So I don’t know if it is the result of the recent firmware upgrade or something else, but I spent the better part of Saturday trying to get the Iris 3405-L version to work, and it simply will not stay paired.
I’ve tried two different keypads, and both exhibit the same behavior so I’m fairly confident the units are not defective. If someone else has successfully paired a new Iris 3405-L keypad in the last few days since the new firmware, I would love to get that confirmation.
The steps I am following are as follows:
Installed the device type and smart app in the first post of this thread.
In the SmartThings app, I select Connect New Device --> Connect Now to put the hub in pairing mode.
I factory reset the Iris keypad by pulling the batteries and leaving them out for 10 seconds. Then, while holding down the tamper switch on the back of the device, I place in one battery and after two seconds release the tamper switch and put the other battery in. At this point, the Iris’s network LED flashes green TWO times every 6 seconds which is different from the documentation which says it should be flashing green 1 time every 3 seconds. After the pairing process continues, the LED starts flashing green twice every one second.
While the SmartThings app continues to look for a new thing, the device actually appears under “Devices” in the Developer IDE so at this point I change it’s device type from “Unknown” to “Centralite Keypad”.
I cancel the Connect Now searching activity within the SmartThings app, and then I can see the device listed under the group I added it to. At this point the network LED is still flashing green twice every 1 second.
I press the Configure button for the device in the SmartThings App. After doing so the keypad’s network LED now begins rapidly flashing green (maybe twice a second). Now as long as I don’t mess with they keypad, that flashing green light will stay on indefinitely.
I install the SmartApp at this point. Waving my hand over the keypad accurately shows the status of SMH and I can toggle ARM/DISARM in the SMH and they keypad reflects it. So I know it is paired and getting data from the hub.
Finally, if I try to enter the pin to change the status of the SMH, (e.g. 1-2-3-4 ON) it will give an error tone, and then the keypad will cycle lights between OFF, Partial and ON indicating (per the docs) “Joining or communication with the hub has been lost”. My case, it seems to be the later because it loses connection with the hub and nothing short of re-pairing the device will re-establish connection with the hub again.
I’m not sure why typing on the keypad would cause the keypad to lose communication. I’ve tried pushing in the tamper switch 5 times (per the docs) but that didn’t seem to do anything. I also tried pushing it just once and that didn’t work either.
I wish I had a solution to your issue because I’ve been having the exact same experience. I’ve tried removing and re-adding the device multiple times and simply can’t seem to get it to work. I get the cycling of lights between OFF, Partial, and ON as well. I first tried setting this device up over a month ago and tried again today, with the same results you described.
Tony- thanks for the info. I had hopes for this thing after seeing ConradSykes post. Maybe there are different keypad firmware versions involved or something. I might give the xfinity keypad a try at some point.
If you have the devicetype already installed in IDE it should automatically associate it to the device when it finds it in pairing mode. What is the ‘Raw Description’ for the device as shown in IDE?
So I’m not sure why you would be having issues when other people weren’t but I added the fingerprint of the IRIS keypad to my version of the device handler. Try this one out and see if it will pair automatically. I make no guarantees, my knowledge of ZigBee devicetypes is basic at best.
When I added mine I found it odd how I got mine to work.
Like you ST treated it as an unknown device/thing and put it in the list.
I selected it and added it in the App. Then went over to the IDE and changed the devicetype to Centralite Keypad.
At first the keypad didn’t seem to work properly. It wasn’t changing the SHM status.
If memory serves I believe I hit the Off button and waited then the Partial button and finally the On button.
Still it wasn’t working. I believe I put in a code like 1111 - On and still nothing.
I did notice the pad started behaving differently after doing this.
So like you I went to the App, selected the device and Clicked the Configure Button still nothing. Then I clicked the Refresh button.
This is the part I am not certain about but I tried either pushing the Off/Partial/On buttons then entering a code like 1111-On.
I may have even rebooted the ST Hub. I believe I went back to the App and clicked Configure again and for some reason it started showing me Temperature and Battery Life in the App.
I figured Eureka and then tried the Keypad again and this time it changed the SHM status.
Not entirely certain why it behaved this way. So far mine has stayed paired and has been working fine.
I did not perform the Factory Reset on mine. I never had to. Not that this should matter.
Seems to me if it is working for you then later loosing connectivity you may have a hardware issue with the Keypad itself. Or weak batteries. I am only guessing.
Thanks to everyone for the help. Sadly, still no luck yet.
I just received the Xfinity version of this keypad, and gave that a shot. Pretty much the same thing. It seems to pair, but if you enter any 4 digits followed by an arming button (Away, Stay or Night) it gives an error beep and all of the arm lights start illuminating and cycling back and forth. At that point, it will reflect the SMH status, but it does not respond to any keypad input whatsoever.
I’ve tried Ben’s new device type with the Iris version of the keypad and get the same results. I tried a lot of variations of jgravert’s pairing process without success as well. Rebooted the hub a few times and removed and re-installed the device types and smart apps as well and none of that made a difference. I might have to pass the torch here as I am running out of ideas.
K so I reproduced your video with my working IRIS keypad. I’m using the 3400-x Keypad manager, and the user lock code manager apps and the Centralite Keypad device handler. Also Smart Alarm and just SHM for mode status only.
The green light on the right corner should not be flashing. I would delete everything and start from scratch. Looks like it didn’t pair fully.
@jparchem have you moved the keypad since you paired it? i.e. were you close to the hub when you paired it, then moved the keypad to where you intend to use it? I had issues successfully pairing mine until I tried pairing while it was already in place next to my door. Now I actually have two that are working fine. Can’t say for sure if that’ll work for you, but you might want to try unpairing and then giving it a shot.
@jparchem, I was setting up my new second unit soon after you started having this problem. I was suddenly anxious that I had another epic battle beginning with a new device but lucked out with a good random idea that got it working as intended. I noticed it looked too much like your video up to a point.
So I did exactly what you did and was ready to test when I noticed the flashing green “wifi” light (guess that is what it means). I knew that was not normal and wanted to resolve it before testing. I simply removed one battery of the two in there and put it back in. Light stopped blinking and stopped being lit. I did a test and it all worked great. Likely I first used the mobile app and clicked Refresh on the Keypad device interface before testing. I am finding that is always seeming necessary at some point anyways.
I’ve been trying to pair it close to the hub to avoid any distance issues. Never have gotten it to pair regardless of where it is. Thanks for the tip, though!
@TanquerayG - Thanks a bunch for taking the time to reply. Unfortunately for me removing one battery didn’t stop that blinking network light. I even tried swapping out different batteries.
At this point, there might be something unique about my hub or something that only myself (and perhaps 2 others) have the issue and no one else does. I might try firing up my old hub at some point, but honestly I’ve got to put aside this project for the time being.