Dumb door and window sensors (UK)

Delay is only 1 second (timed with a stopwatch) in the smartthings app

This does require wifi and an internet connection if you use cloud to cloud. Local requires wifi but not internet

The local integration requires smartthings classic for setup, but the sensors show up in the new app after setup. This local version is not receiving updates but it still works. It sends signals directly to your hub and will work even in an internet outage.

Your products are correct, but you need to buy 3 breakout boards if you have 3 nodemcus. If you only need 6 zones, get only a nodemcu. Each nodemcu adds 6 zones. This will also not work with a siren until you buy a relay. You must also have a 5-10v power supply or a usb power supply

This will not run on adurino. If you want adurino, you must write custom code. Konnected sells this for $30 extra officially (konnected diy kit), and we are trying to replicate this for cheaper

I have no Zigbee or z wave sensors (only actuators), so I have no idea, the delay is 1 second so you can compare that to your sensors.

Note that the software side of this (connection, responsiveness, etc) will be the exact same on both the konnected conversion kit for $100 and the official konnected diy kit for $50

Thanks so much for that, I think I’ll have a crack. =)

Your welcome

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@djh_wolf URGENT

I accidentally gave the wrong breakout board! Hopefully you can cancel it for a full refund.

Buy this one instead

So sorry. I hope you can forgive me.

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Just about to order some bits, but seem to be struggling with the actual door contact sensors.

Konnected site advises using “normally open”, but the majority of the magnetic sensors I can find are “normally closed”.

Would appreciate if anyone can point me in the right direction. Ta!

@djh_wolf After setting up zones, check if your sensors are saying the oppsite value. If so, then click manage zones, tap on the zones that are problematic, and flip the inverse switch. Sync zones to the device, and in a minute, it should work. The local integration also has a normally closed option to.


Normally closed contacts are insecure. If somebody cut the cable. It would say the door is closed. However, if somebody cut a normally open contacts cable, it would sound the alarm.

I have normally open contacts and it works without toggling inverse. Check if you have problems before toggling inverse. It may just work like me.

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Reet!

Cheers all. I’m awaiting the arrival of a few boards, contact sensors and I’m picking up some Honeywell PIRs.

Couldnt help but notice that the software also allows connection of either a single moisture sensor or multiple temp sensors. Given that my experience with the fibaros (ubs/implant) for the purposes of temp monitoring has been less than satisfactory… Has anyone used this hardware (i. E. This thread) for accurate temp monitoring? And if so, would someone mind giving an opinion /insight? Hoping the temp probes would show as seperate child devices and be accessible to webcore etc. Also, is the reporting period and accuracy definable? Cheers!

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First of all, the DHT standard (used by Konnected for wired temp and humidity) only has sensors with both temperature and humidity. It has two power wires and a data wire (three wires total). If you want to use leftover zones from each Konnected, you can buy these

Or something similar (I can confirm any devices or give you recommendations for single-pieces. Make sure it supports 3.3v (mine does). You wire up positive to 3.3v on NodeMCU, negative to GND, and data to any pin for a zone. Then you can configure the Konnected zone to DHT temp and humidity. Humidity and temperature are two attributes of one device, so it should work in both Smartthings connect routines and webcore. I don’t have any Konnected temp and humidity sensors (soon going to get one) but I have a couple of battery temp and humidity sensors, and webcore and Smartthings can use both the temp and humidity in routines.

Note that you need to have leftover zones to do this. For me, I have all sensors terminating in one area because of my security system, but I imaging you placing a NodeMCU inside every room and wiring only 2-3 windows to each NodeMCU before it gets to tedious to do the wiring and you just get another NodeMCU, leading to extra zones that can be used for temp and humidity. Some other ideas are a siren (hide it under some furniture and run a cable to the NodeMCU or mount it and run a cable), a buzzer (much quieter than a siren, similar to a notification) with ifttt to get whole-home notifications. You can also power leds (switch) or get glass-break sensors. Finally, you can add buttons to trigger actions in your smart home (use door sensor option). The possibilities are endless.

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Hi, thanks again.

Apologies for the dumb questions, still learning.

This says I can connect a ds18b20 (or a temp/humidity).

But it says to wire to the 5v.

  • Red to 5V
  • Black to G pin
  • Blue (or other color) to Zone
  • Set the zone to Temperature Probe. When you save it will show up with a unique identifier. You can go into the settings of that sensors and rename it.
  • You can have multiple temperature probes in the same zone.

…but my nodemcu doesn’t seem to have a 5v?

Also, could you please guide me on how to power a led? Familiar with DC relays (a little, and I have a few), but I can’t get my head around which pins to use.

looking at the module on the soldering side (not pins), this is how I currently have my single door sensor and 12V PIR connected and working

left:
a0
g
vv
s3
s2
s1
sc
s0
sk
g
3v
en
rst
g - dc negative
vin - dc positive

right:
d0
d1 - zone 1 (reed 'positive')
d2 - zone 2 (motion sensor NC)
d3
d4
3v
g
d5
d6
d7
d8
rx
tx
g - moton sensor ground + reed 'ground'
3v

Konnected limits you to D1, D2, D5, D6, D7, and RX for input (sensors) and D1, D2, D5, D6, D7, RX, and D8 for output (all input pins are output pins, D8 is only output). When connecting sensors, put your first sensor in RX, because if you find that that is the only leftover pin and you want to put an actuator (led), it will turn on momentarily during boot up. It is very easy to just remember to always wire your first contact sensor to RX and avoid the headache of accidentally wiring an actuator to RX. You will wire up the led to any output pin other than RX (recommend D8 because you can’t use contact sensors there), add a 220 ohm resistor in the circuit, and connect the positive terminal to 3.3v on the NodeMCU. If you have a brighter led with its own power supply, you will buy a relay and add It to the circuit in series as you would do for a manual on off switch. Do not use these cheap relays for 110v! For that, just get a shelly or sonoff

Summary:
Buy these:


Wire the less up with the resistor so that positive is 3.3v and negative is D1, D2, D5, D6, D7, or D8 (no RX!). Led should be in series with the resistor or it will burn.

Set Konnected zone to switch. In Smartthings, you will get a switch that can be turned on and off.

If you want to use a high-power led, then

High-Power LED
  • Add relay to konnected using siren wiring diagram and set zone to switch.

  • Instead of having the two wires coming from the siren, cut one of your power supplies low-voltage cable (after the adapter) and attach both ends to the relay. Should look like this

      |         |
      |         |
      |         --------|
      |
      |         --------|
      |         |
      |         |
      |         |
    

The NodeMCU does not have 5v. They bought a special breakout board with 5 volts, because they recommend 5v dht sensors. However, if you buy 3.3v dht sensors, then instead of using the 5v pin use the 3.3v pin. For example, these sensors support 3.3 to 5v, so they will work off of the 3.3v pin on your NodeMCU.

Or these in bulk:

Relays are used for sirens and other high-power devices. Konnected uses high-level relays which toggle when given 3.3v via GPIO. This is the same concept for an led, because an led (using a resistor) will light up when given 3.3v via a gpio

Reporting period seems to be 1 minute at the least, but it might be more like 1 second or something (probably leave it at one minute :wink: for good). It is definable and the example they have given is to type 3 minutes in a text box while setting up a zone. I have no idea wether it will recognize 30 seconds or .5 minutes. In summary, this is configuarble.

The accuracy of the temp depends on the sensor you buy. It seems that they have a 0.3 C accuracy with a 2 C offset, but the offset can be fixed with a virtual temp sensor. The accuracy will mean it might be + or - 1 F, but more expensive sensors will have accuracies closer to .1 F. Its is a viable solution. In summary, the accuracy is not configurable and there is no temp offset in the konnected app. You will have to use webCore with a virtual temp sensor for this. I will be happy to share with you my webCore temperature calibration script if your having trouble making one. By the way, to get decimal value, don’t use the webCore command set level. Use the “custom” command setTemperature. However, this must get a direct input from a decimal variable or it will not work. So do the calibration and save it to the decimal variable, then set the virtual temp sensor to that variable.

Once again, thanks for the replies. Apologies for thr delays, new baby in the house and a lack of sleep/time to blame.

Apologies in advance if I’ve missed or misunderstood something that’s already been said. So let me backtrack a little for my understanding.

  1. The DS18B20.
    Apparently this is supported via the 3v line, as per this thread.
    Waterproof Temperature Probe (DS18B20) - SmartThings - Konnected Community
    Hello,

there doesn’t seem to be a wiring guide for the Waterproof Temperature Probe (DS18B20) that’s sold in the Konnected store. Can someone please help me figure out how to wire this up? Ds18b20 - see attachment. Red - 3.3 or 5v - constant power Yellow - Digital - konnected zone of choice Black - Ground - ground Resistor needed when using long wires or multiple sensors. In Smartthings Once wired and configured you will have to wait approx. 3-6mins before the sensor shows up in the things menu with its Id number as its name.

ah now i get it. I moved everything to the New Ap`p…using Konnected cloud…and I guess probe is not an option yet. makes me want to back it all out and go back to the classic… even tho konnected is pushing everyone to the new way.

So perhaps the DS18B20 is supported, but only under the old app? Thing is, I’ve already got a stack of these sensors around the house so this would be ideal if there is actually a way of connecting them. Hmmm…

  1. Relay

This would help a lot. I followed what you said and can power a small LED. If I can substitute the led for a relay, I can free up a stack of smart plugs. Not exactly sure which relay to get… I had a few lying aroud, and attempted to power the coil by just just passing the current through the pins for the coil instead of the led. But I’m assuming theres not enough juice to flip the relay as nothing happens and instead, I need to use one more suited. I’d like to power a 12v device (and elsewhere, some 6s) by adding relays. I have multiple boards.

=)

You would have to use the old integration (it runs in the cloud too, I just found out) with smartthings, but it will work. The minimum polling time is 1 minute in this integration. I recommend getting dot sensors because they will also give humidity and will work with the new integration. The new integration still receives updates and is much simpler.

These leds will be only 2 or 3 lumens, nothing compared to a bright lightbulb. You will need high-level 3.3v relays for the konnected. Here is an example.
https://www.amazon.com/Eagles-Optocoupler-Module,3v-Boards,Raspberry-Application/dp/B07GBS62GX/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=3.3v+high+level+relay&qid=1595088071&sr=8-9

These relays work with 10A at 250vac or 30vdc (similar to sonoff except it can do any voltage, as the relay is not connected to any voltage, like a Shelly. I use these for 12vdc sirens and they work great!

Cheers (again) = )

So if I bought this:

I take it that I could power a 12v by connecting it to this:
image

Then…

Easier for me to explain via pics I think. Also, I’ll grab some DHT22’s on your advice. =)

Yes, but you bought a 5v relay. It has to be a 3.3v high level relay.

Ah, wrong link. I’ll find the 3.3 =)

In simple terms, what will connect where in my pic above please (if you don’t mind). Ta!

Vcc goes to 3.3v, in goes to zone, gnd goes to gnd. Com goes to device wire one, and NO (normally open) goes to device wire 2. NC goes nowhere.

Update.

Decided to grab a handful of dht22s. Connected one just fine (min polling is 1 minute).

Awaiting delivery of relays.

Thanks for all the help!