220v Zigbee extender for Smartthings Multipurpose Sensor

Hey guys

I was wondering whats the latest on this topic. There seems to be endless debates on light bulbs, etc. I just want to extend the range of Smartthing’s own product, the Multipurpose Sensor. I feel like there should be a solid answer/solution for this one…

Are you in Europe or the US? The device selection does vary somewhat.

In either case, almost all mains powered zigbee devices Will act as zigbee repeaters. That includes plug-in pocket sockets, plug-in sensors, in wall relays, etc.

You just have to make sure that it is using the same profile as SmartThings, ZHA 1.2 ( zigbee home automation)

Once you tell us what region you are in, we can suggest some specific devices. :sunglasses:

I’m in a 220v region with a US version of the V2 hub. What’s the go-to easy solution to extend zigbee only for the purpose of connecting ST’s very own devices such as the multipurpose sensor?

Easy solution is the SmartThings branded pocket socket, but it appears to be out of stock at most places right now.

@a4refillpad might know of some alternative brands.

There used to be a mains powered relay from orvibo which was nice because then the socket type didn’t matter, but I haven’t seen that sold for a while.

What do you mean by “pocket” socket? Just ST’s smartplugs ? Given that they are $60-70 in the UK , I just ordered a $20 US version and will test it out - I heard they are 110-220v compatible…

Sorry if that was confusing. In these forums we commonly use the term “pocket socket” for a plug-in module

IMG_4504

To distinguish them from an in wall outlet:

Since so many manufacturers just call them a switch.

That said – – where did you read that they are rated above 120 V? I don’t think that’s true of the US models. There are models from other brands which do have higher maximum ratings, but I don’t think this one. Did you check with support?

Please don’t use them higher than their rating without verifying the specifications from an official source p. A device designed for 120 V when operated on 220 V can short out but not trigger the circuit fault protection on a 220 V circuit, making them very dangerous to operate. :disappointed_relieved:

You may have read that the hub can operate on universal voltage, but that’s because it is using a USB connector. The same is not true of the devices that plug in directly.

I read it here:

And the device that I purchased is this one: (which i assume that’s what the v2 model is)

In terms, of 110v vs 220v, in my experience there is a ton of devices that are multi-voltage, but labelled 110v only – such as some of the Aeotec devices, all the Wemo smart plugs (I have like 10 of them - standard and energy-reading ones) and most Samsung TVs actually. Of course many are truly only 110v. In terms of risks, my thinking is that if this plug is truly 110 only, then it will pop/burn up pretty much immediately - as this is what usually happens when I plug 110v device in 220v. If it’s stays neutral to the touch, working fine for weeks on end, i would assume it’s a compatible 110-220v unit?

If you read the whole thread that you linked to, the person who wrote that was just guessing, and later on in the thread they got an actual response from the company,

“The device you mentioned is rated for use in a 120V application and should only be used that way. It will function, albeit albeit with a much shorter lifespan and an increased chance in causing damage to the device, like it should. However, I must recommend that you remove the device from the current application as soon as you can.”

So the thread that you linked to actually tells you not to use those devices on 220 V.

Plus, that thread is about the first generation, and if you bought them now you are getting the third generation – – it’s not even the same manufacturer. So the ones you bought are not going to be ready to work on 220 V and should not be used on 220 V without a transformer. :disappointed_relieved:

Unfortunately, that is not how it works.

As I mentioned, one of the major problems with operating a device intended for 110 V on a 220 V circuit is that if the device shorts out it may not trigger the ground protection for the 220 V circuit, which means it can severely injure a person who then touches it.

A short can occur at any time in the lifecycle of the device, such as when there happens to be a power surge. So the fact that it works fine for the first day or so doesn’t tell you anything about how safe it will be able to operate after that.