I recently had a GE 12722 Z-Wave switch die. It died in the same way many others have reported (it wouldn’t turn on, even manually). So I replaced it and decided to take it apart instead of trashing it. Here’s some pictures! Let me know if there’s anything you want a better photo of. I don’t see any obvious signs of failure on the circuit boards.
I just had one fail also. took it apart, first 2 screws are a pain, and also could find no obvious problems. If anyone comes up with a solution I would be interested.
I suspect the relay is broken. 507HN-1AH-F-S - You can buy one online and replace the old relay, you will need a solder.
Would you want to try replacing the relay? https://www.bonanza.com/listings/888N-1AH-F-S-12VDC-Relay-Song-Chuan-Brand-New-/445157422
I had two die when the power was turned off (the latter when I turned off and on the common breaker when trying to reset the first). Though, they were turning on and off about one or two cycles a second, rather than just staying off as you noted in the first message. I also opened mine up (Sheenway 45709 RF Board 20130718_V1.3), the main chip is ZW0301 G1648HS, which has a datasheet at https://media.digikey.com/pdf/data%20sheets/zensys%20pdfs/zm3102n.pdf
The unsoldered header on the left (J2) connects to Notch numbers 11, 1, 2, 8, 9, 7, (not populated R5 to 10, and not populated R6 to 15). That is: VCC, GND, RESET_N, SCK, MOSI, MISO (& RXD, TXD). These correspond to ICSP/SPI. https://airbus-cyber-security.com/dumping-firmware-z-wave-asic/ details some ICSP usage on a different board (but the same chip). In my case I think the chip has gotten into a bad state and needs to be reset, so I might try tying RESET_N to ground.
(2 URL limit)
For the relay, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Song-Chuan/507HN-1AH-F-S-24VDC?qs=gTYE2QTfZfTnYx9H%2B6B77A%3D%3D has the datasheet, looks like 507HN-1AH-F-S on my board. You could check the voltage across the coil pins to see if it’s being energized, if it is then the relay is bad, but if not then something upstream (might be the main chip again).
I have two switched that went bad after a power outage.
I checked the wires using a multimeter and the switch is getting power but fails to turn on even manually.
I’m going to order some of these relays and see if I can get them going again. I’ll post back and let you all know how it goes.
Any luck with replacing the relays? Curious if that worked.
I’ve ran into this issue a few times after years of using a switch. I’ve lost 2 out 15 in four years. The first one I lost, I didn’t do much troubleshooting - just replaced. On the second, I pulled it completely apart and used 3.3V and GND off a RPi to power the RF card while disassembled. The switch registered and functioned, I could control it using the physical buttons or remotely via ST. To me, this seems to be a systemic issue with the rectifier circuitry - causing under-voltage issues converting AC to DC for the electronics. I’ll tinker with non-functional switch a bit more to see if this can be reasonably replaced but not likely.
One of my switches died this morning. The switch kept making a clicking noise while the blue light was flashing. I took it apart and searched for the relay and found this discussion. Has anyone successfully fixed the switch by replacing the relay?
i got the four screws out of my device and removed the back cover, along with the white plastic parts on the the front, but can’t figure out how to further disassemble. there is what appears to be a rivet on the metal side. did you have to drill this out?
I didn’t have to drill anything out. I believe all that was holding it together was the screws and some plastic clips.
It looks like The Signal Path on YouTube has finally diagnosed the issue with our ZW4005’s. It looks like a bad capacitor on the high voltage board is the culprit causing the low voltage board to not receive proper power.
I have 4 symptomatic switches myself I want to repair. I have yet to source the correct capacitor or attempt this repair but this looks very promising.
I also had a failed ZW4005 switch. After Jasco replaced it under warranty and did not want the original back I did the repair as described by The Signal Path. Measured the capacitor and it was 20 nF instead of 10 uF. Replaced with a 10 uF, 35 volt unit and the switch is working again.The hard part is separating the boards. Thanks Shahriar.