Some people go that way. I don’t get cheap electrical stuff, the risk of a house fire isn’t worth saving 20 bucks to me. The Leviton switch is also made in China, but it’s UL listed from a manufacturer subject to US tort law, which is my minimum standard. But different people have different priorities.
“Cheap stuff” wasn’t mean low quality, cheap means $55 not $250 :]
This might work:
How much room do you have in that J-box? The monoprice dual-relay that @rando suggested might be a good option if you have room. You could do one of those, and one aeon microswitch.
I suspect this is going to run into the same problem that other dual relay switches have. Smartthings needs a device handler that can recognize multiple controllers in one device. This comes up a lot with things like power strips where you’re supposed to be able to get the energy use for each plug, but smartthings may only see it as one reporter.
People have been trying for over year to get the Enerwave dual relay to work specifically to control a fan and a light, but without success.
Some community members have it working so that a single on command from smartthings turns on both, so the fan and light go on and off together, but it doesn’t sound like that’s what the original poster in this topic was looking for.
The following has discussion of dual relays:
@mattjfrank might know more.
The monoprice dual realy works great with smartthings. You have to use the correct device type and smartapp.
The device type and smartapp I use is for ZWN-RSM2 Enerwave Dual Load relay
Its by @mattjfrank
According to the topic in which that device type is referenced, it controls both of the relays together, not each relay independently. That is, if you have one wired to the fan, and one wired to the light, they will both turn on together, and both turn off together. That fits the use case for some people, but not for everyone.
Or has this changed? Can you control the two devices independently, one from each button?
@JDRoberts the smartapp gives you control over each individually. I am using it in a fan/light right now that was controled by a single switch. It is working great. I am going to get another one to put on the lights and fans on my porch that are set up with the dual switch just like in the op picture.
Awesome! Then dual relays, or at least the monoprice, could be another option for the original poster.
I am using Vision ZL7432US Dual Relay insert and TKBHOME TZ04 for quite some time now. For a long time control of individual relays was from within the device itself but now with a binder app and virtual tile am able to control the relays independently. They can be accessed via other apps and IFTTT etc. Updating status still sucks.
Since this topic is one of the first results for “fan and light switch” here is a modern solution to the original OP’s question.
Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit
The thread was also three years old. There are current FAQs on fan switches which do include the Lutron device. Note that in order to make that device work with SmartThings you will have to also use a harmony home hub, it’s not part of the official SmartThings/Lutron integration since it doesn’t work with the Lutron SmartBridge.
Details in the FAQ ( this is a clickable link)
Weird that never came up in my searches. Thanks for letting me know it is not compatible with the lutron bridge, that seems silly that it wont work with their own hw. I guess Ill cancel that order and wait for a solution to come out. I didnt see anything similar to the Maestro in the other threads.
The maestro fan device is a very old device, it predates the smartbridge and the Lutron Caseta line and works in a somewhat different manner. The maestro line is not intended for House-wide automation, just for adding a remote in a single room. But since there is harmony hub compatibility, you can get integration that way, it’s just pretty clunky.
I’m sure this info is out there but I am struggling to find it. Is there a single switch that can turn the light on and off and control fan speed? Zwave would be preferred.
I see the Hampton Bay controller but I dont like all the extra buttons, trying to find something that matches our paddle switches.
See the FAQ I already linked to. There’s nothing for Zwave In a single switch but there is a zigbee option.
If any of those switches are a three way switch (two switches to control one light) you could just tie the wires together and use one switch to control it the. Just use two zwave switches in that box, that’s what I did.
maybe try micro switches
Hi Guys - I’m in the same boat, i found a few devices on amazon. Worried about safety. What are the thoughts on these devices:
Speaking just for myself, I don’t wire anything to the mains unless it is UL certified or an equivalent certification. For example, the Fibaro micros are UL certified.
The two devices you linked to are both cheap devices made in China. They are not UL listed.
They are using a radio which has the CE Mark, but it’s important to note 2 things:
the CE Mark is a self determination by the manufacturer. It is not checked by a third-party the way the UL Mark or the CSA mark Devices are or the ETL mark are.
in switches like these, the CE Mark only applies to that radio part, which they purchased from a third-party. It doesn’t apply to the switch as a whole. Again, with devices which are wired to the mains, there are a lot of places where you can create a fire hazard besides the radio.
Because I myself am quadriparetic, fire safety is a big deal to me. I will pay extra for well engineered devices that meet third-party safety standards. In the US, your local code may not require that. Which is why there is a lot of cheap stuff available. It’s your choice whether to use it, but if you have a situation similar to mine where you do move fire safety to a higher priority, then just look for something that is UL or ETL listed. It’s not a guarantee, but it’s definitely better than a self certifying Chinese device aimed at consumers who want to pay as little as possible.
There is a lot of Chinese stuff which is very well-made, but it’s almost all gone through third-party certification, because then they will be able to sell it at Home Depot and similar brick-and-mortar retailers. In other words, if they’re going to build it to those standards anyway, it’s usually worth it to the manufacturer to get the certification because they will be able to offer it through more sales channels.
The following is a very good discussion of the difference between buying a product at Home Depot and buying one at Amazon with regard to electrical safety considerations:
( i’m not saying don’t buy from Amazon; I buy a lot of stuff there. I’m just saying know what you are buying and understand that the big box stores have a level of safety certification requirement which Amazon does not.)