Fibaro Dimmer No Load with Hue Bulb (UK Bathroom)

I am trying to get confirmation here. So for my bathroom I have a Hue bulb. I want to fit a momentary pull switch to a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and not have any load on it. the Bathroom will be set to always powered.

However I believe the FD2 will not work as it needs to see a load for calibration.

The other option is just to use a relay option maybe but I would like to be able to configure Hold or double click options for scenes.

Any confirmation? @RobinWinbourne as I believe you are quite knowledged on these.

Thanks All

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I’m new to this but have recently installed the FD2 on a set of downlights.

I don’t understrand why you need the FD2 with a hue bulb - I think the whole point of the FD2 is that it makes dumb bulds smart - I had 8 downlights on mine.

However, regarding load, the FD2 needs at least 250w I think, so as my downlights are LED I needed to add the Fibaro Bypass to the lighting circuit to make the load acceptable… Once added the FD2 calibrated and worked perfectly.

It’s purely for my bathroom.

I want to keep the pull switch as it’s intuitive. But need it to be dumb. Not connected. I have heard you can use the bypass as a loop to live and it thinks there is load. So that might work. But not sure.

So, you want to turn the FD2 into a button controller then. That’s a damn expensive use of a FD2. You would then have to “mate” the FD2 to the Hue bulb to control it. That wouldn’t be automatic. Personally, I would just use the FD2 or the Hue bulb. Not both. The FD2 can be wired to an external switch. I don’t see why that could be a pull-style switch.

I need the colour control on the HUE bulb. but I also want to retain control for non Smart users on the light switch pull. I could remove the bull and put a switch on the wall but thats £17. the FD2 is only £40 and maybe £45 with the bypass if needed. totally worth it if it will act as a switch. the other option is a relay only. so an Aeotec Nano or similar but I like the idea of scene control too. useful when you dont want to pull a phone out or shout to alexa!

What are you talking about when you say “light switch pull”? Switches are usually pushed or flipped or toggled. Not pulled. Is this a pull-chain on the socket itself?

In the UK in bathrooms you often have one of two setups. Light switch out side the room. Or a ceiling pull switch in the room.

I have the latter.

So, you have a separate pull chain, not attached to the fixture? I had no idea such a thing existed!! Like this:

image

You could attach the fibaro to device like this I guess, but you would also have to bypass the load for the bulb. What would be a lot easier is to bypass the pullchain all together. Then in the pullchain, use a contact sensor wired to the hot and load of the pullchain’s switch to detect if the pullchain is pulled. You won’t care whether it’s open or closed, just if it changes. If it does, you’d want to toggle the hue bulb. You won’t want the pullchain wire to anything but the contact sensor.

Yes like it’s. You can get momentary pull cords so that’s easy.

Yes contact is one idea. The point in the FD2 is potential scene control. Or dimming similar to a switch can do.

I’m sure you can do that with a FB2, Fibaro bypass (if load is light) and any dimmable bulb (doesnt need to be hue).

The FB2 can work with a toggle switch or momentary switch - it doesnt matter. It can also do the dimming. You can even configure it to dim using the toggle switch (I havent needed this).

But I want the hue still as I use the colour settings quite a bit. I just want a switch that guests can use with no issues. They often turn it off at the switch as they have no easy control

1 Like

You could just use one of the battery powered wireless switches then?

The U.K. developed safety standards based on a time when a wet hand touching a switch was likely to result in a shock to the person. Consequently, the rooms with sinks or showers (called “bathrooms“ in the US, “WC” in England if there’s no shower) typically have a light with a pull chain. This is designed to keep the wet hand away from the electrics. These are generally called “corded lights,“ and come in many different styles.


The other alternative, as @Behold81 mentions, is a switch outside that room all together, where it is assumed that the person‘s hands will be dry.

It’s old code, but then some of these are very old buildings, and the code remains in place for switches which are close to the water sources. :wink:

Please note that this thread is in the UK section of the forum, so it is assumed that most people posting responses here are somewhat familiar with UK wiring and fittings. There are significant differences between that and the US even when the device itself, such as a Fibaro module, is quite similar. :sunglasses:

Also, under U.K. safety codes the primary switch must be usable even if the home automation system fails or is off-line. So you have to keep take that into account as well, which makes things much trickier.

How would you do dimming? It’s not momentary so you can’t detect it like that.

Yes, I’m aware of what a corded light is JD. I’m not an idiot. I had just never heard of the pull-chain being separate from the fixture. Because, I think you can agree, that if the pullchain were part of the fixture, then wiring in anything to function the way he described would be next to impossible unless you totally disassembled the fixture.

Me? I don’t have to take anything into account. I wasn’t the one asking this question.

And safety codes only apply to commercial spaces or when you are selling your home. it’s not like the building inspector is just going to show up at your house and say that you have to change a light because you can’t control it when smartthings is down.

As was mentioned, it’s the standard method for U.K. bathrooms.

The wiring is just like a regular wall switch, except that it is typically hanging down from the ceiling.

The corded fittings are typically on the wall rather than the ceiling, just a different style.

Again, this is the UK section of the forum, and things are done quite differently than in the US. It is not true that inspections take place only at the time of sale.

There are some differences in different jurisdictions, but typically insurance companies (or leases) will require electrical inspections by a licensed electrician every 10 years for an owner occupied home, Every five years for a rental, and every three years for a caravan.

There is a specific form which is issued, the EICR (electrical installation condition report).

In addition, under current law it is a criminal offense not to notify the local building council when making electrical alterations in a bathroom. And that can void homeowners insurance as well.

There is variation in this, but this is the UK section of the forum, and DIY is just a different kind of project in the UK than in the US.

I don’t want to hijack the thread, and certainly we want to encourage participation, but as a courtesy to other community members when posting in the UK section of the forum there should be at least some attempt to suggest solutions which would be legal and practical in that region.

Submitted with respect.

And I would assume that it would be up to the person who asked for the advice to determine if the solution would work in their jurisdiction. Or unless your suggestion has the JDRoberts seal of approval is anyone allowed to post. Respectfully? Nothing respectful about it. Bye.

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