Automating Pool Light On/Off only for High Heat environment

I am in the US using the V3 hub.

My pool light switch is not conveniently located so I would like to automate it. It is a 400 W Halogen bulb currently controlled by a 15A Leviton toggle switch. It is mounted inside the pool equipment metal electrical box. The switch controls ONLY the light (no motors). I live in the desert so I’m wondering if outdoor Temps (>110 F) will cause any issues.

I am trying to decide between replacing the switch or adding a module. I have been considering

  • Fibaro Z-wave Single Switch 2
  • Enbrighton 46204
  • UltaPro 39354
  • Minoston MS11Z

If anyone has any insight it is much appreciated!

Do not buy fibaro

Is there a specific reason?

Shitty company that refuses to provide support for its products. Also do not work reliably on ST

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You’re going to have issues getting signal out of the box since it’s a metal box. The heat is also going to be an issue, and the distance is potentially an issue.

So I have a couple of different thoughts, but my first question is where exactly does the wiring for that switch run from? If you could put an Inline relay on the wire close to your circuit box in a more sheltered location and not inside that metal box you would have a lot more choices. ( The box isn’t just a signal block: it’s likely to increase temperature by about 20°)

In some cases wires for system of this type even run into the home and out again, so you could even do it inside the home.

So my first thought is can we just get away from that metal box all together?

The wiring is from the main circuit breaker through conduit directly into the box. My only options would be inside either this box or the main breaker box.

I’m pretty sure all of those switches are max rated to 104°F, which just isn’t going to be enough for that environment. The problem is that you get 40°C and the radios fry. :disappointed_relieved:

So I think if it was me I would look at adding a loop to the circuit near the circuit box, maybe even coming in through the wall so the switch is indoors. Most electricians will be able to do this to code, it’s not really any different than adding an additional switch , Then there are no issues with range or temperature and you’ll have a much wider selection of devices. You leave the existing switch in the box as it is, just turned on all the time, and cut the power with automation using the second switch near the house.


Can you replace the 400W bulb with one or more smart bulbs / lights / armature?

Lights with Zigbee or Zwave and leave the switch in the box always on.

Bulbs from Phillips Hue or Ikea Tradfri in new or existing lights.

Or inside or nearby the armature a relay in a plastic wiring Box?

So you leave the metal box unchanged.

Grtn Ben

From everything I’ve read a Halogen bulb can not be replaced with any other bulb. The entire lighting unit would need to be replaced.

Halogen itself isn’t The issue, there are halogen bulbs you can screw into a regular table lamp.

But it’s entirely possible that the fixture you have is a sealed fixture specifically designed for pools (is it underwater?) In which case, yes, it’s unlikely that you can change out the bulb. There are also LEDs of that type.

Also, while we’re on the topic, if the fixture itself is underwater, you can’t use a smart bulb there anyway because it’s very hard to get the radio signals through the water.


Yes. It is underwater which is why I was looking at automating the switch.

Not my first choice but would a wifi switch be an option?

A Wi-Fi switch would be fine, but all the ones I know of for DIY residential use have the same operating temperature range: freezing to about 104°F. Again, it’s about what the radio can tolerate. I did check the specs on the Leviton Wi-Fi switch that works with smartthings and it has that same operating range. You had said 114°F, and again, I suspect it inside the box it’s going to be at least 10° hotter, so that’s the challenge. You probably need something that goes to 60°C and I just don’t know of one.

Is it possible to leave that switch permanently in the on position and install your smart switch in the light cabling running from that box to the light?

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I can’t access the wiring. The only access points to the wires are in the main electrical box or the in pool electrical box.

Hi @Terri_Baker,

Is the bulb inside the pool a PAR56 bulb?

They are used often in outdoor / underwater fixtures.


I found a Milight PAR56 bulb, powered AC 12v or DC 12v-24v, 27 watt, that uses the radio network standard “LoRa” for wireless control.

The led bulb is a RGB-CCT type light. With LoRa you can adjust the bulb colors and brightness underwater. They claim a control range of 50 meters distance with the bulb 50cm below the surface.

It’s not a simple solution, you need the bulb inside the pool, a LoRa controller, integration with SmartThings, but maybe…

And a complete assy i.s.o. of the PAR56 bulb:

Grtn Ben