You could install the fibaro in the stud wall void. but it should be put into a box of some kind. It might fit in a Choc box.
With sheathed cable between them.
The main proper constraint is that the connections on it need to be enclosed, and you can’t have unprotected insulated conductors between them. Ie sheathed etc.
To roughly some. Unless its a multi dwelling unit with a compartmented escape route the other side. fire propagation reg’s through stud wall don’t apply.
Putting it in a box also resolves any other issues. Ie fire risk due to exposed connections that could be bridged. etc
It can go in a plastic box. which is better due to z-wave signal.
You could also cut the noggin out deeper that the box is fitted to. to allow a deeper box.
Or if it is just a really small bit of timber knock it out the way and fit a dry line box.
If the timber runs vertically, that it is fitted to. best not to cut it without someone looking at it.
generally, horizontal pieces are not that important once all the plasterboards are fixed to the wall. Unless its on a plasterboard joint, which is unlikely at switch height.
I wouldn’t put uninsulated wires between them no, I’ll be using some extra twin and earth, and sheathing on the earth.
This is my house, it’s just the way the wall is, this room is backed onto the hall and it’s a hollow plasterboard wall.
The timer runs horizontally, but that’s what the back box is fixed to and it’s a flush wall switch.
So basically it has to be enclosed inside a box of some sorts, either the original back box, or another box. Why though if the cables to/from it are all proper size, insulated etc?
They won’t be were they terminate into the fibaro unit, you’ll have to strip the sheath back.
And the terminals are exposed.
Any box will do. That’s not flammable. It should just be enclosed.
Drilling the timber out with a spade bit so you can fit a deeper box. Is probably the better way to go about it. Better for maintenance etc. going forward. The timber will most likely just be a noggin with very little structural benefit.
Got this reply from vesternet support about putting it in a stud wall, no box…
“You don’t have to install the Dimmer module in the back box. You can install it in the stud partition. so long as you do this safely and make sure the wires are secure and can’t be touched easily then it will be fine”
However this from Fibaro support…
“Fibaro Dimmer 2 should be installed in wall switch boxes of dimensions allowing for installation, conforming to provisions of applicable regulations.
Check the national regulations for this type of installation.”
@JDRoberts, @John_Crighton: gentlemen, I managed to solve the problem and you can now react to double, triple taps, S1 and S2 taps of Fibaro. Check it out here: Fibaro Dimmer Double Click Action
Not sure if this is the right place but here goes.
I have just installed one of these but because of the wiring for my kitchen unit lights, I have had to wire it up so that when the light switch for the unit lights is turned on, it supplies the power which then powers up the Fibaro dimmer.
Not ideal but it seems to work OK.
What i want it to do is when the power is provided to the dimmer that it goes into an ON state and turns the lights on and leaves them on.
At present it turns the lights on and they flashe while it associates again and then turn the lights off.
Hope this all makes sense.
Further to my previous post about adding capability to handle scene changes in Fibaro Dimmers, I have now also added all configuration parameters of both dimmers to preferences of each device handler. So no need to fiddle with those in the code anymore. If you use my device handlers you will be able to set all parameters you need directly in the SmartThings app. I included all configurable parameters that were mentioned in the manuals.
Here is the link to the repository: https://github.com/hajar97/FibaroDimmers
Hello, I tried using your Dimmer 1 device handler, but on changing parameters and tapping Done, it always asks me to fill in all the required fields, even though I have filled them all in.
Am I missing something?
Hi Chris, are you doing it through iOS or Android app? As you can see in the thread above (Fibaro Dimmer Double Click Action) it seems preferences are not working correctly on Android. I’ll raise it with SmartThings directly.
I am indeed using the Android app. Sorry, skipped straight to the end of this thread…
Submitted support request to SmartThings, but got the following bounce back:
"I have spoken with our escalations team about this, and they have advised me that there is no known Android issue with custom handlers acting in this way.
To help resolve the issue, they have advised to reach out to the community as our software team, alongside many other code slingers, will be able to help find out what’s throwing up these errors."
So community developers with Android devices, if you could have a look at the code for preferences for device handlers, which works perfectly on iOS and could help shed some light why it does not work on Android and no matter how parameters are set still complains about required parameters being missing, I would be grateful to hear your comments and make respective fixes accordingly.
FYI: after changing parameters once from my iPad, I am then able to change it from my android device also
Can someone help? I have installed the custom code at the top to get my dimmer working. Everything is working fine except the dimmer function.
The dimmer works for every level except 99%. If you set the dimmer to 99% the bulb will switch off after about 1 second and the whole dimmer will not work again until it is re-calibrated.
Nice DTH many thanks
As a work around for the Android preferences not updating if you set them up first in the IDE they seem to work fine thereafter from the Android app. FWIW the Preferences in the IDE are all blank when you first go there but once they are all filled in and saved everything seems to work OK.
It might be hitting max wattage? In this case it would shut the lights off after 1s. To get around this, either increase the max wattage parameter or reduce the max brightness parameter.
Do you know the parameters for these?
I thought the same but it seems odd that it is only happening at 99%. Not 98% or 97% just 99%.
Thanks for the help tho.
2 is max brightness (default 99) and 39 is power limit (default 250).
My preference would be to take the max brightness down.
It might just be tipping the balance at top brightness, for example if you have 5x50w bulbs.
I just installed one Fibaro Dimmer 2 (212) in my kitchen light. At first it did not work well. I had to use the device type posted by Rajiv and it works great now. I also see that there is a device type posted by Hajar what is the difference between the two?
And has anyone managed to install the Fibaro Dimmer 2 in a 3 way switch situation? I have a light bulb that is controlled by 2 switches at 2 different location. Is there a wiring diagram anywhere I can follow? All my light switches are 2 wire (No neutral wire)
Also thank you to Rajiv and Hajar and those who posted the code online for everyone to use. Thank you so much.
I have a few 2 switch situations with Fibaro Dimmer 2s installed, they work very well.
Rajiv made the first device handler that worked well with the Dimmer 2, Hajar has created something more customisable. I’d suggest using his.
Hajar’s can also allow you to use S2 as a smart switch. As an example, in my lounge I have the D2 rigged up to the main light through the light switch. I have a double momentary light switch and the second switch is wired to S2. In the corner of the room I have a lamp (permanent live) with a smart bulb (Z-Wave Aeotec) in it. Switching S2 toggles the bulb on/off, so it looks like I have a main switch wired up to the lamp.
Here’s a great description of how to wire in a 2 switch scenario (very logical) - it will differ if you’re using toggle or momentary switches (momentary are my choice).