I was wondering whats the latest on this topic. There seems to be endless debates on light bulbs, etc. I just want to extend the range of Smartthing’s own product, the Multipurpose Sensor. I feel like there should be a solid answer/solution for this one…
Since so many manufacturers just call them a switch.
That said – – where did you read that they are rated above 120 V? I don’t think that’s true of the US models. There are models from other brands which do have higher maximum ratings, but I don’t think this one. Did you check with support?
Please don’t use them higher than their rating without verifying the specifications from an official source p. A device designed for 120 V when operated on 220 V can short out but not trigger the circuit fault protection on a 220 V circuit, making them very dangerous to operate.
You may have read that the hub can operate on universal voltage, but that’s because it is using a USB connector. The same is not true of the devices that plug in directly.
And the device that I purchased is this one: (which i assume that’s what the v2 model is)
In terms, of 110v vs 220v, in my experience there is a ton of devices that are multi-voltage, but labelled 110v only – such as some of the Aeotec devices, all the Wemo smart plugs (I have like 10 of them - standard and energy-reading ones) and most Samsung TVs actually. Of course many are truly only 110v. In terms of risks, my thinking is that if this plug is truly 110 only, then it will pop/burn up pretty much immediately - as this is what usually happens when I plug 110v device in 220v. If it’s stays neutral to the touch, working fine for weeks on end, i would assume it’s a compatible 110-220v unit?
If you read the whole thread that you linked to, the person who wrote that was just guessing, and later on in the thread they got an actual response from the company,
“The device you mentioned is rated for use in a 120V application and should only be used that way. It will function, albeit albeit with a much shorter lifespan and an increased chance in causing damage to the device, like it should. However, I must recommend that you remove the device from the current application as soon as you can.”
So the thread that you linked to actually tells you not to use those devices on 220 V.
Plus, that thread is about the first generation, and if you bought them now you are getting the third generation – – it’s not even the same manufacturer. So the ones you bought are not going to be ready to work on 220 V and should not be used on 220 V without a transformer.
As I mentioned, one of the major problems with operating a device intended for 110 V on a 220 V circuit is that if the device shorts out it may not trigger the ground protection for the 220 V circuit, which means it can severely injure a person who then touches it.
A short can occur at any time in the lifecycle of the device, such as when there happens to be a power surge. So the fact that it works fine for the first day or so doesn’t tell you anything about how safe it will be able to operate after that.