Automating pool equipment, turning Jandy valves (remote control hot tub) - complete

Hi @mdweiss.

I used this transformer as the power supply for the actuators.

I have a standard GE Zwave switch trip two of these relays (one for each of the valve actuators). Both actuators run off the same transformer but I had to separate the relays to get the valves to work correctly.

The valve actuators have internal limit switches that handle the range of motion, you can set it however you like. I let one of my valves do a full 180 degree turn, and the other one only about 135. Once wired up, is basically works that they turn one way when when the relays are closed by the GE switch, and the other way when the relays are opened.

I don’t have any way to remotely adjust the temp on my pool heater, I just leave it set to 102 (from the panel) and remotely turn it on or off. It does it’s own cutoff and relight after reaching it’s set temp. I’m in Phoenix so no worries about ice here.

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Can you give me some feedback on the wiring diagram below? I first want to automate the on/off for my motor, booster motor, salt water generator and heater and it sounds like you have already done that. Once I get that running I will tackle the valves.

My thinking is that with 4 z-wave switches and 4 relays I can do what I want. The “main” switch will energize the first relay for the motor and swg as well as provide a hot out for the other three switches to ensure that none of the other relays are ever energized if the main pump is off.

These are the relays I am thinking of using:
3 of these for on/off of the components:

And 1 of these to switch between high and low speed on the 2 speed motor:

Fantastic post Chris. I’m trying to do the same - automating two 24v pool valve actuators as well as switching pool pump + heater.

I’d like to know how you connected pool heater. Do you have a dedicated on/off switch for the heater, independent of pool pump? or you have a secondary switch which operates only when pool pump is on?

I’m sourcing z-wave parts currently and discovered this Vision z-wave switch ZL7431US light switch has Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) relay:

User manual doesn’t say anything about relay contacts, but I cracked one open and determined all relay contacts are made available and wired as follows:

  • Relay Normally Closed (NC) ----- YELLOW wire
  • Relay Common (COM) ----- RED wire
  • Relay Normally Open (NO) ----- BLUE wire

The relay itself is Song Chuan’s 892HN-1CH-C. Its coil consumes 200mW according to datasheet, which can be googled easily. I’m pretty sure these relay contacts are isolated so you can switch currents running on different power plane.

The BLACK and WHITE wires are obviously for 120VAC, Hot and Neutral respectively.

And then there’s this GREEN wire used as an external control line. (NOTE: I only tested below in the “01” configuration, which is “To control Light with 1 or 2 Wall Switches” configuration. It was the default setting according to my manual. I suspect the meaning of Green line will change in “02” configuration.)

  • If GREEN wire is left floating open (i.e, not connected to anything), the Z-wave controller interpret ‘On’ state as switching the relay on (i.e., Com connects to NO), and ‘Off’ state as switching relay off (i.e., Com connects to NC).
  • If GREEN wire is connected to 120VAC Hot, the meaning of ‘On’/‘Off’ state flips - now ‘On’ state will turn off relay (i.e., Com connects to NC) and vice versa for ‘Off’ state.

So this GREEN wire can be connected to a ‘manual override’ switch when you have z-wave connectivity problem and you can’t toggle through the hub, which is perfect for pool valve control.

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My pool heater has a physical on/off switch that I just leave in the on position. It’s a 240V heater, just like the pump, so I’m using a GE switch to break one of the legs. When the switch closes, the heater comes on, and vice versa. This switch is independent of the pool pump, so it would be possible for the heater to run when the pool pump is not on.


This is awesome. I am really interested in doing the same setup with my pool equipment. If you don’t mind could you post a wire diagram of your setup?

I’m doing this from memory on a project I finished a year ago, so hopefully this is all right.

The wiring to the pump and the heater is pretty simple. They both run on 240v, so I wired each one like the following to break one leg of the 240v circuit. I also did some examination of the way the 240v breaker was set up so that I was powering the switch with the hot leg that was paired with the neutral bar for other circuits, if that makes sense.

Many won’t recommend this setup because it can give the impression that a circuit is dead with the switch off, when in fact one of the legs is always hot. This is not a recommended practice, but as far as I have found in my googling it’s not against code either. The ideal setup would use a double pole switch to disconnect both legs, but I don’t think there are any smart switches available like this, so this was my next best option. You could probably incorporate the smart switch with a DPST relay to achieve the same effect if desired.

Here’s the wiring setup for the valves. It requires a separate 120vac SPDT relay for each valve. I originally tried to run both valves off of a single relay but the internal limit switches on the valves didn’t work right when I did this, so I separated. Manual says to separate as well.

Thank you very much. So now that you have had this installed for a year, is there anything you would change? Anything you would add?

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I don’t think I would change anything, it’s been working great. I love being able to turn the hot tub on by voice/Google Home and being able to schedule it to turn on using IFTTT/Google Calendar integration.

Sorry I missed your post. When you start talking about two stages I get into unfamiliar territory, never experimented with it. Only thing I see offhand is that I would be hesitant to continually cut and reapply power to smart switches, I don’t think your mesh network would like certain devices being online sometimes and offline other times, might mess with the routing.

Tagging for your expertise

Well as far as what I can contribute I’ll post pics and videos when I get home. For my pool I used a particle photon wifi adriuno type device to control some of the 24 volt jandy valve actuators made by intermatic. I then have since changed out one of the jandys with an electric ball valve cause believe it or not I found that better than a jandy for this particular application. The actuators have adjustable cams that can stop the actuator at set positions but you only have 2 choices with the photon I was able to code it using timing to be able to stop in whatever position I want all based on timing. In my case I needed three positions. I also have it controlling my pool light which is led and changes colors when it is cycled on and off fast which has also allowed me some crude smart color changing Ability. My final plans include upgrading to a variable speed pump that takes speed control inputs from external relays. This will make the photon an all in one for me controlling my valves pump and lights. Currently my pool pump is single speed and on a ge zwave outdoor 240 volt large appliance module. It sounds more difficult than it is as when I started this project I had zero programming experience.

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Could this be hooked to the valve to power and control it?

Hey everyone just reading up on the actuators and how I can add them to my smartthings control. Now that I’ve installed a variable speed pump I need to turn off the water feature or cleaner more often. If I start with a standard 24v plug in transformer, plugged into a zwave outlet, couldn’t I wire the transformer directly to the actuator without the relay in the middle? I can then use smartthings to power the trans/actuator for only the amount of time it takes to move the valve to the stop, then cut power. Only powering for that amount of time for each change. If that isn’t possible can anyone tell me why? Maybe I’m missing the point of the relay. Thanks

Smartthings is not very reliable at scheduling things that need less than a minute precision.

I might agree with that, but its not life or death if something is late a few min, the worst case is some pool water spills for a bit… My real question is why the relay is needed… Can I run the actuator off a 24v transformer direct?

My understanding is that the relay for actuator is used to switch between opening and closing.

There are 3 wires on the actuators. One is common, and the other two control direction. If you apply power to one, the valve turns one way. If you apply power to the other, the valve turns the other way. So the relay acts as the switching mechanism to control valve direction. If you connected one wire directly to the transformer the valve would only go one direction, stop when it hit the limit switch, and never move again. If you connected both, you’d probably burn up the actuator.

For anyone else who is wondering, I haven’t touched this setup in the 2+ years since I installed it, and it’s still working perfectly.