Should have mentioned that - it’s configured as a Z-Wave Virtual Momentary Contact Switch. It works exactly the same in the ST app as it does when I’m at the physical switch - I have to push the button twice once it’s gone to sleep and powered itself off.
I figured out the issue with my garage door opener. I have an app that disables power to the garage door when we leave and at night so that it can’t be opened by someone with a code scanner. Apparently after power is cycled to the opener (an older Craftsman) it won’t respond to an open command until receives it twice after having power for 10-15 seconds. If power is never cycled then it opens on the first command from any device/opener. My solution will be to make a custom version of the app I’m using to disable power so that it sends a single switch command about 15 seconds after enabling power again.
Is the LED controllable? For example, can you program it to be on only when the door is closed?
I had the same problem. My Genie model 1000 has a wall console that has three functions ( light control, door control, and door lock) but only uses two wires. So simply shorting the two wires does NOT open the garage door.
I found out that you can have two wall consoles connect to the same opener. So I bought a second wall console and took it apart.
All you need to do is remove the two terminal screws on the back and then pry out the circuit board. On the front side of the board (side facing the buttons). There is a white membrane that create the three buttons. Pull the plastic off. It will expose the foil areas that are the button contacts.
The main contacts, in the middle, are used to open and close the door. You have a center foil pad and a donut foil ring around the center contact. You will need to solder a wire on to both the center pad and the donut pad.
The easy way to do this it to tint both the foil pads and the wire before you solder the wire to the circuit board. This way you will use as little time and heat as need to make the connection. The wire should be small that 20 or 22 gage wire. Be careful not to create a solder bridge between the center pad and the donut. keeping the exposed wire very short will help.
Now you have a pair of wire that can be connected to the LFM-20 blue relay wires. Connect the hacked wall console in parallel with the original wall console. you should get a red LED on both consoles. I used a terminal strip to secure all the wires.
Now you have the original wall console for the normal wall button and the hacked wall console for the SmartThing controller.
Yes you could make this all work with ONE wall controller but this was a safer and more of a modular approach. Plus if things go wrong It is very easy to disconnect and remove.
I have photos, but being a NEW user I can not upload yet. 
Interesting. I too have a Genie but don’t recall the model. I pulled the controller off the wall that also has the same three functions open/close, light and lock. I bridges the two screws with a screw driver and the door opened and closed. I figured I’d have no issue connecting right up to the zfm-80. But now I’m questioning that.
I have a Genie with the same functions as yours. I installed the relay where the wires enter the garage door opener and it works fine. The light function works off a resistance to ground principle. Dead short and the opener opens/closes. The circuit with the light has a resistor and when it sees that voltage drop across the resistor it turns on/off the light. I’ve found the best way to install these is to wire a 120v plug on one end and plug into the same outlet as the garage door opener.
I use the Remotec ZFM-80, defined in SmartThings as a momentary contact switch, with a Genie Accelerator II GDO, it and it works. It’s wired up as follows… The only problem is that although this worked for ~24 hrs, the wall button stopped working shortly thereafter. I can still use clicker remotes and the Remotec relay (through SmartThings app) to open/close the GDO, but the wall button no longer works. Still researching a fix for that.
Hi guys
Just got one today and trying to figure out how to put this zfm-80 in to inclusion mode? The push button apparently is for both turning on/off the switch and putting it in the inclusion mode - just trying to pair it my controller
Thanks in advance
Does anyone know how to exclude the ZFM-80US by using the push button on the front of the Z-wave device. I have a Vera Plus and the device naturally disappeared after I had to do a master reset to clear a error message I was receiving about another device.
Remotec Technology Ltd web sites are not responding for me
The manual that came with the device only states of excluding the device using the Controller.
Which I cannot do.
Any help out there?
Regards
Also having the same problem, pairing Remotec ZFM-80 with ST…
I ditched the Vera Plus for Homeseer and the Remotec functions properly.
If you do not need your Remotec ZFM-80 I may purchase it from you as a spare for my system.
Let me know here if you are interested.
I’ve got the ZFM-80 linked to SmartThings and my delay is calibrated perfect for allowing the garage door to open and close completely before the unit switches OFF.
Question: How complicated would it be to have a different read out on the ST display?
- I would like to see OPEN / CLOSED displayed instead of ON / OFF.
The display would have to alternate as the garage door is opened/closed. For every ON-then-OFF function, the display would indicate OPEN or CLOSED.
How do you get the zfm-80 connected to smartthings? I can’t seem to get smartthings able to see it to connect to it. I don’t understand how to include/exclude it to get it into pairing mode.
Did you ever figure this out? Mine disappeared after a ST hub reboot and I cannot figure out how to get it to pair again either.
Is there anyway to get around having to hit the button or tile twice to activate garage door