 3 Way switch install

(Duo) #1

I installed the ge 3 way switch the other day and have had nothing but problems. The auxiliary switch does not function. It will not turn the light on our off. However when I remove the switch from the equation I am unable to shut the light off. It will turn itself back on.
I wired the switches as the manual said but still am unable to get the aux switch to work.

(Corey McLaughlin) #2

I also install a GE Z-Wave (Dimmer) 3-Way switch set the other day. My issue was I had no neutral on the aux. side since one is not needed for a typical 3-way switch installation. Once I repurposed one of the 3 wires as a neutral it worked like a champ. Remember the aux switch is only sending a signal to the master unit not completing the circuit. While wiring mine up I was thinking about completing the circuit which was the wrong way to think about it.

I hope that helps

(Duo) #3

I found a solution. I did some more searching and found another article here in the community. This guy had the exact same issue I did. How he solved it was to pull a regular switch from elsewhere in his home, because they are the same switch the 3-way and the regular on/off, and replace the 3-way. I did this and it works fine.
I put the 3-way on/off back in place of the old on/off i have had for a year and it works… if I wanted the light to always be on. So the switch that came from the 3-way package seems to be the problem.

(Leslie Vaughn) #4

I had the same problem and finally figured out this switch has internal electronics that relieve power from the line side terminal and need the neutral connected to complete that circuit. It is not obvious on the switch schematic but reading the instructions it is stated. As soon as I made that connection the switch worked perfectly!


how exactly did you do this I ran into this issue the other day as well

(Corey McLaughlin) #6

The problems I had when I first installed them was thinking the new Z-Wave switches would be wired up exactly the same as the dumb switches. This is not the case as the Z-Wave switched require both a positive and negative for power and then the switch legs for them to work correctly.

Does this help?