FAQ: Double light switch in a single gang box--options? (See post 37 for 2020 options)

Thanks for the responce everybody

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Hello all. Looking for an ST compatible dual button light switch to replace a dual toggle. Basically it is what is in the uploaded photo. I saw one device, but it no longer appears to be available anymore (leviton). Any alternatives or ideas would be great.

One thing to note is that I will eventually be introducing a fan into the mix here.

Did you read any of the posts above in this topic?

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we really need a dual fan, light single switdch… there would be a good market for this… many have it.

I agree, plus folks like me who are still looking for a double light switch in a single gang box need something, too! I have six of these switches in my house so I would love to be able to convert them to a tap that would automate lights/fans/other stuff.


It looks like there is the Mojocraft Wireless Smart Wall Switch 2 Gang switch. Looks like it’s possibly the right thing for this application. I’ve not checked to see if it can work with Smart Things. Did anyone else try it?

This One?

It looks to be WiFi which means no direct integration. If they have an open API someone could integrate it.

Change the box out to a larger gang box… Home Depot has single, dual, triple, and quad retrofit boxes, just make sure there isn’t another stud limiting you, if so you could go up. image

Don’t go down, minimum height code/rules for light switches… don’t know why, floods???

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That switch uses the smartlife app. There are a couple of different ways to integrate with it. There is an IFTTT channel, so you can just try that, although recently it has stopped working for anything except basic on/off. But it does still seem to be working for that.

There are also a couple of community – created integrations. Just search for SmartLife. ( that’s a Chinese company, it has nothing to do with Samsung or SmartThings, just a somewhat similar name).

My only concern is that If This is like other similar switches, it won’t have any safety certifications, and speaking just for myself, I don’t wire anything into the mains, even a light switch, if it doesn’t have safety certifications. The convenience of home automation isn’t worth burning down the house. But that’s just me. :wink:


Yes, great point. It has the FCC and CE marks on the back, but CE appears to be “self certification”. By the way, I found the part itself on AliExpress from someone named “Anni and Saarah Electronics Company Ltd”

Thanks for the pointers on ST integration. Not sure if I’ll try this or not. I’d love to see a switch from a reputable source, as I probably can’t change my box out. I haven’t checked, but I’m nearly certain it’s boxed in by studs.

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Old post I know but it popped up.

I don’t think this is true unless your boxes are already very low (and you’d end up below ADA requirements). Light switches can be mounted lower if wanted.

It if were restricted to due to possible floods then my outlets need to be raised :sunglasses:.

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If possible, outlets should be installed no less than 15” (measured from the lowest outlet to the finished floor) above the finished floor and the panel box, switches and the thermostat should be installed no less than 48” above the finished floor (measured from the highest breaker inside the panel).

section 4.2 page 15

I know people rehabbing houses that have been written up for this in inspections…

In the 4.12 light switches section, says:

All new wall switches shall be located for convenience and accessible use.

People in wheelchairs, those who are of smaller stature, or in some cases for the convenience of children, often have lights switches installed lower than 48”. Also the same section you quoted just says they’re recommendations, not requirements. You shouldn’t be written up for it, especially if there’s an ADA reason to lower them.

The receptacles are supposed to be at least 15 inches up for safety for people who have difficulty bending down that far.

As far as the 48” reference, Whoever wrote that Texas document screwed up and left out a word. The ADA and ANSI requirements are a maximum of 48 inches high. That’s a wheelchair reach issue. You definitely shouldn’t be written up for having it lower than 48 inches, but you might be written up for having it higher in new construction.

American National Standard A117.1-1998.
308 Reach Ranges
308.1 General. Reach ranges shall comply with Section 308.
308.2 Forward Reach. 308.2.1 Unobstructed. Where a forward reach is unobstructed, the high forward reach shall be 48 inches (1220 mm) maximum and the low forward reach shall be 15 inches (380 mm) minimum above the floor or ground.

FHA has adopted the same design standard:

This was a change a couple of years ago from earlier standards.


Dug a little deeper. The switch is all based on an ESP8266, so it’ll be wifi only. Looks hackable, so maybe I can find a route other than IFTTT. Maybe I’ll try it. Just wish GE or Leviton or someone would produce something.

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Yeah, i’ve been really disappointed that Leviton didn’t come out with a Z wave plus version of the VRCS2. :disappointed_relieved:

The dual micro relays mentioned upthread will work For most people, though, so that’s always an option.

Indeed, and could add a soft switch. However, I just searched and according to the Amazon Q&A, the vision relays don’t have any certifications either. It looks like the Fibaro is though.

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So I have one of these PITA dual switches in a single gang in the bathroom, Bought the Mojocraft switch to try and it works really well. Using Ifttt integrating it with ST was quick and easy and it controls my fan and light with no issues.

Installation is straight forward but the snap in ring is a pain. The screw heads for the wire connections stick out too much for the switch to slide in easily. It does go in with some force or a dremel trim on that edge works. Second issue is the switch doesn’t snap tightly into the ring and if the wires are pushing back it just pops out.

Both issues for me were minor as I’m no rid of that dreaded switch I hated :slight_smile: and now the bath fan is fully automated lights already were with bulbs. Switch uses relays you can hear click when toggled.

Dual switch Single box.

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Hey guys,

Been a while since this post was updated. It seems lutron came out with a compatible double switch. https://www.smartthings.com/products/lutron-casta-wireless-600w-in-wall-pro-switch

You just need to buy the lutron hub which is an extra $100 here in Canada. I would prefer a Leviton option where no hub is required.

Anyone else have some new updated options?

That’s not a double switch. That’s one button for on and one button for off. That’s why the two lightbulb icons are different. But it only controls a single circuit branch. ( I have this model in my own home.)

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Lol wow. Well thats unfortunate.