Yeah I’ve found those. In the main switch, there are 3 blacks, which is what the original switch was hooked to that proved 110 volts.
Ok. Just hook up load, line and neutral to the master GE switch and you should be able to control the light physically or with ST.
Ignore all the wires from the other two switches for now. Be sure to use isolate the bare wires just so you won’t get hurt. Does it work?
Edit : don’t forget the ground wire.
Yuppers, can control it with the app and the switch. with the one main GE switch and the other two old single poles still attached.
What is odd to me…is typically neutral wires are grouped together behind the switch in a group of white wires. The switches I took out, only one neutral group was present in the 1st (master) switch. The 1st aux has black wires in a group. I just think I’m dealing with no neutral on this thing, which after reading seems to be not uncommon.
The whole purpose of disconnecting all the other switches from the GE master is so we can confirm the neutral, line hot and load is not coming from the other switches. Or you can check line hot and neutral by disconnecting all the wires from all the switches and with the circuit breaker turn on. You should get 110 from only one black wire.
Correct, it is the one black wire that is in the master switch, that is grouped with a couple of other hots. In the first picture, it’s the one with the wire nut in the bottom left. I omed every wire and ended up having to take out the bulbs in the fixtures because I was picking up resistance through them. I’m going to head to bed and start at it again tomorrow. Thank you for your help everyone.
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That’s normal to have all kind of color wire bundles behind switches in a 3 or 4 ways. As stated by @JDRoberts. US codes generally do not mandate wire colors. Anybody can use anything, and sometimes people just grab the last piece of wire from the box.
It’s not clear of what you can control with the GE master switch. You can turn the bulb on and off or just the indicator led on the switch? And what can’t you control with one of the switch flip to a different position?
One of the switch flip and you can’t control the light bulb but switch led indicator light controllable = load not at the master box or wrong load wire.
One of the switch flip and light bulb and led indicator not controllable = line hot or neutral not at master box.
Here is a reference to a couple of 4 ways wiring worth looking at.
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Right…as far the zwave master switch, turning it on/off turns the lights on, the blue LED works, (I have it set to come on when the light fixture is off), so I know no matter what I do with the other switches the blue light stays on, meaning the I have the right hot at the switch. I think the issue is there really is just no neutral in these other switches. If I’m not mistaken, in the original setup, a neutral wire would not be connected to a standard light switch correct?
Just to make sure : you are not trying to use your “old” aux switched but have replaced them with GE12728? A combination of the old/ regular aux switches and the new zwave master won’t work.
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I would remove both aux switches for now and make sure the master GE is able to control the light bulb by itself first. And be sure not to use a dumb aux switch as advised by @pizzinini.
Thanks guys…I believe I have tried that, but will give it another whirl. At this point, I’m just glad I’ve only hit myself with 110 once.
Don’t worry about neutral at the two aux switch boxes. We can deal with that easily later. For now we just want to know where the line hot, load and the real neutral are located. By your description about the on/off of the light bulb and led indicator. Looks like your load is not located at the master box. Can you confirm with both aux switches disconnect from the master. You can control the indicator led on the switch? If yes then we can move to the next step and try to find the load. If no then we still have to find line hot and neutral.
Edit : and please try not to shock yourself 
Just came across this post… it’s a great diagram for a 5-way switch but the concept is the same as for a 4 way:
Wow, that’s a dandy. I was reading on another site:
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=12497.0
On here they state you tie off the load and line together.
I’m pretty sure this is the issue I’ve got…With this diagram it shows it exactly as I have it. Only problem is that there is no neutral in the AUX boxes that I listed, I confirmed this by ohming it out. So my thought is, I want to just bypass the switch in the middle, the one with the blacks tied together, and the whites on one side and reds on the other. What would I have to wire nut together to make that constant and bypass it? AUX 3 does have a ground at least one that I ran from a nearby location, (which I’m not sure if it will work or not but going to try) As usual, thanks for the help
If you think that is your wiring then it’s bad new. GE smart switches won’t work with this configuration. You need to run an extra wire down to your master switch for neutral or install an Aeon micro at the light fixture.