Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

Thanks for the code! It helped me to set the dimmer to function to work as an on\off switch.

Is the configure button supposed to work(do anything)?


The configure gets called automatically the first time. You can create 2 configure buttons. One as an on/off switch, one as dimmer. This way u can use one device and configure 2 switches as required.

Let me know if you have trouble coding. I can modify the code accordingly.

Stupid questions probably, but if anyone knows:
-Can you still put your lights on and dim them using the switch even if your zwave network goes down?
-Will the custom code require internet connection or will it work “locally” on v2 hub?
-Can you group several dimmers into lighting groups that follow a set schedule (3 lights on at sunset and off at sunset for example)?
-Does using the physical switch in anyway mess with the state of the dimmer as seen by the ST hub? ie. if I turn the lights on with physical switch, will the ST hub see the state change?
-How reliably this works vs say Philips Hue lights… my scenario being that I just want to turn several lights on/off based on schedule?
-Will Smartthings and Fibaro dimmer talk to each other using local processing? Ie. if my system loses internet and thus connection to ST cloud, will my automations keep working or not?

If the hub is unavailable

The Fibaro, like all of the micro relays, will control current directly if it is directly attached to it. So it can work when the Internet is down, or when the hub is gone altogether, as a regular physical switch. Just like a non-network switch. But only for the circuit it is directly attached to. So as long as you have attached a physical button to that circuit, you can still toggle the lights on and off even if the hub is missing altogether. Dimming depends on the exact physical device it’s been attached.

If you use any of the other types of control features available through SmartThings, such as saying when I turn on the switch in the entry, I want those lights to come on and I want the kitchen lights to also come on (which are actually on a different circuit and being told to follow the switch by the smart things hub) and the hub is not available, then the entry lights would still come on, but the kitchen lights would not until you went over and hit their physical switch. Anything based on schedules would not operate if the hub was not available.

If the hub is available, but the internet is not

If a device type is approved for “local processing” (not local connection which is a different thing) then, if the hub is available but the smartthings cloud is not, the automations that you set up that were approved for local processing will still run. So in this example, if you turned on the entryway switch, the lights in the kitchen and the entryway both come on even if the Internet was not available. Schedules set up through the smartlights smartapp would also continue to run.

@aaron @slagle can you please confirm that the micro relays that are listed on the official "works with "SmartThings list for the UK will run locally with smart lights automations?

custom code never runs when the Internet is not available. That includes custom device types.

That said, no custom code or custom device type has the option to run locally at the present time. In fact, the only thing which does run locally are approved device types with the smart lighting automation.

The reason is that the only code that can run locally when the Internet is not available are those which are already loaded into the firmware for the hub and present for all customers. As soon as a single change is made, that code is no longer pushed out to all customers, and therefore it is not available in the firmware.

So only the Fibaro models that are on the official compatibility list are even eligible for local processing. the new fibaro is not on that list, and therefore it cannot run locally at the present time.

Getting a device approved to run when the Internet is down

So the process timeline typically looks like this: manufacturer introduces new device. Community members develop custom code for a device type for that new device, and share it with others through the forum.

When it seems fully ready for general use, the author submits it to SmartThings for official publication. Once it is officially published, it automatically appears in the SmartThings mobile app.

It then becomes eligible for review as a candidate for local processing.

Eventually, it may be selected for local processing, or for technical reasons, it may not.

(There is also a completely separate process through the SmartThings official testing labs, where the manufacturers submit their devices to SmartThings for certification, and the staff do all the device type development and testing. The community only hears about those when there is an official announcement that a new device type has been approved. Those are immediately available in the mobile app, but again may not necessarily be available for local processing.

Announcements of new compatible products are made on the official SmartThings blog, in the announcements section of this form, and of course are added to the compatibility list. )

1 Like

Hi @rmbhatia

This looks really good.

I’m new to this; will this make the device type appear in my mobile app and let me set the parameters?

Basically, I have a set of Dimmer 2 modules I’m going to install later this week, hopefully, and some will be dimmers with 3-way momentary switches, so will just be on/off, and some will be 2-way. Where in the code would I need to change so that it prompts me for options on first adding to ST?

Many thanks in advance!


1 Like

This might be of interest. It has the step-by-step instructions for publishing any custom device type to your account. (This is a clickable link.)

I was initially using one of the standard device types for my Dimmer 2, and that was working fine (just no energy consumption meter). If I left the module listed as the standard type, would that be ok without an internet connection? (type was “Z-Wave Device Multichannel”)

If the micro is pairing as a generic ZW switch, it should run locally. I haven’t actually connected one in the UK bc I’m afraid of killing myself (and basically bringing down the London power grid). With my luck, there’s not chance I end up like the flash

1 Like

Stupid question, how do I change it from the universal dimmer to this

You probably already know this, but for those just starting to think about this device in their projects, there are two kinds of physical controls that can be used for the front plates.

Binary switches, a toggle that goes on or off, will work to physically turn the light on (there’s a parameter, I don’t remember whether it goes on to hundred percent or goes onto the last setting but one of those).

A momentary switch is like a traditional push button. You push it in and you can hold it. It always reverts to the same state when you’re done. If the light was off, pushing it will turn on. If the light was on, pushing it will turn it off. But there’s an option where if you push the button and hold it in the brightness will increase. Again set with parameters. So using a momentary faceplate lets you change the brightness at the physical switch.

The important part when first planning what switches to buy, is not to combine binary switches and momentary switches on the same circuit or the relay will get very confused. So if setting up two ways (two switches control the same light), match the physical switch type so that they will work with the parameters that were set in the one relay. Switches don’t have to be identical models, but they have to either all be momentary, or all be binary in order to work with the one relay.

That may be obvious to everyone, but I do occasionally see people try to use two different styles to match decor, So I just wanted to mention it.

If different relays are being used on different circuits, then of course it’s fine to have one style of switch on one of the circuits and the other style of switch on the other circuit as the parameters for the two relays can be set independently.

1 Like

Hi Giles,

Smartthings does not give you the ability to change the parameters manually. You will need to do it through code. The default behaviour of the dimmer 2 module is that if you are not using momentary switches, and standard on/off switch, if you turn the button down, the brightness will gradually increase till you flip the switch in the opposite direction to stop at the required level of brightness, and vice versa. The code that I have posted will let you just use the switch like a normal switch. Push down for turning it on, and push it up for turning it off.

If you want to use the same device type for two switches, one as default and one as modified type such as on/off, you will need to create two buttons for configuration. One button will set to call a function for default configuration, and another button to call a function to modify the default configuration and set it to the mode you desired (such as on/off).

Modify the code as follows:
standardTile(“configureAfterSecure”, “device.configure”, inactiveLabel: false, decoration: “flat”, width: 2, height: 2) {
state “default”, label:’’, action:“configureAfterSecure”, icon:“st.secondary.configure”

standardTile(“configure1”, “device.configure”, inactiveLabel: false, decoration: “flat”, width: 2, height: 2) {
state “default”, label:’’, action:"configure1, icon:“st.secondary.configure”
standardTile(“configure2”, “device.configure”, inactiveLabel: false, decoration: “flat”, width: 2, height: 2) {
state “default”, label:’’, action:"configure2, icon:“st.secondary.configure”
details([“switch”,“power”,“energy”,“configure1”,“configure2”, “refresh”,“reset”])

def configureAfterSecure() {
def configure1() {
//define configuration 1 parameters
def configure2() {
//define configuration 2 parameters

def updated() {
log.debug "updated()"
response([“delay 2000”] + configureAfterSecure() + refresh())
Assuming configure1 is your default configuration
def updated() {
log.debug "updated()"
response([“delay 2000”] + configure1() + refresh())

Now when you press configure 2, it should take the behaviour of the second configuration you have defined.

Alternatively, you can just copy paste the entire code and create a new device type for the second configuration and just modify the condifureAfterSecure code to your desired parameters and just change the device type of the new switch to the new device type you’ve just created

Hope this helps.


Hello! I’m new into this thread, and having a pain in the ass time with the Smartthings hub.

Bought the Aeon Labs micro dimmer (the one that is confirmed compatible with the hub), and after a few hours yesterday of trying to wire it in, it’s clear it will only work with a three wire system, and not a two wire one like I have.

So now I’m going to flip to the Fibaro dimmer instead (which isn’t listed as compatible). Can anyone let me know if I’m better off buying the 212 or the 211 dimmer?

It’s for use in a UK home.

Many thanks for any direction. I can’t bare to waste another day trying to wire in another dimmer than won’t work.

Hi Marty,

If you are interested in a straight swap I’ve purchased the 212 (the 211 doesn’t support 2 wire setups either) I have the luxury (if you can call it that) of getting my next house rewired so will be opting for a 3-wire lighting configuration and going with the Aeon Labs micro dimmer. I wanted to test something out but do not have backboxes deep enough to retro fit either currently so it would be unsafe to use mine, I’ve not even paired it with SmartThings yet. Can include some handy pre-wired twin and earth too if you’d like :wink:


Hi Matt,

I bought mine on Amazon Prime, so had the beauty of sending it back to them for free this morning and got an immediate gift card refund, so the unit’s already gone I’m afraid.

I too have the issue of not deep enough back boxes, but am going to drill out deeper holes next weekend.

As for the 212 and 211, I thought looking at YouTube the 211 did support 2 wires?! Damn, that narrows my choice down a lot then.

I’m not great at coding, so hoping the above code is not too difficult to copy and paste and implement…

I’ll reiterate that the 212 does get picked up by ST off the bat, and gets recognised as a generic dimmer. No coding is really necessary unless you’re set on getting power consumption figures or changing the default config via ST. If you’re using a momentary switch you will have no problem at all (regular switch needs a bit of config change depending on how you want it to operate).

5 minutes ago I wired up a 212, hit the button 3 times and told ST to find new devices. It picked up first time instantly, and is now a thing in my inventory.

I bored out my backboxes (or had them done for me) from 25 to 35mm a while ago. Not an easy job, and very messy.

1 Like

Ah shame, do double check what I’ve said but I believe the 211 is on the supported list and the reason I decided against it was because it didn’t support a 2-wire setup. It’s entirely possible I’m wrong, it has happened on more than one occasion.

I think I’ll stick with the 212’s then. Fortunately they’re much more expensive than the Aeon Labs ones, and a little bit more than the 211’s. This is turning into a big job just so I can turn my lights on automatically whilst I’m out!

I currently have regular switches, but they’re old and need changing. Do you recommend changing to momentary switches then?

All I’m looking for the switches to do mainly, is turn on automatically when I trip the Fibaro motion sensors, and then turn off after 2 minutes of no movement.

Also, when I’m out and about, I want lights to turn on automatically so that it looks like someone is home, and I don’t get burgled. Hopefully Smartthings will get easier to do this all over the coming months. I hear there’s a big upgrade coming in November…

I changed to momentary switches with my old X10 setup, and have never looked back. They’re totally intuitive and very easy to use for anyone (if they’re on it turns them off, if off it turns them on).

I posted on [momentary switches][1] [1]: VFAQ: Lighting Control Options for UK SmartThings this morning, the Schneider range are great if you’re looking for something like that.

I got my 212s from a company called ‘Datawize’, who seem very well priced. I bought 10 at once and negotiated a bit more money off.


1 Like

Cool, thanks for the tip on Datawise. I’ve bought the first one on Amazon for £46 delivered to test it out and get it working first, then will be back to Datawise as that’ll save me about £50 on ordering the rest at their prices.

Oddly, Datawize probably fulfilled your Amazon order. They are always cheaper direct, by at least 10-12%.